CovKid wrote:Your best bet would be to go hunt out a VW spares graveyard and do some comparing. Had to do that in my case. Ideally you want a WBX lump and type1 lump side by side and look at the differences which whilst subtle will be various. I may be the nearest and certainly the first to try this kind of conversion but you have a lot to suss out in going as far as you're going and you'll need to start with a couple of blocks and spot the differences for starters. Can't see you'll do it any other way fella. Its sure possible but by no means easy and you have to weigh that up against fitting a more modern and dare I say it, efficient modern engine of which there are many.
My type1 was also special, from line bored upwards but that was far easier in a crewcab. If I was doing it today, on a camper, I don't think I'd go that route to be honest but if you're determined, go compare blocks and do some measurements as well as sums - it my not stack up in the end with all the time and effort involved, particularly when a scooby might be a better bet these days. A sooped up bug engine will pull for sure (can vouch for that) but given the room you'll have and adaptation needed, it would make more sense to embark on something much easier to fit and more matched.
As a footnote, I used to haul logs in mine no prob (full load at that) but it was HEAVY on fuel even unloaded. Thats another side to this that you'll struggle to guess at and it could dampen your enthusiasm very quickly...It was another project I tackled that everyone said couldn't be done and it was fun to drive but I honestly think things have moved on in terms of technology and that engine would be much happier pushing something a whole lot lighter, tuned or not. If you just want the challenge then fine but its not a perfect solution given the wealth of options now. The cam won't match for starters. I had to do a lot of research to get the right one for that application and consult with a guy who was a professional track racer and we did so many calculations in the process involving tougher and non-standard length pushrods as well as valve geometry measurements that drove me nuts. A sporty bug engine isn't designed for getting a heavy object like a T25 moving. Theres a fair bit of science behind it all and if it wasn't built from the bottom up to do the job demanded of it, its akin to putting a ferrari engine in a steam roller. Power is one thing but it needs to be in the right place. Weight forms a big part of that equation so its not just the plumbing .
Why would I put a WBX and a Type 1 next to eachother? My T25 has a 1600 air cooled CT engine from the factory. The CT is, near as makes differnce, a type 1 engine. I'm not considering a WBX motor or a modern water pumper. I am staying air cooled, and the toss up is between a 2 litre type 4 engine and a 2.1 litre type 1 engine.
I appreciate what you are saying, there are better more reliable engines out there, but I want to keep it air cooled and period. Too many Japanese powered T25's out there, and I would like to see some gentle "jsut for a laugh" drag strip at Santa Pod with it and as such, staying VW is for me important.
The engine is not a race engine from a light Bug, it is an offroading engine from a heavyweight mud plugging offroader. The power and torque are low down, it's designed for pulling hard at low revs.
Fuel economy is utterly utterly pants anyway, a small 1600 pushing around that weight is useless. I have an LPG kit to put on anyway, so that will help.
My question is just that of tinwear, does the CT pancake tinwear fir a standard type one lump? Are there any lugs on the CT case casting not present on a type one that are required for fitment?
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