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Re: Older and newer DG engine compatability

Posted: 03 Feb 2016, 22:13
by silverbullet
Alloy housing = propane lamp.
Rusty cap-heads = Irwin nut busters.
The stat covers are best replaced because they distort with old age, so the o-ring leaks and it all gets worse.
The M6 bolts will snap off but at least on the syncro part you can find all of the tappings from underneath and drill them out cleanly.
Helicoiling is always an option if the job goes wonky...

The plastic ones are a joy when the little bolts sieze in the housing inserts, then just spin.
Reach for club hammer and obliterate.

Re: Older and newer DG engine compatability

Posted: 03 Feb 2016, 22:50
by CovKid
Early thermostat housing can be the stuff of nightmares as I found and why I wrote such a detailed 'how to' in the WIKI. Those Irwins are an almost essential part of my toolkit now. I don't use them often but they can save several days of swearing and grief. They even shift stubborn CV bolts and as you know, they're totally round with seemingly nothing to grip.

I quite like the early setup (mine is) but VW clearly didn't. Its as well to remember that prior to that (the first three years of the T25) VW fitted Aircooled engines while they worked out whether the vehicle was going to be a success or not. Some degree of trial and error followed when they fitted a watercooled and even then it was basically the Aircooled lump with water shoved through it. Vanfest devotees snubbed the T25 back then (remember it well). It took at least 10 years before it was regarded as a proper v-dub in its own right. In reality the T25 was the last of them. By the mid-90s you could pick T25s up for £150, in fact my first one was a van and only cost £50. :D

Re: Older and newer DG engine compatability

Posted: 04 Feb 2016, 06:54
by Mocki
CovKid wrote: By the mid-90s you could pick T25s up for £150, in fact my first one was a van and only cost £50. :D
those were the days...... never paid more than £100 for a t25 breaker in them days ......

Re: Older and newer DG engine compatability

Posted: 04 Feb 2016, 07:11
by kevtherev
silverbullet wrote:Alloy housing = propane lamp.
Rusty cap-heads = Irwin nut busters.
The stat covers are best replaced because they distort with old age, so the o-ring leaks and it all gets worse.
The M6 bolts will snap off but at least on the syncro part you can find all of the tappings from underneath and drill them out cleanly.
Helicoiling is always an option if the job goes wonky...

.
Proof that the lesser faff, was the right option.
The housing has been in several years now.
I'm sure that all that above awaits, but for someone else.