continuation on non temp. gauge update + advice request

Post by **Fritz** » 09 May 2008, 16:02

May I just point out the temp sender and wiring you should be testing is the one facing the front of the van as it is fitted to the stat housing, picture 2 shows the one facing the N/S/R wheel.,,

If I am wrong then OK....

Regards\

Fritz,,,,,,,,,,

Post by **toomanytoys** » 09 May 2008, 16:48

one other thing.. why is there an idle stabilisation unit on it?? (thing with red tape on it) unplug the 2 connections from the box and plug them together.. see if it runs any better like that.....

Post by **clartsonly** » 10 May 2008, 04:28

one other thing.. why is there an idle stabilisation unit on it?? (thing with red tape on it) unplug the 2 connections from the box and plug them together.. see if it runs any better like that.....

eh the engine runs fine it is the temp gauge, and wiring I am concerned about. I never really noticed any difference between the ISU being joined up or not...

Post by **clartsonly** » 10 May 2008, 04:36

Mocki wrote:*sigh*
ill say it once more.. just incase.
the flashiing red light takes its signal from the temp gauge at the dash end, AND the low level sender in the header tank,

hmm I assumed the light came on from using the middle pin and earth or when the gauge reads max, I didn't realise the PCB worked out to put the light on, but that is not here nor there, the issue is of course the electricity is that end and not on my dash.

the sender is plastic, and plugs into a plastic thermostat housing, therefore it must have two wires, as it cannot connect to earth any other way, one wire is "live" and one is Neg. If they are damaged, or mented together, buth will be one, or the other and not do their job.

yeah that is what confirmed...

clartsonly wrote:Although I assured him that the electricty flowed through the sensor and out through the other wire as boats do. I assume I am right?

although the damaged wire bit is the interesting bit, which what what I was quering, although I am surprised that if there is a constant current there and the wiring is shorted that a fuse has not blown or the wires burnt, perhaps the current is very low.

i would say the not starting thing when the wires are bridged is more to do with taking the live feed away from the coil than anything else.......

okay I was am not too worried about that, just additional information incase it reminded someone of something that happened to theirs at some point.

I think the wire bonding, is the most likely at the moment and will review this all again next week.

Post by **clartsonly** » 10 May 2008, 04:42

Fritz wrote:May I just point out the temp sender and wiring you should be testing is the one facing the front of the van as it is fitted to the stat housing, picture 2 shows the one facing the N/S/R wheel.,,

If I am wrong then OK....

Regards\

Fritz,,,,,,,,,,

[img:800:600]http://clartsonly.com/camper/img_0057.jpg[/img]

the component I changed was joined to this socket, it was this part

[img:237:180]http://shop.justkampers.com/images/JK/lge_J10568.jpg[/img]

Post by **Fritz** » 10 May 2008, 16:17

I still think you are checking the wrong one, take a closer look at the stat housing as the sender that controls the gauge on the dash is out of sight from the photograph .

You will be able to see it properly by getting under the van and looking up towards the housing.....

Regards

Fritz.,,,,,,,,

Post by **Aidan** » 11 May 2008, 07:10

Fritz is right, you are checking the wrong one. Front sender is guage. Side sender is temp2 for injection, preheat system for carb.
connect the non brown to earth. ie on the engine, not by bridging, and the guage should go to max with ignition on.
If not then you have a continuity fault from the sender to the dash which you will have to check through, or the dash/guage is faulty.
If it does then the guage is working and you have continuity tested the signal wire too. Then try the bridging method and if it doesn't work then you have continuity tested the earth wire and found it's poor. The earth wire can then be sorted, a check in the wiring diagram will confirm where it goes to earth, either in the engine bay, or possibly at the front by the fusebox, i can't remember and my manual is in the garage at the mo.
I'd be very careful putting a meter across things unless I knew what they were and what signal to expect.

Post by **clartsonly** » 12 May 2008, 08:49

thanks for you input fritz and beaker at least I now know I was looking at the wrong sender unit I did realize there was something else around the front of the thermostat housing, but GSF, justkampers and the haynes manual had not made it clear at all, I now know why justkampers sell a multitude of these sensors for the same aged vans. I will check tonight, hopefully it is simply the earth.

Post by **clartsonly** » 12 May 2008, 19:44

this forum is invaluable, I have now located the correct socket on the temperature sender, and now when I bypass the sender by joining the two wires together the temperature gauge finally moved to full and the light flashed.

I assume I can use the same sender unit as in the other position in the thermostat housing?

thanks again for fritz's quick eyes and beakers description of the wiring.

Post by **tonytech** » 12 May 2008, 19:51

I think the senders have different values, one has a blue terminal block, the other black.
My old van had the connectors on the wrong ones, causing the temp guage to barely get above warm.

As a temporary fix (read 2 years and 10,000 miles) it will be fine

T

Post by **clartsonly** » 13 May 2008, 07:54

hmmm now when I got a new sensor I replaced the blue one with a black one, does this mean that I have a fuller explanation as to why the van doesn't work when it is cold?

so I should be able to get a new blue sender unit and swap the black one out for the blue one?

it is all becoming clear, this also explains why the engine sounds like it is struggling when it is bypassed and why I hear a relay click when I bypassed it.

Post by **Mocki** » 13 May 2008, 10:28

the relay you heard click was the carb heater relay, and the carb heater would have been heating..........

and if the sender was wrong, it would have been heating at the wrong time too........

Post by **clartsonly** » 14 May 2008, 13:06

can I put the correct blue sensor in the other hole and switch the cables over? I assume that is what the "10,000 miles and 2 years" thread is about

Post by **clartsonly** » 15 May 2008, 07:36

excellent I have a temperature gauge

now I have bled the system the brickwerks way basically lots of times, now my manifold heater should be working properly again (I hear the click when I connect the cable), do you think I should be lowering the idle and retiming? or just play it by ear.

Post by **clartsonly** » 28 May 2008, 10:05

arhhhh

my temperature gauges middle is 3/4 across the gauge? is it possible because of my previous "wrong hole" syndrome that the sensor maybe incorrect, as the gauge should be in the middle. I dont believe it is running hot one bit.