syncroscimon can you please.......
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Re: syncroscimon can you please.......
Sorry to revive an old thread but i intend to fit a sterling effort soon and i want to get all the bits ordered. I have yet more questions: -
Have you fitted an uprated alternator, thinking about it i have no idea what mine is rated at, as it’s a TDi conversion?
Where is it best to mount the thing? near the engine battery or the leisure batteries (mine are at almost opposite ends)?
Those shunt things, do you only need to get them if you get the fancy monitoring system you have or will i need them for the basic set up?
Does it give an idea of the other stuff you need in the instructions?
What Amps rating Sterling charger did you go for, i see there are several available?
Thanks everso Simon, sorry to see you are selling you camper.
Have you fitted an uprated alternator, thinking about it i have no idea what mine is rated at, as it’s a TDi conversion?
Where is it best to mount the thing? near the engine battery or the leisure batteries (mine are at almost opposite ends)?
Those shunt things, do you only need to get them if you get the fancy monitoring system you have or will i need them for the basic set up?
Does it give an idea of the other stuff you need in the instructions?
What Amps rating Sterling charger did you go for, i see there are several available?
Thanks everso Simon, sorry to see you are selling you camper.
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Re: syncroscimon can you please.......
Hi Guzzi,
Glad to hear you are still working on the Syncro. I am sure that the right person will come along for my syncro, had someone view today.
The Sterling I would go for now is the AB1280 80 amp. This will work with the 90amp alternator and probably with the smaller ones.
have the 150amp version which pulls upto 115amps from the 90 amp alternator, which is still the original 1992 VW fitted one.
It is better to have the Sterling closer to the Alternator.
The wiring is easy.
1. Mount Sterling.
2. Disconnect alternator wiring and connect Sterling "Alternator input" to Alternator with 100 amp fuse and 25mm cable.
3. Connect Sterling "Start" output to the wires you disconnected from the alternator using 25mm cable. This is now how the vehicle gets its 12v and charges the starter battery. The Sterling is wired inline from the alternator to the wiring loom.
4. Connect the Sterling "Domestic" output to your leisure batteries with 25mm cable.
Therefore you will see that you need two 25mm cables to connect the Sterling to the Alternator, but only 1 to the batteries, so you will use less wire the closer the Sterling is to the engine. But cable is cheap and 25mm cable is super low resistance so you could mount the sterling anywhere.
The shunts that come with the control panel are an expensive luxury that allows you to see exactly what is happening, from battery charge, to the amp usage of the vehicle to alternator output. I use it to judge when the batteries are charged sufficiently for the electrical demands until next engine start.
I hardly ever use the hook up as if you are driving the vehicle for more than an hour it will charge the batteries. Hookup is usually free now, so I will use it then. I have the 30 amp one that has separate circuits for the starter battery and the leisure batteries.
Hope this helps.
Wiring up the shunts is by far the most complex part. The shunts work by measuring the voltage drop across the shunt which is of a known resistance. From this an amperage is calculated.
Simon.
Glad to hear you are still working on the Syncro. I am sure that the right person will come along for my syncro, had someone view today.
The Sterling I would go for now is the AB1280 80 amp. This will work with the 90amp alternator and probably with the smaller ones.
have the 150amp version which pulls upto 115amps from the 90 amp alternator, which is still the original 1992 VW fitted one.
It is better to have the Sterling closer to the Alternator.
The wiring is easy.
1. Mount Sterling.
2. Disconnect alternator wiring and connect Sterling "Alternator input" to Alternator with 100 amp fuse and 25mm cable.
3. Connect Sterling "Start" output to the wires you disconnected from the alternator using 25mm cable. This is now how the vehicle gets its 12v and charges the starter battery. The Sterling is wired inline from the alternator to the wiring loom.
4. Connect the Sterling "Domestic" output to your leisure batteries with 25mm cable.
Therefore you will see that you need two 25mm cables to connect the Sterling to the Alternator, but only 1 to the batteries, so you will use less wire the closer the Sterling is to the engine. But cable is cheap and 25mm cable is super low resistance so you could mount the sterling anywhere.
The shunts that come with the control panel are an expensive luxury that allows you to see exactly what is happening, from battery charge, to the amp usage of the vehicle to alternator output. I use it to judge when the batteries are charged sufficiently for the electrical demands until next engine start.
I hardly ever use the hook up as if you are driving the vehicle for more than an hour it will charge the batteries. Hookup is usually free now, so I will use it then. I have the 30 amp one that has separate circuits for the starter battery and the leisure batteries.
Hope this helps.
Wiring up the shunts is by far the most complex part. The shunts work by measuring the voltage drop across the shunt which is of a known resistance. From this an amperage is calculated.
Simon.
1991 16" DJ (sold)
2006 Subaru Outback 3.0R
2010 Yamaha Ténéré
2000 KTM LC400
2006 Subaru Outback 3.0R
2010 Yamaha Ténéré
2000 KTM LC400
Re: syncroscimon can you please.......
Thanks again Simon.
That makes i much clearer so i can order all the bits next weekend (probably get the Sterling thing from ebay)
I have been using my Syncro for some time and am now on the first lot of mods from my experiences
I think you will miss your syncro
That makes i much clearer so i can order all the bits next weekend (probably get the Sterling thing from ebay)
I have been using my Syncro for some time and am now on the first lot of mods from my experiences
I think you will miss your syncro
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Re: syncroscimon can you please.......
guzzi wrote:
I think you will miss your syncro
Yes I will, but now I am into my middle age I am de-cluttering. We are using the syncro less as a family, so time to make an adjustment. Not sure what will follow. I have thought about single cabs, KTM 990 Adventures, Renault 4's and Beetles. Not sure yet.
The hardest thing was making the decision, now I have got used to the idea and am looking forward to new things.
This is where my heart is really at the mo.

