Club 80-90 Forums

jed the spread wrote:Dont drop the frellin engine

1 take the 6 drive shaft bolts out and drop the rear drive shaft.
2 take the actuator off
3 take the airbox off and the hoses to it to allow access to the engine/gearbox bolt.
4 Undo the top bolt engine/gearbox bolt.
5 undo the lower starter bolt
6 wiggle it down and disconnect the wires.
7 get the new starter connected/wires
8 go from 8-1 again

jed

Actually thinking back... I think I dropped the front of the box a bit.. to get better access.. but then I have had the gearbox in and out several times when borrowing a loan box and testing a second hand one I bought.. what a bleeding faff that is.. When I had the flywheel oil seal pee oil out, I dropped the engine and box together.. See my memory isnt what it used to be...

toomanytoys wrote:

jed the spread wrote:Dont drop the frellin engine

1 take the 6 drive shaft bolts out and drop the rear drive shaft.
2 take the actuator off
3 take the airbox off and the hoses to it to allow access to the engine/gearbox bolt.
4 Undo the top bolt engine/gearbox bolt.
5 undo the lower starter bolt
6 wiggle it down and disconnect the wires.
7 get the new starter connected/wires
8 go from 8-1 again

jed

Actually thinking back... I think I dropped the front of the box a bit.. to get better access.. but then I have had the gearbox in and out several times when borrowing a loan box and testing a second hand one I bought.. what a bleeding faff that is.. When I had the flywheel oil seal pee oil out, I dropped the engine and box together.. See my memory isnt what it used to be...

No problemo, I was talking to Neil the other day and he said how he coudnt understand how a fella like me managed to do work on my van with limited mechanical knowledge outside on the road with no garage. My way of thinking is i have done it on the road so on the road in Senegal, as long as i ha e the parts and i have done it before then its a lesson learned every job i do, even though the first time it might take for ages. Plus I plan on going away on holiday with Russel that has its benefits

jed

Yeah, trouble is when you have done several gearbox swaps and engine changes on your own and others vans.. it all starts to get a little blurred.. the good thing is you tend to be able to do them in your sleep... like driving to the same place regularly.. I couldnt tell you the road numbers and most of the villages I pass through.. but I dont get lost..... much


I think i ought to do some memory training though...

is it really that difficult to get starter out of a syncro? i keep getting the itch to buy a syncro but after reading this post i think i will stay with 2 wd lol

Yes its a bit of a bum on a petrol syncro.. but dont let that put you off.. how many starters have you had to fit to any vehicle?? Hassle is cheap... there are more costly reasons not to buy one..

Thanks, thats a great help. I'll go at it tomorrow with renewed vigour. I thought chopping the pipe might be the answer to get to the pin but was afraid of damaging something in my ignorance. I have moved it up and down but cannot see the pin.

Anyway, the broken starter is the only thing kicking me up the a*** to actually sort out my siezed diff lock, so in that respect im glad for those crazy german engineers.

Is the rubber boot actually part of the vacuum seal or is it just a protective barrier. Ie can i replace with something that fits ok or do i need to use something that fits nice and snug.

cheers for everyones posts, much appreciated

like I said, cut it away carefully.. use a suitable diameter (IIRC 25mm ID) bit of coolant hose to replace it on assembly.. its there to help keep the crud out of the actuator pin.. but with age and infrequent use they seize up.. you will need to lash plenty of plus gas on and then once free some light oil and move the actuator rod in and out lots to get it running smooth and free.. if it wont come loose or free up then its a geabox apart job to cure it.. one thing is.. dont push it in all the way as if it gets stuck and you cant pull it back out, the diff lock will be engaged you cannot drive it anywhere then...

Pictures worth at least a couple a hundred words. Cheers Simon and too many toys, cup of coffee and a bacon barm and that hose is coming off.

oh, and heres a picture of me syncro enjoying the peaks this year

I lost the little roll pin in the gravel, and just used a panel pin nail!! That was three years ago.

It's good to have a spare about.

Undoing the battery cable from the starter is a real pig, dropping the front of the gearbox really helps with that.

Here is a bit of coolant hose being used as a gaitor. It helps to have the selector shaft in the out position to get to that little pin.



On the original three piece gaitor you can separate the parts to give access to push the pin out.

Nice one Si.. I didnt have any pics of it else I would have posted them.....

Oh dear.. looks like that new actuator has had a "clunk"...

[/quote]

Sure why not, while your here i just drove for 40 minutes back to the fella you bought that part from you were after that I 80-90 expressed from south London a 300km trip for you that you didnt turn up for... I have relayed it back another 300k back to the bloke you bought it from so you can then get the £5 part posted to you.

jed[/quote]


Thanks for that tis much appreciated, tho i did send a pm to him oppologising for my absence at Dub freeze due to extreme weather conditions maybe i need to get a syncro instead of me ole 2wd

Thanks guys, what a pig of a job. The only thing i'd say to anyone else attempting it is deffo remove the airbox and accelerator cable bracket. It took me an hour of scraping knuckles before i realised that the top starter bolt actually had a nut on the end that was much easier to undo. I just assumed that it was a hex head bolt tapped into the case, especially as the bolt is so long.
Ready for sunday lunch and a pint now. That was a long weekend, i did manage to release the diff locks though, so all in all lets hope that starter lasts a long time, i don't fancy that job again !!

Starter bush a real pain to get out though, would have been tempted to leave it had i not damaged it trying to pull it out. New one in though after lots of swearing.

Thanks for all the tips and pics

cheers

robobobo wrote:Thanks guys, what a pig of a job. The only thing i'd say to anyone else attempting it is deffo remove the airbox and accelerator cable bracket. It took me an hour of scraping knuckles before i realised that the top starter bolt actually had a nut on the end that was much easier to undo. I just assumed that it was a hex head bolt tapped into the case, especially as the bolt is so long.
Ready for sunday lunch and a pint now. That was a long weekend, i did manage to release the diff locks though, so all in all lets hope that starter lasts a long time, i don't fancy that job again !!

Starter bush a real pain to get out though, would have been tempted to leave it had i not damaged it trying to pull it out. New one in though after lots of swearing.

Thanks for all the tips and pics

cheers

Its a fhooker all right Hows the back of your hands

jed

robobobo wrote:Pictures worth at least a couple a hundred words. Cheers Simon and too many toys, cup of coffee and a bacon barm and that hose is coming off.

oh, and heres a picture of me syncro enjoying the peaks this year

21947_291664791816_698996816_3974893_205756_n.jpg

A friend was telling me he spotted a "brownish syncro with windows" (he drives a Lada Niva and though some of my friends seem surprisingly good at identifying syncros they aren't so good at the bodystyles and colours questions that I ask for some resion, though some take pictures) parked somewhere around edale in the snow, I wonder if that was you then?