thermostat replacement
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- ghost123uk
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Re: thermostat replacement
The later plastic ones must (I assume) be compatible with the engine so if it breaks, don't panic you can have one of my spare ones for a very modest amount. (note, I only wish to sell 1 if someone is in dire need, not just for someone to sell on or keep "in stock" )
Got a new van, but it's a 165bhp T4 [shock horror] Accurate LPG Station map here
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Re: thermostat replacement
Thanks, I may take a few photos of it this evening in situ for recommendations and confirmation of the type.
Dylan = C Reg 1986 T25 1900 Water Cooled..
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Re: thermostat replacement
Some images of the offending thermostat housing... I know the engine is a mess but it feels comfortable that way.



and a 10mm spanner virtually turns without touching the bolt heads



and a 10mm spanner virtually turns without touching the bolt heads
Dylan = C Reg 1986 T25 1900 Water Cooled..
Re: thermostat replacement
Providing the housing is still in useable or sound condition, I've read somewhere (might be on here) others' have drilled out metal threaded bushes and used a nut and bolt with dollops of sealant. May not look pretty but should do the job.
MaxStu
1987 2.1 Automatic Carb/LPG Autosleeper.
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
1987 2.1 Automatic Carb/LPG Autosleeper.
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
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Re: thermostat replacement
okay looking for experienced guidance here is anyone ready to step up to the plate?
I decided today I would disconnect the negative battery lead, take the coolant and remove the whole thermostat housing...
I disconnected the lead 1 minute
I drained some coolant 2 minutes
I have disconnected all of the hoses from the thermostat housing
I noted the two bolts holding the thermostat housing onto the engine, these used to be allen bolts but are now rounded internal and ruined outside bolts. If I run my finger toward the engine from the bottom bolt it actually feels like the plastic housing is damaged and a swollen rusty bolt is growing out of it. when I was under the van looking at these bolts the underside of the 4 screws/bolts connecting the top and bottom housing were rusted completely.
someone has obviously tried to fix this previously and gave up, like the clutch and the slave cylinder before.
now what do I do?
1) put it all back together, refill with coolant and forget about it.
2) saw the heads off the bolts carefully remove the thermostat housing, and tackle the studs stuck in the engine, then tackle the thermostat housing in the comfort of my living room / "fully equipped workshop" <- yeah right
3) try and somehow jam the thermostat open so that it always runs cold?
I cant think of any other options I really do feel that the thermostat housing is damaged on the lower bolt, it just doesn't feel right, I do assume that the thermostat housing isn't just attached to the engine but that water flows into it from that side of the engine too.
please help? I can have the camper off the road for ages, but I cannot live with the fact I know it needs repairing if I put it back together. if I knacker any of the bits in the disassembly of something that has been like it for years and plodded on, it will become a nightmare.
I decided today I would disconnect the negative battery lead, take the coolant and remove the whole thermostat housing...
I disconnected the lead 1 minute

I drained some coolant 2 minutes

I have disconnected all of the hoses from the thermostat housing
I noted the two bolts holding the thermostat housing onto the engine, these used to be allen bolts but are now rounded internal and ruined outside bolts. If I run my finger toward the engine from the bottom bolt it actually feels like the plastic housing is damaged and a swollen rusty bolt is growing out of it. when I was under the van looking at these bolts the underside of the 4 screws/bolts connecting the top and bottom housing were rusted completely.
someone has obviously tried to fix this previously and gave up, like the clutch and the slave cylinder before.
now what do I do?
1) put it all back together, refill with coolant and forget about it.
2) saw the heads off the bolts carefully remove the thermostat housing, and tackle the studs stuck in the engine, then tackle the thermostat housing in the comfort of my living room / "fully equipped workshop" <- yeah right
3) try and somehow jam the thermostat open so that it always runs cold?
I cant think of any other options I really do feel that the thermostat housing is damaged on the lower bolt, it just doesn't feel right, I do assume that the thermostat housing isn't just attached to the engine but that water flows into it from that side of the engine too.
please help? I can have the camper off the road for ages, but I cannot live with the fact I know it needs repairing if I put it back together. if I knacker any of the bits in the disassembly of something that has been like it for years and plodded on, it will become a nightmare.
Dylan = C Reg 1986 T25 1900 Water Cooled..
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Re: thermostat replacement
well I have wilted and put it all back together, new coolant going in this afte4rnoon I will challenge this again but only if I take it off the road for the winter.
Dylan = C Reg 1986 T25 1900 Water Cooled..
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Re: thermostat replacement
im not sure were u got your sensors form??, But iv had a GSF one and a JK one and both read HOT they are poor, so i got all my bit of Brickwerks ieclartsonly wrote:Okay bear with me some history
for 2 years my temp gauge didn't work, eventually I changed the correct sensor and it worked, but always looked very hot. I assumed the sensor was damaged from being in the wrong hole and connected to the wrong wiring, well more recently the gauge would not go over the white block eg very cold. I changed the sensor and it is showing hot again.
SO do you think that the Van is running very hot and that is why the sensors have broken? if this is the case I am about due for an coolant change, eg over 2 years since I flushed and replace the coolant. Should I use this opportunity to replace the thermostat. It really doesn't look like a simple task. Does anyone else have any hints or tips?
in other news I changed the oil only last week to 20/50, and yesterday the air filter and spark plugs and it is like a new van responsive, idling correctly, what are the chances of changing the oil filter on its own without losing all of the oil, as I forgot to get one from gsf yesterday. I changed the oil and oil filter last year 2000 miles ago, but new sparks and airfilter have made a huge difference.
thermostat and sensors and now it spot on

- AngeloEvs
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Re: thermostat replacement
You probably did the right thing and best wait untill you have a replacement housing if it all goes pear-shaped. The heads on mine were totally 'fubarred' but the housing itself was sound. Nice warm day and took a couple of hours sawing the heads of gently with the housing in situ. With Stat Cover off, mole grips on the protruding studs and then replaced with new M10 bolts.......... with loads of grease on the heads and thread to stop it happening again. Best of luck!
1987 DG Karisma LPG with remodelled interior
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Re: thermostat replacement
thanks for the input
hmm very interesting the first sensor that broke was from GSF and the second sensor which also reads hot was from GSF. I may go for an original one next time, or at least for a test.
thanks yeah I know even if as above the sensor is the issue, in my head I know that both the thermostat and exhaust needs to be removed with care and may as well do them both at the same time, once I am in the head removal and slow stud removal zone. The last thing I would want to do is make the Van off the road all summer.
im not sure were u got your sensors form??, But iv had a GSF one and a JK one and both read HOT they are poor, so i got all my bit of Brickwerks ie
thermostat and sensors and now it spot on
hmm very interesting the first sensor that broke was from GSF and the second sensor which also reads hot was from GSF. I may go for an original one next time, or at least for a test.
You probably did the right thing and best wait untill you have a replacement housing if it all goes pear-shaped. The heads on mine were totally 'fubarred' but the housing itself was sound. Nice warm day and took a couple of hours sawing the heads of gently with the housing in situ. With Stat Cover off, mole grips on the protruding studs and then replaced with new M10 bolts.......... with loads of grease on the heads and thread to stop it happening again. Best of luck!
thanks yeah I know even if as above the sensor is the issue, in my head I know that both the thermostat and exhaust needs to be removed with care and may as well do them both at the same time, once I am in the head removal and slow stud removal zone. The last thing I would want to do is make the Van off the road all summer.
Dylan = C Reg 1986 T25 1900 Water Cooled..