Simon.
1991 16" DJ (sold)
2006 Subaru Outback 3.0R
2010 Yamaha Ténéré
2000 KTM LC400
2006 Subaru Outback 3.0R
2010 Yamaha Ténéré
2000 KTM LC400
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Re: syncroscimon can you please.......
If you have an alternator that is between 85 amps and 125 amps and if the run of wire (depends on where the unit is being fitted) is between 0 - 1.5m you have to use 35mm sq wire and if you have a run between 1.5 - 4m you will need to up it to 50mm sq wire. I fitted my unit behind the drivers seat on my Westy fixed to the sink unit as my leisure battery is underneath the seat and just went for the thick cable on all three runs where the thicker cable is needed to be double safe. You will need the bigger terminal connectors too and all of that lot on top of your unit mounts up to quite alot.
I just thought it was worth a mention and hope it is of some help.
Like a fool I forgot to take the existing feed from the alternator to the starter battery off and I only found out recently when my engine was plugged into a computer that I was getting quite a big drain from it on the starter battery. I took that lead off and no fault codes came back so that was handy to find out, and also remember to take the existing split charger cable off your leisure battery too. If you are using the Westy loom there are three wires going to the terminal, two reds (one thick one slightly thinner) and a yellow and red wire. The yellow and red wire is your 240v charger when on hookup, the small red is for the ebber and sink/fridge unit electrics I think and the thicker red one is the split charger. Just wrap some tape round it and label the wire as a back up in the unlikely event the Sterling ever gives up.
jed
I just thought it was worth a mention and hope it is of some help.
Like a fool I forgot to take the existing feed from the alternator to the starter battery off and I only found out recently when my engine was plugged into a computer that I was getting quite a big drain from it on the starter battery. I took that lead off and no fault codes came back so that was handy to find out, and also remember to take the existing split charger cable off your leisure battery too. If you are using the Westy loom there are three wires going to the terminal, two reds (one thick one slightly thinner) and a yellow and red wire. The yellow and red wire is your 240v charger when on hookup, the small red is for the ebber and sink/fridge unit electrics I think and the thicker red one is the split charger. Just wrap some tape round it and label the wire as a back up in the unlikely event the Sterling ever gives up.
jed
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Re: syncroscimon can you please.......
syncrosimon wrote:guzzi wrote:
I think you will miss your syncro
Yes I will, but now I am into my middle age I am de-cluttering. We are using the syncro less as a family, so time to make an adjustment. Not sure what will follow. I have thought about single cabs, KTM 990 Adventures, Renault 4's and Beetles. Not sure yet.
The hardest thing was making the decision, now I have got used to the idea and am looking forward to new things.
This is where my heart is really at the mo.
Simon.
Been there Simon, did the bike / quad thing. Middle age bruises take so much longer to go away so I did the Hayabusa thing and moved to the 1150RT thing ..... Did Beetles too but have settled on Mercedes and hotels!
syncropaddy
One Syncro, five Mercedes Benzs and a rocket ship
One Syncro, five Mercedes Benzs and a rocket ship
Re: syncroscimon can you please.......
Great stuff again, thanks both. I have to say the old electrics is what i am least interested in and have the least knowledge of so i am not really looking forward to it!
Re the KTM, i can see where you are coming from but i cant see mrs Guzzi on the back of an adventurer for very long to be honest! (although she doesn’t mind the odd jaunt on my bike)
Great looking bikes and about the only big trialie that people agree trumps the GS as far as i can tell, i know which of the two i would rather pick up after a tumble! and i believe the early ones where proper carb induction, none of this new fangled fuel injection...... frankly its a fad that will never catch on!!
Now, on the bl##dy electrics, i haven’t even connected up the sterling mains charger i brought last year!...... i really hate electrics.......
Re the KTM, i can see where you are coming from but i cant see mrs Guzzi on the back of an adventurer for very long to be honest! (although she doesn’t mind the odd jaunt on my bike)
Great looking bikes and about the only big trialie that people agree trumps the GS as far as i can tell, i know which of the two i would rather pick up after a tumble! and i believe the early ones where proper carb induction, none of this new fangled fuel injection...... frankly its a fad that will never catch on!!
Now, on the bl##dy electrics, i haven’t even connected up the sterling mains charger i brought last year!...... i really hate electrics.......
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Re: syncroscimon can you please.......
Good points all,
However with the control panel I can see that the high output bulk charge really only lasts for the first 15 minutes charge faze. After the 2.5 minute rest to charge the starter battery the output is greatly reduced. I have watched the temperature of the battery terminals and have never seen a rise of more than 1 deg Celsius. I therefore think that the 25mm cable or 35mm cable is plenty and will not heat the cable even over longer lengths. Better safe than sorry though.
Here is carburator KTM 950 on UK longest fjord. Brave man.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxPcyKB14Mc" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
However with the control panel I can see that the high output bulk charge really only lasts for the first 15 minutes charge faze. After the 2.5 minute rest to charge the starter battery the output is greatly reduced. I have watched the temperature of the battery terminals and have never seen a rise of more than 1 deg Celsius. I therefore think that the 25mm cable or 35mm cable is plenty and will not heat the cable even over longer lengths. Better safe than sorry though.
Here is carburator KTM 950 on UK longest fjord. Brave man.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxPcyKB14Mc" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
1991 16" DJ (sold)
2006 Subaru Outback 3.0R
2010 Yamaha Ténéré
2000 KTM LC400
2006 Subaru Outback 3.0R
2010 Yamaha Ténéré
2000 KTM LC400
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Re: syncroscimon can you please.......
Yeh I agree but I think (dont quote me on this as I dont really 100% know) the thicker cable is due to the amps being passed through it. It costs quite abit to get all this set up so I wanted it bob on (even though I left the other cable on
) and here is a bit from the manual incase anyone might find it of interest when working out runs etc,

