if you have a good budget and want maximum performance with good fuel economy then you want one of these:
this is what i have on mine... this is a Mallory Unilite complete electronic, it is both centrifugel and has vac advance.. dont think for a minute that they are only for performance as they are not... these are fully adjustable too suit your needs, all advance curves can be set even the vacuum speed can be set on them more info here http://www.malloryperformance.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; the initial cost is quite hi but it will pay off in the long run.. I will put up all the data after it has been setup right on the rolling road and have done a few miles to work out the performance if anyone is interested.. At the moment they are expensive due to the bloody exchange rate!!!!!!
He fought his first battle on the Scottish Highlands in 1536... There can only be one...
CovKid wrote:Sorry Umgum, on reflection my post seems a little fierce. Didn't mean it to be - honest.
It does want writing up in the WIKI though. They really don't suit these engines at all well, even the Aircooled variety. It is possible to machine a 009 to make it more suitable and have done that in the past in a machine shop with a change of base plate as required but its probably easier to refurb an original.
On the bug, with a 009 we just used to tune the engine up for maximum range without any pinking but you'd see the difference when you fit the right one. Mostly what goes on a dizzy is wear in the centre shaft, cam wear or a knackered base plate. With standard points, wear in the shaft or on cam makes it impossible to set the dwell correctly making for very unpredictable performance - usually crap acceleration or lumpy idle. Its also possible to strip down a few dizzies and make a half decent one out of the lot. Really useful if theres a garden shed engineer around though as they can sort these things out fairly simply, same with carbs and getting them rebushed etc.
I agree that the 009 dizzy should be mentioned in the Wiki (eg. do not use under any circumstances !!!).
To be totally honest my advice to anyone who is even dreaming about using a 009 is simply don't !!!!. They are simply money straight down the drain and a lot of unwanted hassle to go with it.
hi if anyone can explain to me a bit more about the 009 issue my m8 swears that it is the tool for the job with a different cam
we are going to split my engine and rebuild it but i want it right and as cheaply as possible
we have already got rid of the electric thingys at the side and he is on about getting rid of the hydrolic tappets
any help on this please
but he has never worked on this type of engine before (though he has been working on dubs for about 20 years)
if anyone can pm me there phone number and i will ring you
umgum wrote:hi if anyone can explain to me a bit more about the 009 issue my m8 swears that it is the tool for the job with a different cam
we are going to split my engine and rebuild it but i want it right and as cheaply as possible
we have already got rid of the electric thingys at the side and he is on about getting rid of the hydrolic tappets
any help on this please
but he has never worked on this type of engine before (though he has been working on dubs for about 20 years)
if anyone can pm me there phone number and i will ring you
Listen to the advice you are being given here!!! I dont want to upset your mate but he is giving you the wrong advice and information, Do the research yourself on google!!! changing the cam and lifters will not make any difference to the way the 009 works!! that will only give you a higher rev range!! the 009 simply dosnt have the curve to work efficiently with the Type 4 engine that is fact!!!.... It is also a well known FACT that the 009 dosnt even work properly on a type1 engine!!! It was an over rated upgrade/fashion accessory in it days but has proven to be a very annoying piece of kit when fitted!!! anyone with good experience and engine knowledge will tell you exactly the same (the guys above ^^^^ know what they are talking about)!! Stick to the 205k with the electronic ignition..
He fought his first battle on the Scottish Highlands in 1536... There can only be one...
Yep, Highlanders suggestion is an excellent one too. The flexibility to tune the dizzy (if its not stock) is crucial. Part of the mythology that seems attached to the 009 might extend from its similarity to the number of a certain secret agent but quite honestly its a heap of junk. The other side of the myth is that as its 'all advance' it will make you go faster or other such nonsense. You'll often see it displayed alongside custom VW parts but it is not a perfomance part in its own right. Its a 'near enough' job and I'm being very kind by saying that much.
It can work 'reasonably' well on set up engines but the total lack of useful adjustment puts it in the cheep and barely cheerful class of aftermarket parts. Same goes for the fandagled high-tech lightup dizzy covers and leads - waste of money. Nowhere near as good as stock and I've worked on probably thousands of aircolled engines over 25 years and never found a 009 that wasn't a whole heap of trouble. Seen engines wrecked by 009s too and I'll bet there are others that will support me on that. There was a time when it was worth the effort fitting different cams, bigger pistons etc but the Subaru killed alll that to be honest. Its far easier to just fit a modern, more efficient engine, or at least something that does more than 20MPG.
I don't even want to reflect on the wasted hours spent fitting webber conversions either - all to drop the economy lower still with crap idling to boot.
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