Engine bay wiring dilema - SORTED

[Smiffo]

Yellow / Red is definitely the coolant temperature gauge wire

Blue/Green is fluid level switch to the shortage indicator module [42] or [43] in the fuse box.

The coolant led should flash for a few seconds when the ignition is turned on.

Plain yellow is the 0.9bar oil pressure switch for dynamic oil pressure circuit

Blue/black is the 0.3 bar oil pressure switch for the dash led.

Oh darn. You’re right. brain fart moment.

Why would it cause dash to flash and needle not move when connected to something though, Robsey?
Unless it is the few seconds of self check ofc.
 

[Robsey]

As you say - coolant led should flash for a few seconds as part of a self test.

Any longer than 6 seconds (I think), then the coolant level is too low, regardless of indicated temperature.

To bypass the level switch, short the blue/green to earth.

As for the original query about the oil pressure led flashing.
This is why I queried the wiring order within the cluster.
But my head cannot see why the led would flash, unless it was a loose or intermittent connection.
Then it would flicker, not flash.

[Smiffo]

As you say - coolant led should flash for a few seconds as part of a self test.

Any longer than 6 seconds (I think), then the coolant level is too low, regardless of indicated temperature.

To bypass the level switch, short the blue/green to earth.

As for the original query about the oil pressure led flashing.
This is why I queried the wiring order within the cluster.
But my head cannot see why the led would flash, unless it was a loose or intermittent connection.
Then it would flicker, not flash.

I think I’m going to sit this one out for a bit. I must be reading it wrong or I’m tired lol.
I was reading it as flashing when yellow/red connected to something, but no needle movement.

Yes, 6 seconds self test is spot on memory. I was going through all of mine last week. 

[Robsey]

No worries my friend,

All these different colour-schemes, model-year changes, and differences between country specifications can confuse the best of them.

I have been tripped up a fair few times, especially with the use of two switches for the later oil pressure system and the separate switch and sensor circuits for the cooling system.

[Dueller]

Cheers everyone, this is the last hurdle for me

Drove the van today, went very well but odd having no dash lights

Will go again in a bit and try your suggestions re earthing them out

Got a dongle and App so reading the engine on that ok but not the same as having dash lights

Always thought my dash had been changed for a lower spec model so questionable as to what works, I know the fuel gauge has worked in the past so probably needs a visit to the petrol station

[Robsey]

The dash illumination is the grey/blue wire, which is the output from the lighting rheostat.

Later dash =
Should be pin 1 on the 14 pin dash connector.
The ground is the same brown wire used for the whole dash on pin 3.

On early dash =
Should be pin 3 on the 14 pin dash connector.
The ground is two brown wires used for the dash on pins 2 and 5.

[Dueller]

Seems my dash pod is a problem, loads of messing about and now fuel gauge works and temp flashes and goes off

Battery and oil still the same

Thinking I will rewire those 2 directly

Any other ideas anyone??

Thanks again

[Dueller]

The dash illumination is the grey/blue wire, which is the output from the lighting rheostat.

Later dash =
Should be pin 1 on the 14 pin dash connector.
The ground is the same brown wire used for the whole dash on pin 3.

On early dash =
Should be pin 3 on the 14 pin dash connector.
The ground is two brown wires used for the dash on pins 2 and 5.

Sorry meant battery and oil warning lights

[Dueller]

...and after I put it all back together nothing works again

Have started looking for a replacement clock set

Still thinking of rebuilding mine with more mechanical stuff to it

[Aidan]

I have a good condition basic petrol flexi board here, ie no clock or rev counter, later type for bod circuit, and I have bod circuits, but no decent binnacles or speedos

[Dueller]

Thanks Aidan but I've realised I need a new binnacle as the slot where the plug goes on has been snapped off

Thinking one of these

[Robsey]

If you want a much cheaper reliable option, you could try AngeloEVS.

Now that they have just relocated him on the facebook group.

He made up a brilliant circuit board complete with an edge connector for me a few years ago, for a quarter of the cost of the CVC and other brands.









He also provided a spare edge connector for my MG DigiDash experiment.

[Aidan]

I also have a foil complete with working clock that has the tab intact, but track 1, dashlights, is foobarred at the 14 pin connection but working around that should be pretty easy

[Dueller]

Thinking I'll move away from the vw design at the moment Aidan, will look into the alternatives

Thanks bud

[Dueller]

If you want a much cheaper reliable option, you could try AngeloEVS.

Now that they have just relocated him on the facebook group.

He made up a brilliant circuit board complete with an edge connector for me a few years ago, for a quarter of the cost of the CVC and other brands.









He also provided a spare edge connector for my MG DigiDash experiment.

Any contact details for AngeloEVS at all bud??

Can't find him on FB