Club 80-90 Forums

Use a stiff nylon bristle to clean jets
Float bowl must be hospital clean.

Thanks again for your help.

Im trying to get to the jets - but cannot seem to find an easy way to access them to clean them up.

On the side of the carb with the fuel inlets there are three screws holding a plate. I removed this hoping to get to the jets but cannot seem to access them. This could be the 'power valve' or whatever weber call it.

I've not removed the lower part of the carb from the manifold yet. Would that help?

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Fu ... -_Pierburg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks COVKID - but its a weber carb

E D I T - after some more internet searching I've found this:

Is this like yours?



The jets you see in the middle of the carb are very finely calibrated and consist of idle jets, main jets, emulsion tubes and air corrector jets - take them out and clean them, blow out with dry compressed air. Make sure you keep the right jets for the right barrel. ie. Jets for primary barrel (choke side) and secondary barrel, they look very similar for both barrels, but are in fact different. There are also "progression" holes drilled on the body near the throttle plate amke sure these are clean too.

Thanks for the reply Kev. Yes the picture does look like mine.

I've cleaned out all the idle and air jets - with no success. They were not clogged up and I used some fishing line to poke through to check. I did them one at a time so I didn't get them mixed up as your correct they look very similar.

After I put the carb back together , the van starts but will cut out if I dont keep the throttle high. Without throttle , the revs get lower and lower until it stops.
I am now going to try the progression holes.

Just a thought - could the idle cutoff solenoid be the cause? Im unsure of a way to test it. I could check its getting an electic current with a multimetre - as there is only one electic cable coming in Im guessing its earthed using the body of the carb and engine.

Regards

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You should be able to hear the fuel shutoff solenoid click if it is operating correctly when 12 volts is applied, I had similar symptoms when I changed the pipes on mine as I had knocked the spade connector off the solenoid. If you are unsure that the solenoid is operational you can open it up and remove the pin that shuts of the fuel supply and see if it runs.

Hi all,

still struggling with this problem. I've cleaned things out as best as I can - but still the van cuts out at idle.

I've taken the whole carb off the engine and sprayed everywhere I can get to. I've also removed the idle mixture screw and idle solenoid and sprayed there. I expect the mixture is wrong now and will get it checked properly once I can drive to a garage.

One thing - Im unsure if this is correct or not: When the engine is stopped but ignition is on and the electic fuel pump is pumping away. When I have the air intake (pancake) off I have noticed the fuel keeps flowing and builds up in the secondary barrel. I've this normal or expected?

Thanks again club for your help.

no that's not right
There's a stop "cock" that stops fuel entering the carb float bowl.
As the float rises in the bowl it should shut off the supply
Is your electric pump set too high a pressure?
Is the return line blocked?

Could be over-fuelling then. I know with my carb, the original float valve couldn't deal with the additional pressure from an electric pump and i had to replace the valve. Was fine then. In fact anyone fitting an electric pump would be well advised to put a carb kit on.

Thanks for the replies guys - much appreciated.

I will check the return feed just to rule it out and investigate the shut off. I'll post some pics of the mechanisms in the carb as everyone likes pictures.

RIght I've had another investigation.

The return fuel feed isn't blocked - so thats one thing to rule out.

I've taken the carb apart again and the float and needle valve stopper all seem to be fine with no obvious damage.



Following on from CovKids comment - this could be the reason the extra [ressire on the needle float value. Please could anyone explain what a carb kit for an electric pump is? Or any other ways of reducing pressure?

Heres a pic of my fuel pump (looks very generic) - there didn't seem to be anything to change on it.

I have something like this for the webers on my kitcar, without it the float chambers overflow.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 51&alt=web" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

There are cheaper types around, but they may not flow enough and cause fuel starvation, maybe someone else can advise on that.

Thanks for the reply. I may well go and buy a similar regulator.

Just wondered if anyone has anything similar fitted and could offer some advice as to where to mount it?

Right wish me luck ,

I've bought a Malpassi Filter King Fuel regulator and will spend the weekend trying to fit it and adjust settings. I think I recall a post somwhere saying 3.5PSI is the max a weber carb can handle. Fortuntely I've also bought a Gauge so I can see the exact pressure.

Not sure where to mount it - but I'll update this post with my outcome.