HELP PLEASE T25 CUTTING OUT 2.1 DJ ENGINE

[HarryMann]

First, have you disconnected the AFM, cleaned all the contacts (fine wire wool or stiff brass brush)and refitted it?

Check the potentiometer track on the AFM is not excessively worn at one position.

Though it does sound very like Ken's ECU symptons...

[golfg60]

hi just put an air flow meter on it fingers crossed .
the difference between mine and kens is his would not start.
mine does start just runs lumpy and if i try to pull off it stops.
and after 10-20 mins runs fine when started again
thanks for all your help going out in the van now
will let you know how i get on.
jason

[HarryMann]

and after 10-20 mins runs fine when started again

Think that sounds like Kens though

Good luck

[golfg60]

thanks harry ive got a ecu coming fingers crossed just in case
cheers jason

[golfg60]

BALLS
so its not the afm who,s got a box of matches and some fuel
go all the way to melton parked up all was fine thought i would
start her just to check all was fine but NO!
still doing it starts but you cant rev it, it cuts out
came back an hour later and all was fine and got me home to nottingham.
and is still starting and running fine .
so looks like a ecu next to try but if its not that what do i do?
thanks jason

[HarryMann]

Pray it's the ecu I think...

A long shot, but you could try repositioning the ecu even a little way, or directing some fresh air onto it somehow..

As I said, a longshot until you get replacement ecu..

===

If that doesn't fix it, let's review the Wiki entry for 'Vanagon Syncdrome' shall we..

[syncrosimon]

I would check the following.

Coil HT plug for signs of coil failure, could be cracked or with residue.

Check that the fuel pump relay is working. When you switch the engine off the temp in the engine bay rises as there is no airflow through the to cool it, and the increase in temp can cause intermittent failures.

Have you changed your temp 2 sensor for the ecu. Can cause hot start problems.

Also could be your fuel pressure regulator. If when hot it is failing and you have no residual pressure left in the system then starting will be harder. You can get a fuel pressure gauge on ebay for 16 quid. This will show your pump is working, your fuel regulator is working, and that you have residual pressure. If one of your injectors is weeping it will flood the engine and cause staring problems. (would not explain stumbling after start up(but a knackered regulator would))

If your van is an auto, could be the no start if not in park switch.

This thread might be some help.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... g+problems" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... hlight=hot" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;



Good luck.

[HarryMann]

Thanks Simon, that sounds nice and logical, and thorough, so will add that to the relevant Wiki topics

[Aidan]

if it starts and runs ok but won't drive then it must be to do with variable inputs

ie throttle body switch must be working, if it's not then ecu doesn't know difference between idle and open throttle

afm signals - ecu needs to know how much air coming in and what temp it is - temp1 is in afm

hall signal - ecu needs to know revs/position of rotor arm

temp2 - what temp engine is


or a controller that's intermittant eg a relay (fuel pump relay) or a breaking down component that can't provide full delivery eg king lead, coil or fuel pump

or ecu which is looking favourite from the heat cycle failure mode