Evening Emma, sorry for the delayed reply.
Yep, that's perfect from Brickworks. There's also the return line which you should probably replace at the same time. The kit you posted goes from tank to fuel pump - including the filter which is found just behind the tank under the driver's side - then there's another set of pipes that return from the fuel pump back to the tank on the other side. This is the Brickwerks item for the return lines, check with them it'll fit your CU engined van... I reckon it will.
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Firstly, if you aren't equipped to raise your van, this can all be done by crawling underneath as the hoses are all accessible, just use a flat cardboard box or something to allow you to slide under relatively comfortably. Luckily the only tool you'll need under there should be a screwdriver.
To empty the tank is simple, though much easier if it's not very full, obviously. Storage of the fuel becomes a bit of an issue if you have the full 50 litres on board, that's a lot of jerry cans! Hopefully there's not too much in there in which case all you have to do is remove the clip with a screwdriver that joins the first short section of hose and the filter, quite near the tank, pull the hose off the filter and then simply tuck the free end of that hose down into a suitable container and let it drain into there. You can get cheap 15 litre plastic fuel containers that would be ideal for this in various outlets or pound shop type places, easy to pour the petrol back into the tank afterwards, too. Whatever container you use, just bear in mind it's easier if they can stand upright under the van... the tall metal jerry cans or large plastic water containers would need holding at an angle and you wouldn't be able to fill them completely that way, but use whatever you can get hold of. The diameter of the fuel pipe is pretty narrow, so you won't get a scary gush of petrol at all, it takes a while to fill a can and if you have to swap cans half way through you'll lose hardly any petrol.
You probably won't need to study the Haynes manual really - the two ends of the lines are at the tank itself (bottom of the tank at the rear of it) and the fuel pump in the engine bay, so it's simply a question of starting at one end or the other and replacing one piece at a time, copying how the originals were. The feed and return hoses both travel through grommets in the bulkhead behind the engine (obvious when you see it) but that's not a problem, you just need to push the new hose through from one side or the other, doesn't matter which, and pull them through from the other side. Probably best to start at the tank by the driver's side and do the feed line first all the way to the carb, then repeat for the return line.
There should be simple plastic clips holding the old hose to the chassis here and there under the van, easy to get the old hose out of those and push the new ones in. If any are broken or seem to be missing, simply use standard plastic cable ties (not too tight) wherever you like just to stop the new hose flopping about - there are all kinds of holes in the chassis you can use to thread cable ties through here and there.
There's also a short piece of hose going from the fuel pump to the carb, that will come in the kit you posted up. Don't worry, it's easy to spot - every hose emerging from the fuel pump will need changing, so just do them one by one and replace like for like - easy. Sometimes there will be a little petrol spilling from the pump but it won't be much, nothing to worry about (unless you're smoking your pipe, obviously.) All hoses are held on by basic hose clips that are undone / tightened with a screwdriver, so no mysteries there. The hoses should be on quite tightly so once the clips are undone, don't be afraid to give them a good hard pull to remove, including twisting while pulling if you need to. Similarly when replacing, push / twist them on to their connectors all the way using as much force as necessary and tighten the clips nice and firmly. You won't break anything using force, the connectors at the tank, fuel pump and carb are all cast metal and very strong.
Order new clips if you reckon yours are badly corroded or are hard to undo, otherwise re-use what you have. They are cheap, at least - an email to brickworks will tell you which sizes you need, they stock them all. Of course Halfords or wherever stock them too in a pinch.
Once you have re-attached the last piece of hose, go over the connections one more time just to check tightness of clips. Refuel and start her up - I had no problem starting from an empty line, it may take a little longer to start than usual but if no start, don't panic. A capful of fuel poured into the carb will do the trick, allowing the engine to fire and allow the pump to pull fuel through the empty lines. Just remove the plastic carb cover and pour a little bit of fuel into the throat underneath if that is necessary, but as I said it will probably just start right up.
With the engine running go over the connections again for peace of mind checking for drips, but I bet there won't be any.
I know this sounds long-winded but in practise, once you are getting on with it, it's not scary or complex. Just take your time, have a good look at each part before removing. There are lots of threads around here that probably have better instructions than mine, too, and probably some pics, but don't worry, if I can do it, you can. And I promise you'll be feeling pretty smug at the end of the job having saved yourself the hassle of getting to the garage and back and a couple of hours of labour! It will also teach you how simple it is to change the fuel filter too, which needs to be done when servicing every so often.
OK, that's it. I'll keep an eye on the thread in case you have further questions... you could even let me know when you will be tackling the job then I'll make sure I'm online, just in case I can help at all. Can also send pics if you need any.
Cheers, all the best (let us know if you do this job yourself so that you can be sent various 'thumbs up' emoticons in celebration, ok?)
Tim
Gah!!
