Wiring Diagram - 14 Pin connector Dash

[clartsonly]

I am hoping then that pin 3 is my problem, as if that is not working correctly I think I am correct in saying that the dash will be dead whether the key is turned or side lights on or anything. and hopefully pin 3 is on the left hand side if looking down on the connect from the drivers seat as it was always that area I wiggled to get the dash alive before.


thanks for all you help grun, I will use the power of daylight tomorrow to try and resolve this issue.

[Grun]

clartsonly,

I have been looking at the Haynes wiring diagram again, (yes I know lots of peeps don't like it!!) and pin 3 is the earth for the dash including instrument illumination. Haynes only shows the earth point as, '20 Earth connection, dash panel wiring loom' which is not very helpful. Let us know if you find it during your efforts.

The feed to the illumination, is from terminal 58b on the lighting (off/side/headlamp) switch when in the side lamp (and of course in the headlamp) position, the brightness is varied by the little thumb wheel on the dash, the wire is grey/blue and via a 10A fuse marked as S50 goes to pin 1 on the 14 pin connector.

Have you checked that the foil on the 'flexy printed circuit' is OK. Several of mine have been repaired, and one was still in need of a little bit of wire and a touch of solder to get things to work, but has now been fine for many years. I am touching wood as I speak!!

Mike

[clartsonly]

The reason I am now blaming the wire is because I have some replacement clocks which do not work either, the previous clocks the temperature gauge didn't work but the wire track going to the temp gauge was burnt out.

I am hoping it is a bad earth on the cluster where the fuse box is, as I managed to sort out the rad fan because of the bad earth.

[clartsonly]

ok,

I have constructed a set of clocks based on mine apart from the flexible circuit board, mine looked burnt but wasnt (I have done beep tests across all the tracks.

The problem wires are either 13 or 14 if I wiggle them just a little the dash starts to work, I didn't use the replacement clocks as they were as they had loads of "extra" holes in and were held together with tape the same as mine as well as the bit of plastic which slots into to the socket was cracked and fell off as soon as I coughed within a mile of it.

I have located the wire 6 which is the temperature gauge (it loops back to wire four) and when I bypass the temperature sensor in the engine bay, I get 0 volts from wire 6 to earth, where all the others appear okay to me eg volts when expected.)
I need to trace this wire into the fuse box, but as I am coloured blind; you know when I look at the tiny little wire and its two colours and then it disappears into a massive bundle of wires under the dash, which all look the same.

I think I need to take it for a good run tomorrow as it hasn't left the drive apart for a couple of miles and just see what happens regarding restarting on my return "new starter motor" when I start it is seems a little smokey and wet "oil / water from the exhaust" and it needs a little bit of trust and tenderness on a countryside tour.

[Grun]

Pin 6 to B7 on 'Relay Plate' then out from D29 on relay plate towards engine bay.
According to Mr. H****s diagram!

This is a case of the half blind leading the colour blind, by the sound of it.

Mike

[clartsonly]

thanks grun,

I am beginning to understand these diagrams although I was hoping that it was a simple fuse, I have been trying to examine this "typical dash panel insert, coolant temp...." etc diagram but how do I know what the b7 and d29 bits of the fuse box, relay plate are. if I find them at least I can check the wires with my bleeper

I have removed and tried to clean a little all the connectors on the T14 to see if that improves the dash working without any wiggles.

[Grun]

but how do I know what the b7 and d29 bits of the fuse box, relay plate are. if I find them at least I can check the wires with my bleeper

Don't worry about them, just check continuity from pin 6 on the loom side of the 14 pin connector to the G pin (or is it a socket) on the sender (on the thermostat housing isn't it?)

That is the yellow/red wire. If you have continuity then B7 D29 are OK.

If not T7a2 on the 7 pin connector engine compartment junction box could be culprit.

'Finding an open circuit' Electrical System page 12.3, may help.

Let us know when the divorce comes through, or you sell the van whichever is sooner

Mike

[clartsonly]

Don't worry about them, just check continuity from pin 6 on the loom side of the 14 pin connector to the G pin (or is it a socket) on the sender (on the thermostat housing isn't it?)

is there a trick to this as the leads on my multimeter are not going to be long enough?