jed


jed
Re: syncroscimon can you please.......
Ah! Furneux Pelham.... Sunday Roast a few years ago, here on Syncro
http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic ... ford#p6452
Well, I hope the enduro KTMs are built better than their Moto ones... now been sold on (for peanuts) for some TMs, built properly and performing well...
Lucky that's a carbed KTM down the ford, a KTM injection would've packed up before it even got there from what I've seen, let alone a handlebar cap fracturing (unheard of on any other make)..
http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic ... ford#p6452
Well, I hope the enduro KTMs are built better than their Moto ones... now been sold on (for peanuts) for some TMs, built properly and performing well...
Lucky that's a carbed KTM down the ford, a KTM injection would've packed up before it even got there from what I've seen, let alone a handlebar cap fracturing (unheard of on any other make)..

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1.9TD Syncro Doka / Syncro Kastenwagen / 16" Kombi Camper
Syncronaut No. 1
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Re: syncroscimon can you please.......
HarryMann wrote:Ah! Furneux Pelham.... Sunday Roast a few years ago, here on Syncro
http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic ... %20.#p6452
Well, I hope the enduro KTMs are built better than their Moto ones... now been sold on (for peanuts) for some TMs, built properly and performing well...
Lucky that's a carbed KTM down the ford, a KTM injection would've packed up before it even got there from what I've seen, let alone a handlebar cap fracturing (unheard of on any other make)..
Agreed, the late model 950's which are carbed are the best, the 990's from 2007 on are injection and not as good.
When you have taken apart a the few KTM's I have owned and seen the build quality compared to anything else you would not go anywhere else. Spares are very well priced.
1991 16" DJ (sold)
2006 Subaru Outback 3.0R
2010 Yamaha Ténéré
2000 KTM LC400
2006 Subaru Outback 3.0R
2010 Yamaha Ténéré
2000 KTM LC400
Re: syncroscimon can you please.......
Just a wee naughty dig Simon
am sure they build their Enduros well, but they sure got something wrong with the 350 Moto bikes last year... ball, eye, off. Not that you'd catch me on a Moto of course

