Club 80-90 Forums

billy739 wrote:try spinning the dizzy slowly with the engine running at idle , until it reaches the higest running speed.

I done that and the my TDC mark went to 5degs BTDC which is too advanced, it needs to be 5degs ATDC

Cheers any suggests i will try

Don't give up now mate - you've come so far...

I know it is frustrating but the benefits you will get when it is running and you can use will be more than worth it

Rebuilding the engine isn't actually that difficult (albeit I can't get mine running at the minute )...

Stick with it - think of all the stuff you've learnt...

but if you leave it running at the new timing setting did it overheat?

What I suggest is to take the airflaps out completly. You only have 45 degrees of movement in them which is wrong anyway so something can't be right in there somewhere. There's no way low oil flow or wrongly adjusted timing can make an engine overheat as much as yours is. Lack of airflow can and I'm sticking by my ideas that there is something not right in the way the air is being delivered through the engine tinware.

billy739 wrote:but if you leave it running at the new timing setting did it overheat?

Yes it did

orangebooboobearcrew wrote:Don't give up now mate - you've come so far...

I know it is frustrating but the benefits you will get when it is running and you can use will be more than worth it

Rebuilding the engine isn't actually that difficult (albeit I can't get mine running at the minute )...

Stick with it - think of all the stuff you've learnt...

Thanks for the kind words of encouragement mate, its just that its been a year now

VWCamperfan wrote:What I suggest is to take the airflaps out completly. You only have 45 degrees of movement in them which is wrong anyway so something can't be right in there somewhere. There's no way low oil flow or wrongly adjusted timing can make an engine overheat as much as yours is. Lack of airflow can and I'm sticking by my ideas that there is something not right in the way the air is being delivered through the engine tinware.

Im gonna have another go tomorrow and I will take the fan housing off and check for blockages and all that. The 45degs for the colling flaps is more like 60. But thats def all it could go. There is no way that there is 90 deg movment. i can see the flaps in their correct position by looking through the sparkplug holes in the tinware. The left is down and the right flap is up, which is correct.

I had the oil dipstick sump plate off and either this is very poor workmanship or I have some serious metal fatigue. The hole inside that leads to the sump is a really odd shape and is sharp snd lookd like someone has wacked it with a hammer and bolster.

Hmmm... From what you say the flaps seem to be in the correct position (the left one being down is correct as it directs some air through the oil cooler).
When the engine is running, if you move the rubber bung in the spark plug hole out a bit, do you get air blowing through the hole? (should do hopefully!). This will at least tell you there is air getting to the important bits!
One thing does spring to mind though (you're not going to like this!). The airflow comes from the fan, over the top of the cylinders, round the front of the engine to the underside and over the lover half of the cylinders and out the back. Now, between the cylinders is a strip of horizontal metal designed to keep the upper and lower air seperate. If this is missing, the cooling air won't go round the back, it will take a shortcut through them and then out, missing the rear cylinders. Not saying this is the problem but it's very easy to end up with this part at the end of a job and wonder where it goes! Trouble is... It's a right pain to get to and if you take the tinware off to see if this is there, and it is, I won't be to popular!
But if it isn't...

Ps. The airflow from under the engine when it's running... Is this air coming out from underneath hot when the engine begins to overheat?

VWCamperfan wrote:

Ps. The airflow from under the engine when it's running... Is this air coming out from underneath hot when the engine begins to overheat?

It does but not as much as I would expect. And yes the air coming out of the under clyinder tinware is hot, blowing towards the back of the bus

Ill have another good look tomorrow

Cheers

Just spoke to elite VW, he recons I have probably burnt a hole in a piston. He said that the fan should not be hot or even warm and it sounds like heat is transfering through a piston to con rods and into the crankshalft.

1200 quid for a recon with fitting

Anyone know anywhere cheaper?

cheers

Not these days unless you find a good S/H one and fit it yourself.

albertramsbottom wrote:Just spoke to elite VW, he recons I have probably burnt a hole in a piston. He said that the fan should not be hot or even warm and it sounds like heat is transfering through a piston to con rods and into the crankshalft.

1200 quid for a recon with fitting

Anyone know anywhere cheaper?

cheers

if you think its blown a hole in a piston then best to do a compression test to check this ,should be about 7bar , only takes a little longer than changing the plugs , , check crankcase breather pipe - is it blowing heavily ?,
couple 2.0L engines locally one in a breakers that I was thinking of buying for my MK1 GP buggy but ended up with a re-con 1.6

famous phil wrote:

albertramsbottom wrote:Just spoke to elite VW, he recons I have probably burnt a hole in a piston. He said that the fan should not be hot or even warm and it sounds like heat is transfering through a piston to con rods and into the crankshalft.

1200 quid for a recon with fitting

Anyone know anywhere cheaper?

cheers

if you think its blown a hole in a piston then best to do a compression test to check this ,should be about 7bar , only takes a little longer than changing the plugs , , check crankcase breather pipe - is it blowing heavily ?,
couple 2.0L engines locally one in a breakers that I was thinking of buying for my MK1 GP buggy but ended up with a re-con 1.6

Time to give up. i have allways thought it was terminal. If I would have had somwhere to do it I would have reconed it myself. Unfortunatly I live in a flat and the van is parked at the university that I work at. Not suitable for engine replacment.

Just booked in with elite VW, coming to get it on Monday

Tried everything

Replaced missing tinware
Replaced tinware seal
Removed and cleaned fan housing
Removed and clean oil cooler
Replaced oil cooler seals
Checked cooling flaps and return spring
fresh 20/50 mineral oil
New oil filter
New Strainer and gaskets
Checked oil pressure valve
Sorted out the timing
Good flow of air around the cylinders and out the back of the van
Very clean fins (one cylinderhead new)
Replaced sparkplug grommets
Replaced grommet for oil pressure sender
Replaced oil pressure sender

Replaced engine

Compression check ?

No compression test but the vans really well, it pulls and starts tiny turn of the key and has just passed its MOT and the emissions where fine

I am looking at the tinware diagram on the wiki and cant work out whether I have tinware piece no.4 and where it goes. I thought to was the peice that hugs the bottom of the left clyinder, between the push rod tubes and the head. I do have this peice and the one for the right-hand cylinder. But on the diagram there doesnt seem to be a right hand one, which makes me think that I might not have it.

Where is this peice located?

Cheers https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/ ... urn false;

Just had another fiddle in desparation before I spend 1200 quid.

Ran it for five and reved it every now and then. Checked the timing again. Pulled of the rubber gromet of cylinder two and air rushed out of the hole. Turned engin off and pulled the sparkplug holder out and burned myself on the bakerlite holder. Thats how hot the cylinder is!!

Pulled dipstick and oil was cold. and mean no heat at all

Cheers