Club 80-90 Forums

I know mate lol, the new fuel filter is needed as there is no filter under the tank being a Syncro, but the one on the outlet/return pipe Im sure I can remove, but as said, will wait for someone more well informed as myself as this is my first Syncro.

Has all the hallmarks of an air leak somewhere on the carb or the gasket to which it is bolted down.

Cheer Ralph, looks like I will get the carb repair kit from Brickwerks next if the parts I've ordered don't wrk then.

syncro specific 2e4 for power steering set up, the float bowl at the front of the carb is an additional reservoir on the fuel line to the carb so that the carb doesn't experience fuel starvation even when van at mad angles, fiite dto all 1.9 syncros I beleieve
the device on the left of the carb is a manual idle control valve effectively, ensuring that revs rise when approaching stalling and compensating for load when power steering on full lock, these are a bit rare and a bit of an unknown thing as they aren't in Bentley as the yanks didn't have the carb 1.9, so can't really advise on troubleshooting this, SimonTMT has this set up and is probably the best person to advise, Ian Silverbullet has a 1.9 syncro so will also have this set up I think, but his is so early and doesn't have ps so may not have
otherwise your carb is just like a 2e3 and idle control and co settings are the same, Haynes for instructions on that as Bentley doesn't do carb engine

Cheers Aidan, as usual, very helpful advice mate, really appreciated. Im slowly finding my way around the engine now, and have a few new parts on the way from Brickwerks to fit, then I will remove carb strip down, clean, and put back together using the Brickwerks carb repair kit/gaskets etc.

The hesitation appears to go away once the engine is up to temp.

As a side note, I started my engine this morning after depressing the accelerator prior to starting engine, and was amazed that my choke does indeed work. This was the first time I have ever had it working, as I was not aware of activating it from cold by depressing the foot pedal prior to starting. One thing I did notice though, and would like to know how to adjust, when the choke was on, the revs were quite high (No rev counter), I would say from my ear of experience that the choke revs were around 3k rpm, which is far too high. Is it possible to adjust this at all?

the screw sticking out facing you towards the bottom of the carb is the idle speed adjuster
wbx tends to sound as if reving higher than it is, digital timing gun with tacho is useful tool if no rev counter fitted, used to be available from Draper at reasonable cost but nla as far as I know, modern engines don't need timing

cold one press and release activates the choke
really cold two presses of pedal (second one squirts more fuel to prime)
hot don't touch the pedal
you need the glovebox handbook as well really

Thanks again mate, I do have the Glove box handbook, and slowly translating it to English as its in Finnish.

the new fuel filter is needed as there is no filter under the tank being a Syncro

Big filter behind bracket n/s of tank (on Djs and MVs anyway)

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That is hunting in the video, not classically, but it is is weak hunting.

Either choke not on enough for the current temp, or if up to temp, then idle needs richening... that's all

Of course, a small air leak could cause that weakness or leaky exhaust, but from reading back a bit, probably fuel levels, or choke settings

its does sound lean. a simple fuel can feed would bypass all the supply system if its still there then look at air leaks or settings on the carb. if it cures it then supply fault.

that after market filter looks empty to me in the vid.

have you done a gas test?? may only be too lean and need adjustments.

Cheers guys, I have a few more things to check, and some new parts on their way from Brickwerks, so will take it from there, and try and track it down.

Yes, the after market fuel filter does look low hence my thinking that the fuel pump is either crap, and the push rod is worn.

filter should be before pump on a DG
big one in rear wheel arch is for fuel injection only

Cheers mate, so the one at the back of my carb on the return pipe can be removed then I guess. Will sort that out soon. Cheers