Its cost. It just wouldn't be worth doing as to make these commercially (and they''d need to be plug n play) they'd be over £40 a board, plus theres support etc etc.
The clocks do vary a bit and whether pre or post 86, a plug n play board would have to have the full set of gadgetry to fit all models, plus extras for expansion. Looked at this and I'm sure AngeloEVS has, but its simply not cost effective. In theory yes, but the numbers don't stack up. Better to build your own - honest.
As soon as you go down this road, you'd soon be into "I fitted your board but my oiI light doesn't work now" and so on and so on....
No thanks
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Thanks for your reply to my question. Some of it went over my head, but I understood most of it!:-) I quite like the idea of using a computer connector (Maplins).
1989 T25 Autosleeper Trooper (White) 1.9L Petrol ******* Fun fun fun!
I have received a lot of questions and enquiries regarding the details of my PCB conversion and the possibility of making the boards available (which isn't a problem other than its a time consuming process to make the boards and drill them). I will update the thread in the modified forum with precise details of what is required and a step guide to doing the conversion sometime next week.
I can't get over how helpful everyone is in this forum! The help I have received regarding this problem with the dash circuit has been truly wonderful.
Being a T25 owner, I am delighted and proud to be associated with such nice people.
I'll certainly know where to go and who to ask when I have my next problem, as I am assuming I will have more as time goes on! (The joys of running an old VW!)
Thanks to everyone.
1989 T25 Autosleeper Trooper (White) 1.9L Petrol ******* Fun fun fun!
This bond has been in the VW scene for as long as I can remember and its 25 years for me personally. Its as well to remember that it all extends from the beetle and has gone through all the models, particularly the Aircooled. The T25 wasn't accepted into the scene for a number of years because of VW's move into watercooled and although technically the T25 is the last of that period, type 4 & 5 vans are becoming part of the VW family of friends now. The T25 shares a great deal with the beetle, even down to window winders!
I have lost count of the number of times I've stopped to rescue other owners and now keep a stock of odds and ends on board just for those occasions. The same was extended to me recently, stranded on a busy junction in the pouring rain, with a five year old in the passenger seat. Within minutes a type2 drove past, turned in the middle of the road and towed me off to safety. What can you say....
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I'm really interested in this mod, but not as a standalone fix for the VW equipment. I have a LHD '89 2.1 petrol Syncro.
I fancy fitting Porsche gauges (from the 911/24/44 series, but 24/44 would be better as they have a 4 cylinder rev counter) as I have a custom dash pod. I know the likes of Oettinger and Claer have done this before.
This would improve the looks of the dash but allow me to fit better switchgear and a few more gauges out of the way.
I'm not averse to Vero board or even making my own PCB but any advice/circuit diagrams that might help make the job a bit easier would be welcome.
Can anyone help?
'90 Syncro Hightop. Ex-BUPA/Rowan ambulance with 2.0L GTI power and some curious windows.
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CovKid wrote:The problem you'll have is the speedo sensor and getting that right.
A speed sensor can be made from the Hall Effect Sensor found in Audi gearboxes and the magnetic unit from a late T3 that had Cruise Control. I have seen an article about this on a German site somewhere, I will try and find it.
If its cable driven, bear in mind speedo head will be looking for exact same size circumference of wheel to get an accurate reading since this is what the speedo is calibrated to. You may also need a longer speedo cable making up.
Roller paint your camper at home: http://roller.epizy.com/55554/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for MP4 download.
I'll just add here, as someone is bound to ask. I have not provided a complete "how to" on this since there are different dash membranes. Really all you're doing is copying your existing membrane but hard wired. If you can follow the membrane and feel you could do the job, go for it, but if you don't, then you shouldn't really attempt this. I've had no trouble with clocks since I did this and I can unplug it using the new multiconnector but I only went this route as membrane was well past its sell-by date and seemed only long-term option. I also have option of running extra lights/switches via the multiplug so it upgradeable. I'd regard this as more of a custom approach.
Oh, and don't PM me asking me to help or to hardwire anyones dash. a) I don't have the time and b) I would not want the responsibility of trying to diagnose someone elses dash if it all goes belly up. It worked for me and can be done but you're on your own.
Roller paint your camper at home: http://roller.epizy.com/55554/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for MP4 download.
I'm a new T25 owner with what appears to be a membrane PCB problem. Having taken the dash off, the PCB appears to be good EXCEPT the tab (instrument binnacle?) that fits into the connector block (wiring loom?). Several of the copper strips on the tab are badly worn as per the "typical damaged circuit" photo at the start of this thread.
I would prefer not to go the veroboard/hardwiring route (excellent though they seem to be!!), so simply ask whether anyone knows of a way to repair the connection/copper strips whilst leaving the existing PCB in-place and intact??
Maybe a little off topic, but is there a way to test the temp gauge directly on the gauge itself, rather than at the fuse box or in the engine bay to check for continuity of the wiring?
Also, I believe my temp gauge is connected to the wrong sender/wire, in the engine bay it's blue/white, but on the dash, yellow/red. there is a yellow/red in the bay, but that goes to the oil temp sender.
Are you asking if the temp gauge can be checked to see if its working by testing it at the dashboard? if so - yes, there are different methods depending on the year of manufacture but testing the wiring depends on what the problem is and what you are trying to establish!
Is yours a WBX'r petrol is the next question but sounds like someone has altered the wiring as the yelow/red should go to the thermostat sender located in the thermostat housing.