The 80-90 Tech Wikipedia Your 1st port of call

1.9TD Syncro Doka / Syncro Kastenwagen / 16" Kombi Camper
Syncronaut No. 1
Re: syncroscimon can you please.......
Hi Simon,syncrosimon wrote:Hi Guzzi,
Glad to hear you are still working on the Syncro. I am sure that the right person will come along for my syncro, had someone view today.
The Sterling I would go for now is the AB1280 80 amp. This will work with the 90amp alternator and probably with the smaller ones.
have the 150amp version which pulls upto 115amps from the 90 amp alternator, which is still the original 1992 VW fitted one.
It is better to have the Sterling closer to the Alternator.
The wiring is easy.
1. Mount Sterling.
2. Disconnect alternator wiring and connect Sterling "Alternator input" to Alternator with 100 amp fuse and 25mm cable.
3. Connect Sterling "Start" output to the wires you disconnected from the alternator using 25mm cable. This is now how the vehicle gets its 12v and charges the starter battery. The Sterling is wired inline from the alternator to the wiring loom.
4. Connect the Sterling "Domestic" output to your leisure batteries with 25mm cable.
Therefore you will see that you need two 25mm cables to connect the Sterling to the Alternator, but only 1 to the batteries, so you will use less wire the closer the Sterling is to the engine. But cable is cheap and 25mm cable is super low resistance so you could mount the sterling anywhere.
The shunts that come with the control panel are an expensive luxury that allows you to see exactly what is happening, from battery charge, to the amp usage of the vehicle to alternator output. I use it to judge when the batteries are charged sufficiently for the electrical demands until next engine start.
I hardly ever use the hook up as if you are driving the vehicle for more than an hour it will charge the batteries. Hookup is usually free now, so I will use it then. I have the 30 amp one that has separate circuits for the starter battery and the leisure batteries.
Hope this helps.
Wiring up the shunts is by far the most complex part. The shunts work by measuring the voltage drop across the shunt which is of a known resistance. From this an amperage is calculated.
Simon.
Having just stripped out my van, i'm now thinking about a Sterling set up. Have you got any advice on how to choose the right model?
You've suggested the 80 amp version but I notice a some on here have gone for the 160 amp.
Electrics are really not my area and there's so much kit out there it would be easy to under estimate my needs and get something with no grunt or indeed, go the other way and over spend on it
At a guess my requirements are to run a compressor fridge, Stereo, lighting, D2 Eberspacher, phone/laptop chargers for about 3/4 days away from mains. I'd like to get away with 2 leisure batteries if I can.
Thanks in advance.
Jamie

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Re: syncroscimon can you please.......
I have a 50amp one and 2 80ah batteries, and find this fine. I have stayed parked in one place for 3 days, with all the above goodies you mentioned running. Noticed no drop in power, and after a 1 1/2 hour drive home batteries were fully charged again.
A sterling won't help you when your parked up, you just need to size your batteries right for your needs. A sterling will help if you are moving on every couple days, as it will charge them up pretty quick.
I was going to try to do without mains charger, but have worked out that if I park up in very hot weather for four days, my batteries will be nearly flat, due to fridge being on more. So I'm fitting a main charger as well
Lloyd
A sterling won't help you when your parked up, you just need to size your batteries right for your needs. A sterling will help if you are moving on every couple days, as it will charge them up pretty quick.
I was going to try to do without mains charger, but have worked out that if I park up in very hot weather for four days, my batteries will be nearly flat, due to fridge being on more. So I'm fitting a main charger as well
Lloyd
Time is a drug. Too much of it kills you
Re: syncroscimon can you please.......
Cheers Lloydy,lloydy wrote:I have a 50amp one and 2 80ah batteries, and find this fine. I have stayed parked in one place for 3 days, with all the above goodies you mentioned running. Noticed no drop in power, and after a 1 1/2 hour drive home batteries were fully charged again.
A sterling won't help you when your parked up, you just need to size your batteries right for your needs. A sterling will help if you are moving on every couple days, as it will charge them up pretty quick.
I was going to try to do without mains charger, but have worked out that if I park up in very hot weather for four days, my batteries will be nearly flat, due to fridge being on more. So I'm fitting a main charger as well
Lloyd
I can't seem to find a 50amp one on the Sterling website. Did you get it off fleabay? And , if you don't mind me asking, how much has it cost you so far to 'power up'?
