Sliding Door Dropped - Any way of adjusting height?

[Plasticman]

gives it dry next week
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[Cruz]

Yeah right! Dry in Lancs

It will be dry until I leave the damn house

[Plasticman]

I used to visit a mate that had a printers , it was way back as he did it the old way with lead blocks anyhow he was rochdale and the works were in the is it 'rossendale valley'? anyhow it was 350 days/yr windy wet cold miserable horrible, he emigrated to Aus, with his Italian wife.
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[Cruz]

Went out at lunch and looked at the stopper with the door closed and there is a few mm's between the stopper and the centre hinge. When closing the door the hinge hits the stopper but when the hinge swings closed it moves back slightly on the runner. Removing the bung affected nothing and the door still ended up in the same place.

[Plasticman]

ok , as its now shut then , there is a small gap between this rubber and the arm part,
go to the front of the slider and remove the oblong rubber (single pozi screw) thaat loctes in the metal reccess in b post. and try again.
the door is basicall loose on the rollers etc and appart from the arm/buffer weve spoke of and this part on the front, there is very little else to prevent the door passing your wing mirror well not quite but you know what I mean.
I would look at this then we can discuss mechanical changes
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[Mickyfin]

Crikey thats out of line, what concernes me is , you say it just happened? well that would mean either bearing failures times 2 or brackets moved.
anyhow , you say it glides open and closed without any problems?
if so then we shall adjust it.
first if you open the door say half open and grab the bottom of the door at front edge ,can you lift the door up much, there should be clearance above the top bearing to allow for upward movement. assuming there is then
you need to remove the trim panal from the slider so you can get to the centre bracket bolts, check these are tight and have not moved.

Now loosen 1 of the 3 bolts on the bottom guide and then just nip it back up, next loosen the other 2 , (dont touch the 2 that are horizontal as these adjust the in/out) now with one hand support the weight of the door and with the other just loosen the 1st one you nipped up and as it loosens keep the hinge down and lift the door say an 1/8" (3mm)for Finland. and then nip the bolt back up , give the other 2 a nip , reason I do it this way is you only have to control one bolt which is easier than messing with all three if you follow, anyhow try the door for up movement as before and see if there is any change, there shoulkd be, now slide it shut, dont worry about the elec contacts yet,
how does it shut,
should be better on the froint edge but the back should be worse if anything, so go nto nthe centre bracket and undo the bolt that you get to through the hole now youve removed the trim and loosen this one, leave it loose whilst you sort the door, slacken the 2 remaining bolts and lift the door a touch and then nip up, try sliding and shutting it,
basically you repeat this to get a balance .
If the door gaps are tapered its due to one either of these two hinges being set wrong, end of the day and assuming its not been re-pannaled badly, then if your swage lines are in line the the gaps should also be parrallel at the same time,
easier to do then write, hope it makes sense , I got work to do now
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Hi Mickey, just wanted to say a MASSIVE THANKS! Your help has proved priceless today. I took the printout with me as the sun was shining, and set about following your instructions to the letter. It looked as though the door had dropped naturally over the last 20 years of use mate is all.

Its now looking a million times better, and all electrics, locks, etc work flawlessly. Happy bunny.

Thanks again mate, I owe you a beer when we finally meet up when Im in the UK at a meet

[Plasticman]

good on you glad its sorted out
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