Coolant Fan question

[CovKid]

Just ordered myself a temperature controller and probe. Not sure where I'll bolt/mount the probe but I like the idea of being able to get the fan to kick in far more accurately with fine adjustment and have a direct reading of water temperature. The downside perhaps is that the stock one by its nature is very simple and therefore less likely to go wrong, even if somewhat vague. For that reason, the chicken switch stays. Worth experimenting with though.

[CovKid]

Incidentally, the fan can draw 36 amps (or more) flat out - hence the need for the relay when the fan is running at top speed.

[Ian Hulley]

Obvious answer - you bridged the wrong ones. Common sense says bridge one fat with one fat and then one thin. Main power would be carried by a fat wire, switched low power by thin wire, switched full power by fat.

Yes sir, it looks like I did...I've just re-read the post from Ian....thanks

Top Muppetry !

It'll be fine, as I said the fans themselves are remarkably resilient. Swap the thermo-switch and all will be well

Ian

[chris7ian]

Whilst on the subject of radiator fans - mine has decided to whine like a bitch sometimes - is there any way to quieten it (lube?) or is it time for a new fan?
Is it a difficult job?

[boardmonkey]

Top Muppetry !

Yep, Class A...

Fan is fine

[CovKid]

Rad thermo-switches don't last long. Had my camper about 10 years and replaced the switch at least 3 times. And no, it makes no difference where you buy them. They just corrode regardless.