Fitting Bluebird customs Rock 'n Roll bed
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Re: Fitting Bluebird customs Rock 'n Roll bed
Thanks for the tips, I was just a bit reluctant to drill the bulkhead.. I did and it's all good. I kind of wish I went for this one now, http://www.volkswares.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; instead, as it doesn't have the added weight of boards.
Re: Fitting Bluebird customs Rock 'n Roll bed
Not much info on the company on the websitekp73 wrote:Thanks for the tips, I was just a bit reluctant to drill the bulkhead.. I did and it's all good. I kind of wish I went for this one now, http://www.volkswares.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; instead, as it doesn't have the added weight of boards.
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CovKid
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Re: Fitting Bluebird customs Rock 'n Roll bed
Here goes - DIY any-width heavy duty rock n roll bed. Welded last night and painted today. This is for those that want something beefier than wooden or aluminium based beds that will hold passengers securely in back, provides maximum storage space, and won't fall to bits with use.
Could WIKI this with full dimensions etc if anyone interested?
Horizontal bars don't bend (even with my weight) as they're heavy guage box steel (had to compromise weight to get required strength) but the rest is angle iron - all galvanised as thats all I had to hand and orginal hinges from my old MDF bed.
It bolts down to bulkhead with spreader plates on reverse so won't be going anywhere and because its full width, gives added protection to passengers in a side swipe (those horizontal box bars are SERIOUSLY heavyweight). You could use lighter guage steel for those if you added support struts but I have tank underneath so wanted space clear. If you have no tank, you gain a lot of storage space with this design!
Note: leaving back open makes it much easier to fit than a wooden one which has to be cut to fit exactly. You can take the whole seat further back, simply by grinding the ends off the angle iron at rear and repositioning hinges. This one sits an inch back from sliding door opening - ample.
I left front open as I'm fitting a timber frame in there with access to a bolt which locks seat in place when its up, but you could close it off if you wanted to. For reference, horizontal bars are 155.5 cm, butting up to angle iron on ends, whole seat sits flush with rear loading area. Width (at bottom) sits snugly between each side of the van with the slope of the van sides allowing for full hinge movement. It could easily be reduced in width to fit any scenario. I used Marcle Leisure hinges with the stop pin ground off. http://www.marcle-leisure.co.uk/informa ... hinges.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; but any rock n roll hinges will work - you just make mounting lugs to suit. Uprights are box section.
The full width angle iron at back (leant back slightly to match angle of rear bulkhead) was added to provide more fixing points to bulkhead and just clears seat belt mounts nicely, but not actually essential. Now waiting for it to dry so I can fix it in place. Fastening for rear bolt on hinges was made with a short stub of angle iron welded in place. Whole thing painted (rustoleum naturally) to tie it all together visually although most of it won't show when its in place and all cushions on it. Build time, 3 hours and all steel cut with an angle grinder to save time.
Base and back to be made - still deciding best way to make that and maintain strength - probably a recycled lightweight bunk bed frame.
The tank sits about 6" below so the intention is to create a wooden recess under seat base for storage and access to tank controls when required.
My eternal thanks to my friend Gordon (an industrial welder by trade) for helping me build this and solving all the problems we encountered with respect to the hinge movement, as we went along. No way could I have done this so quickly without his help. The pattern is however here now if anyone wants to build their own. Must mention Angie, as she supplied the tea!
.
Could WIKI this with full dimensions etc if anyone interested?
Horizontal bars don't bend (even with my weight) as they're heavy guage box steel (had to compromise weight to get required strength) but the rest is angle iron - all galvanised as thats all I had to hand and orginal hinges from my old MDF bed.
It bolts down to bulkhead with spreader plates on reverse so won't be going anywhere and because its full width, gives added protection to passengers in a side swipe (those horizontal box bars are SERIOUSLY heavyweight). You could use lighter guage steel for those if you added support struts but I have tank underneath so wanted space clear. If you have no tank, you gain a lot of storage space with this design!
Note: leaving back open makes it much easier to fit than a wooden one which has to be cut to fit exactly. You can take the whole seat further back, simply by grinding the ends off the angle iron at rear and repositioning hinges. This one sits an inch back from sliding door opening - ample.
I left front open as I'm fitting a timber frame in there with access to a bolt which locks seat in place when its up, but you could close it off if you wanted to. For reference, horizontal bars are 155.5 cm, butting up to angle iron on ends, whole seat sits flush with rear loading area. Width (at bottom) sits snugly between each side of the van with the slope of the van sides allowing for full hinge movement. It could easily be reduced in width to fit any scenario. I used Marcle Leisure hinges with the stop pin ground off. http://www.marcle-leisure.co.uk/informa ... hinges.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; but any rock n roll hinges will work - you just make mounting lugs to suit. Uprights are box section.
The full width angle iron at back (leant back slightly to match angle of rear bulkhead) was added to provide more fixing points to bulkhead and just clears seat belt mounts nicely, but not actually essential. Now waiting for it to dry so I can fix it in place. Fastening for rear bolt on hinges was made with a short stub of angle iron welded in place. Whole thing painted (rustoleum naturally) to tie it all together visually although most of it won't show when its in place and all cushions on it. Build time, 3 hours and all steel cut with an angle grinder to save time.
Base and back to be made - still deciding best way to make that and maintain strength - probably a recycled lightweight bunk bed frame.
The tank sits about 6" below so the intention is to create a wooden recess under seat base for storage and access to tank controls when required.
My eternal thanks to my friend Gordon (an industrial welder by trade) for helping me build this and solving all the problems we encountered with respect to the hinge movement, as we went along. No way could I have done this so quickly without his help. The pattern is however here now if anyone wants to build their own. Must mention Angie, as she supplied the tea!
.
Roller paint your camper at home: http://roller.epizy.com/55554/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for MP4 download.
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lloydy
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Re: Fitting Bluebird customs Rock 'n Roll bed
Very nice, if you can knock them together that quick you should post a made to order ad. For your next challenge you can make a Autohomes bed 
Time is a drug. Too much of it kills you
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CovKid
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Re: Fitting Bluebird customs Rock 'n Roll bed
You may jest, but we're working on the Mk2 using even lighter materials and more refinements....
In situ, ready to be bolted down and base & back installed.
In situ, ready to be bolted down and base & back installed.
Roller paint your camper at home: http://roller.epizy.com/55554/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for MP4 download.