KY 1.7d Timing Belt Replacement

[mrhutch]

there's no doubt it's an AEF, the only pumps that look like yours fitted to VW engines are in the AEF

[Horatio Flange]

There are top and bottom plastic sections to the cam belt cover, and a cast aluminium mid section which formed one of the engine mounts on the original transverse arrangement. These will fit with a  very small amount of modification to the ally part. Best got from a scrapper I would think.

Hi Colin,  Would you happen to have a picture of the cast ally part?  I have no idea what I'm looking for?   I also don;t know oif I need new covers or if the ones I bought for a 1.7d will fit?  The van had no covers on it when I got it so I ordefred ones for a 1.7d as that was what I was told was in it.  I now know it s 1.9d AEF thatnks to you. 

[colinthefox]

Would you happen to have a picture of the cast ally part?  I have no idea what I'm looking for?   I also don;t know oif I need new covers or if the ones I bought for a 1.7d will fit?  The van had no covers on it when I got it so I ordefred ones for a 1.7d as that was what I was told was in it.

The 1.7d covers won't fit. I'll get back tomorrow evening with pictures and more info.
 

[colinthefox]

Right.......…
  
 I’ve had a close look at the photos you’ve posted, and there are quite a few things to comment on.
 Most of them are relatively minor and inexpensive to put right. Some you might not want to do anything about at all. It would be good to compare your installation with the photos on the Brickyard thread.
  
 The reference letters here bear no relation to the reference letters in the Brickyard thread by the way!
  

  

• A The throttle position sensor is not needed so can be removed altogether.
  
• B I’m not sure how the throttle cable is secured on to the injection pump lever. I used a random spring clip from my box of odds to prevent the plastic blob from jumping off the lever, but almost any metal spring clip would do.
  
• C The temperature sensor (presumably goes with the AEF) is in a plastic hose spigot, so it needs a ground connection and may not provide the correct reading at the dashboard temperature gauge. That’s OK, but the original cast aluminium hose spigot is arguably better, only needs one wire, and uses the original kind of sensor.
  
• D Fuel hoses should be secured by special fuel hose clips, not ordinary worm drive clips, which can cause leaks on small diameter hoses. In this position any leak would allow air into the system, wouldn’t show up as a diesel leak and may give starting problems eventually.
  
• E The high idle lever is by default in the high idle position due to the spring (to cope with air conditioning etc, which you don’t have presumably), and this should be secured by a wire tie into the “low idle” position, as shown in my Brickyard photo. Its not a big problem, just that the idle speed will be incorrect.
  
• F This is the full throttle limit solenoid which is not required. The wiring to it can be tied up out of the way but won’t be used
  
• G This is the wire to the “Commencement of injection solenoid” AKA “cold start solenoid”, which is out of sight behind the pump. It advances the timing when given 12V and will drastically reduce the amount of white smoke on startup. If you don’t presently have white smoke on startup, it may be that the injection timing has been advanced on the pump timing, which will mean that the engine will be more noisy and “dieselly” all the time. When you fit the new cam belt, it’s imperative to get the timing set right, as per the VW instructions for the Polo or Skoda Felicia. The solenoid will then sort out the white smoke at startup.
  
• H The throttle cable bracket is not ideal, producing an extra bend in the cable, and it will be very close to the engine cover. Compare that with my picture on Brickyard, which shows a much better arrangement
  H Sorry, I've got two Hs on the drawing. The other H is the two wires to the injection pump solenoid. One of these is connected to the black "ignition" wire to the engine. 12V=engine runs, 0V=engine stops.
  
• J This is the wiring to the oil pressure switch and temperature sender for the glow plug relay. If you set the timing correctly, the engine probably won’t start easily when hot, so the temperature sender will need a 600ohm resistor in the lead to correct that.
  
• K Cam belt cover is needed for safety. You have said you’re already on to this. Here’s a photo of the three piece cam belt cover for an AEF.
  

 
  

• L This is the original dipstick for the AEF, and because the engine is at 50 degrees in the T25, it will be useless, and won’t give any indication of the oil level. The dipstick should be on the other side of the engine. A CS, KY, or JX dipstick and tube would all be ok, but you do have to drill a hole for it through the engine block as in the Brickyard thread.
  
• M The small braided back leakage hose is sandwiched between the supply and return hoses here. They will rub away at one another due to vibration.
  

 
  

• N There should be a plastic bung in this hole. All will be fine until you drop a nut or a lump of grit into the bellhousing and it gets jammed between the flywheel teeth and the bellhousing. I’ve seen loads of them missing, but they are there for a reason.
  
• P I don’t know what this relay is for, but it may be a split charge relay to charge the leisure battery.
  
• Q As someone else pointed out, it looks like the coolant bottle has had some kind of accident, but more of that later.
  
• R The supply pipe to the injection pump from the fuel filter unit should really be translucent, so you can see if air is getting into the fuel supply. It makes diagnosing problems a lot easier.
  
• S The auxiliary belt is taking the short route without an idler pulley in what would normally be the power steering pump position. Now I’m guessing a bit here, but it looks as though a shorter belt may have been run around the wrong side of the water pump pulley. This avoids the belt rubbing on itself, but means that the water pump rotates backwards. The pump would still produce some flow like this, but not enough to fully cool the engine. Could this be a reason for the problem with the coolant tank I wonder? If you could post a photo of the aux belt routing, taken through the open number plate flap, I could work out what’s going on here. If my guess is correct this is likely to be the major problem with your engine’s installation, and will have to be sorted out.
  
• T the immobiliser has been removed from here. That is good!
  
• U There is a vent tube here for the cooling system from the cylinder head. I don’t know what‘s going on here, but it would be good to cap it off right back at the cylinder head.
  

 
  
 Summing up. Most of the items mentioned don’t affect the operation of the engine much at all, but would tidy up the installation a lot if sorted out, especially the wiring. The ones that are vital to get right are the auxiliary belt routing, getting the timing correct, and connecting the commencement of injection solenoid either to a timer or manual switch.

[colinthefox]

Looking more closely at J and C, it looks like both temperature senders for the temp gauge and glow plugs are in the plastic bypass hose spigot, so you would be better off leaving it as is and just tidying up the wiring. I still can't be sure that the temp senders are the right ones though. The glow plug sensor might even be better for this application, you never know. Ideally you want something like 15seconds glow time when stone cold, and 3 or 4 seconds when hot.

[colinthefox]

And looking more closely at P, I think it looks more likely to be the "hot start relay" modification, installed to try to improve hot starting. The hot start problem would actually be that it needs a shot of glow plugs to start even when hot, so if It's a "hot start" relay it's not doing anything to help. Or it might still be a split charge relay. To find out which, if you pull off any of the connectors and the starter won't work, it's a hot start relay, otherwise it's split charge.