rear wheel bearing cases

Post by **phade** » 14 Feb 2007, 20:51

Unfortunately it was more than just the odd clonk or two, it was continous very loud banging from the rear N/S wheel. The wheel its self nearly came off (the wheel bolts were tightened correctly to 125 lb ft) and became dangerous to continue. It also came with little warning, I had about a few hundred yards to stop.

When I had a look at the play on the rear N/S wheel, it was massive to say the least. I also had a look at its driveshaft and felt hardly any play nor graunching at all.

Post by **HarryMann** » 14 Feb 2007, 23:01

If the driveshaft and it's CV joints turn out to be fine, then you will have no other option but to replace the wheel bearing case and it's spacer.

So if case = bearing housing as you say, then you're saying replace the housing and the spacer?
This isn't normal to say the least, replacing the bearings themselves and the seals would be. If the housing and spacer are seriously damaged, then that would be rare, and either due to the vehicle being run for a considerable time with totally shot bearings, or more usually being run with the main axle nut not torqued up to 500 N-m after a refit.

Mind you, we've yet to hear from DM if he's even checked the bearings or wheel for play, but seems he might now be thinking its the CV joints

Post by **phade** » 15 Feb 2007, 17:20

I thought it would be rare too, but I also noticed on my campervan that there was a very slight dent in the wheel arch (from a previous owner) that may have in part damaged the wheel bearing housing.

I just took every precaution and wanted to make sure that I didn't have to constantly replace the rear N/S wheel bearings and it's shredded seals.

dalmationman · Post by **dalmationman** » 15 Feb 2007, 17:27

I have grabbed hold of the axles on both sides and waggled them about vigorously.
The axle where the tapping noise comes from moves about more than the one on the opposite side, so I reckon it's worn. Also the rubber housing around the CV joint does not seem to be as puffy as the one on the other side and there is some grease on the axle outside of the rubber boot.
Worn CV joint I reckon, but that's not a technical investigation.

Anyone in Staffordshire fancy a weekend job ?

Post by **monkeynut** » 15 Feb 2007, 19:41

This might sound like a silly question but has the bearing case its self been tightend up to the correctly ? that would explane any clunking with wheel rotation

dalmationman · Post by **dalmationman** » 15 Feb 2007, 22:45

Do you mean the big nut in the middle of the wheel, Monkey ?

Post by **phade** » 16 Feb 2007, 10:22

No, he meant the wheel bearing housing its self.

There are four bolts which hold the wheel bearing housing onto the rear trailing arm. The correct torque for these is 140Nm, Do these bolts up gradually one at a time and be careful not to crack the wheel bearing housing.

Here's another quick tip too when it comes to removing rear brake drums to get at the wheel bearing housing. Remove the brake drum and wheel hub together (as my VW booklet suggests). This will make access to the wheel bearing housing a lot easier.

If a brake drum is difficult to get off, do NOT apply heat (also mentioned in the VW booklet), use a large gear puller instead

Post by **HarryMann** » 16 Feb 2007, 11:30

Do these bolts up gradually one at a time and be careful not to crack the wheel bearing housing.

Phade, think this wording might be a bit misleading, gradually -Yes; one at a time - maybe some have a twin-action socket set

)

Sorry, joking apart, maybe - In stages, to the final torque ?

Might be worth mentioning that they are big, 22mm? forget, but a flange-drive socket driven on hard is what I found gets them off, one is a s.o.d., might need a flat-ring spanner to get it loose - poor access.

Clean those mating faces well, so they sit nice and true upon assembly, VW using something like this between them, to keep moisture and corrosion out:
Chromate assembly paste

If the brake drums are badly stepped and hook up on the shoes, even a puller will have trouble, so try to unwind the self-adjuster as much as possible first and ensure hand-brake cable is slack. I usually drift then from behind, through holes in the back plate. Always replace a badly stepped drum.

Further info in Wiki:
Brakes Rear brake servicing

Have Wiki'd your comments Phade.

Post by **phade** » 16 Feb 2007, 14:36

Soz that's what I meant, didn't make it clear enough.

Post by **Spannerrack** » 16 Feb 2007, 18:41

I changed mine remove
wheel brake drum
brake cable clamp flexy pipe disconect metal pipe
inner cv bolts 4 bolts holding bearing houseing
relpace with good sh 1, job done 2year later still going strong

George

Post by **phade** » 24 Feb 2007, 10:46

Just as I thought it was just the wheel bearing housing that went, sadly it looks like I'll have to replace the CV joints anyway. It's started to knock and bang again (3rd time so far) after driving on the M25 for just under 50 miles

I'll keep everyone posted on how it goes after I've replaced them next week.