Club 80-90 Forums

That seems like the part alright, but I have another question.

The van does not have its original engine. It was fitted with a reconditioned Audi 1.6t in 1995. Does this mean it will require a different slave cylinder or are they the same on all models regardless of the engine? It'd be great to order the part today and be back on the road by the weekend.

providing it has a t25 gearbox, ( which i'm pretty sure it musy have) then the part you want to order will be the same as any other t25......
which engine is hanging on the end of the gearbox will no difference make.

great, thanks. will get onto getting that part posted earlier so.

i'll have the part by Tuesday, at a considerably lower cost than the official VW parts crowd were gonna charge me. My only dilemma now is whether to change it myself or not. The rust on the nuts does not appear to be that serious so i'm not too worried about getting them off, although the rear one does seem awkward. What i'm mostly worried about is possibly having to cut the plastic pipe and then get a replacement. Would rather give it to a mechanic who knows their stuff but would also like to improve my knowledge of these things and the best way to do this is get my hands dirty. I'll have another good look over the weekend but thanks for all the help on this. Was not aware of this site until a week ago and seems like a great resource, especially for newbies.

so you do have the plastic pipe then?

get a replacement it will save you more than £15's worth of time if it doesn't come off straightaway. the bolts are fine once you get the balancing right, just remember to put them in before lowering the slave cylinder down.


have a look here for the plastic pipe part number, also be careful when undoing the other end joining at the chassis you do not want to break you steal clutch pipe undoing the plastic from it, so slip a ring spanner down over the cut plastic tube when undoing it. all of this might sound more complicated / worrying / dangerous but they are only comments about possible pitfuls that others have had. I searched for two weeks to try and get a plastic clutch pipe, noone knew what it was GSF / JK / EUROCARPARTS they all thought it was a hack job. I even had pirtek saying they would not be able to make a replacement.


clutch hydraulics thread

I don't know if I have the plastic pipe, haven't checked that since you last mentioned it. Let me get this straight, the plastic pipe joins the slave cylinder to the steel pipe which goes to the master cylinder?

Is this the part you mean: http://shop.justkampers.com/product_inf ... 2f66dd4732

And finally, i'll only have to get that part if it's necessary to cut the pipe?

I'm growing in confidence.

Here's the page from Simon Baxter's Brickwerks :- http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php?p ... t&Itemid=6

I would recommend the hard plastic pipe :- http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php?p ... t&Itemid=6

(sorry, I don't know how to post clicky here type links )

That pipe runs from the slave cylinder to the bulkhead joint where it meets the front>back metal pipe.

The modification Emma speaks of is to replace the rearmost nut/bolt of the slave cylinder with an M8 rivnut (i.e. a captive nut) so it's a doddle to remove the little bolt. So long as the bracket brace bar is held in place you can rivnut the other one too.

If you're in any doubt I'd get this clutch job carried out by a trustworthy DIY or even a proffesional mechanic .... it is a safety issue if it gives up the ghost completely and involves the brake fluid system too

All the best, Ian.

If you're in any doubt I'd get this clutch job carried out by a trustworthy DIY or even a proffesional mechanic .... it is a safety issue if it gives up the ghost completely and involves the brake fluid system too

how can this happen the clutch stops working an inch of fluid above the brakes, so even if you were to saw through the clutch pipe next to the resoviour the brakes would still work.

I don't know if I have the plastic pipe, haven't checked that since you last mentioned it. Let me get this straight, the plastic pipe joins the slave cylinder to the steel pipe which goes to the master cylinder?

Is this the part you mean: http://shop.justkampers.com/product_inf ... 2f66dd4732

And finally, i'll only have to get that part if it's necessary to cut the pipe?

I'm growing in confidence.

the just kampers part is not the bit you will need if you have the hard plastic pipe (that part is for the old fashioned setup of flexihose, bracket, clutch pipe to slave as seen in the haynes manual for the T25), the link to brickwerks by ian hulley shows what it looks like although it is about the same price as VW.

and yes you only have to replace the plastic pipe if the old one is either damaged too badly during removal or cut through, it maybe worth attempting to undo the other end of the plastic pipe and then use a bench and vice to try and unseize the plastic pipe from the slave cylinder afterwards to save you the bother of replacing it.

ok, so if I have the plastic pipe I have two potential problems (please excuse the lack of technical terminology here):

1) The pipe attachment could be seized at either the connection to the slave cylinder or to the main pipe running under the van, in which case I would need to cut it.

2)In trying to get the plastic pipe off I could crack the main pipe running under the van

Am I right so far?

If I find that I do not have the plastic pipe but the older setup does this mean I won't encounter as many problems i.e. it will be easier to detach and reattach?

I dont know I have the plastic pipe setup, but stupidly cut through it instead of carefully removing it at the other end, and spending some time and heat perhaps removing it from the shot slave cylinder.

update
i've driven the van a few times without replacing the part and the drop in the reservoir because of the leak is barely noticeable. I'm thinking now that the slave cylinder has been leaking very small amounts for months, so with a full reservoir it will still go for quite a while. The other thread about the clutch master cylinder seems to clear up the fact that loss of fluid will not affect the brakes. My plan now is to drive it the 250 km home on Easter weekend so that my Dad can give me a hand in fitting the new part. He knows his way around an engine and will be a lot more careful than a mechanic in terms of cracking pipes etc. Given what i've said above, does anyone think driving with this lightly leaking slave cylinder is a crazy idea?

be prepared to get a tow home if it goes, dont change gear very often, and dont leave it in gear at the lights with your foot on the clutch and dont stamp on the clutch.

I (without knowing) did all the wrong thing when I collected my van from edinburough and drove to bedford before the clutch went, if I had been more careful, it most likely would have broken on the way to a holiday so it was a blessing in disguise really.

also if you have a good starter motor and it does go close to your destination, you could always put it in second gear and bump start it for the rest of your journey.

after careful consideration i've decided to bite the bullet and get a proper mechanic to do it. I'm driving it home in 2 weeks and taking a detour through west Clare so it will need to be on its best behaviour. the part should be here today and he said he can do it tomorrow. I told him all about the problems mentioned here (rusted nuts, cracking the main clutch pipe) and he was fully aware of that kind of scenario. I reckon I can trust the guy, he's old school

Blue Thunder wrote: after careful consideration i've decided to bite the bullet and get a proper mechanic to do it.

A wise and prudent move, well done.

Ian.