Club 80-90 Forums

how about a block of wood between the top of wishbone and the bottom of the seat box then jack from below to ensure compression on the taper gather than gravity

I'm with MaxStu on this one.

if there's enough wear to make the spindle spin then it's working life is already compromised.

ball joints will turn with a mucky thread unless the taper is locked into the stub axle. I did see a thread on here some time ago berating the quality of replacement joints so hearsay would indicate best to keep the original unless knocking or perished boot

mrhutch wrote: ↑07 Feb 2023, 15:09 I'm with MaxStu on this one.

if there's enough wear to make the spindle spin then it's working life is already compromised.

No, they will always spin once 'freed'.

weimarbus wrote: ↑07 Feb 2023, 17:45 best to keep the original unless knocking or perished boot

Yes, agreed, and far more fulfilling and satisfying fixing something than the 'just throw it away and buy another' mindset.

weimarbus wrote: ↑07 Feb 2023, 08:23 how about a block of wood between the top of wishbone and the bottom of the seat box then jack from below to ensure compression on the taper gather than gravity

Great idea, I never thought of that and it has actually worked. I was able to undo the nut. As well as doing this, even though the tension was greatly increased I also attached molegrips to the bottom exposed part of the thread (there is a flat area to help with this, you could also use a small spanner but mine snapped in the process), and lots of frequent WD-40, I also used a second nut on the bottom to help 'work' the thread a little. Took a lot of back and to motion with the siezed nut, gradually working it off over a couple of hours, but the above method posted by weimarbus did work. The thread of the balljoint cleaned up nicely and I'm happy to keep using it.

If anyone tries this method, you need a bottle jack under the strut, or similar, as you need a 'straight up' motion, the arc of a trolley jack may be problematic, and the suitable block of wood as described, between the top of the upper wishbone and the underneath of the van/seat recess. Be prepared for the van to lift slightly depending on how much you higher the jack. Without the block of wood I found that there isn't any real extra tension to 'hold' the ball joint thread.

Frequently can't believe how tight/sized the fixings are on the van, the caliper bolts the other day were so tight that I had a breaker bar with a cut off scaffold pole slipped over it (a method which will get most things undone) and swinging with so much force to loosen it, must have looked quite comical, hope no one was watching.

Thanks again to weimarbus and all who replied.

For info, this current job entails - new front brake discs/pads and new anti roll bar drop links/bushes.

Glad it worked ,thanks for updating us