Club 80-90 Forums

Had mine done by a local garage as I just couldn't face the problem with the studs. I enquired afterwards and they said they had a bit of a job with a wry smile.
Steel nuts rusting onto on steel exhaust studs has been the bane of my life.
When I used to replace any of the three boxes on the several Rover 2000's in my family I used Coppaslip and Brass nuts and shake proof washers.
Why can't they do that now ?
There were five Rover 2000's in my own family because I ran the local Rover Owners Club Branch and had an endless supply of cheap Rover 2000's from people who wanted them to go to a good home.

Mini's were the same brass nut shake proof washer. Never had a problem.

All suggestions taken on board here, thanks for the ideas.

Won't be going so far as removing the engine though!

The Stainless system I picked up from JK was branded "Preservation" and came with all gastets and bolts, got it for a bit under £350 in their sale (Well worth waiting for!)

http://www.justkampers.com/vw-t25-parts ... odels.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Dont have an Oxy torch here but might try the Plusgas and hammer first, whatever works I'll let you know.

Thanks all!

Dave.

blacky wrote:It may be advantageous to drill into the nuts on one side just enough to avoid damaging the stud thread ( though a midges dicky wont hurt ) to weaken the wall on one side whereby it may just break through, or a tap with a good quality sharp chisel will possibly persuade it to split then you can run a die nut up the stud if needed and fit new nuts
That way you're not putting any strain on the stud whatsoever. Though I do agree with the earlier post that these jobs can very easily escalate

I'll second that approach, it has always worked for me

Mark Foss wrote: Hope to make the task easier by removing engine and working on it from a bench. Loads more access and can chop of most of the old system with a grinder. Give the studs a good wire brushing loads of penetrating oils etc get the oxy/acet going and fingers crossed.

Good luck with it Mark, I took my last mild steel one off on the work bench ... of the 8 there was every size from 14 down to 8mm heads except 13mm 3 sheared off, 1 came out with ease-outs but 2 had to have nuts wended onto them ... they came out immediately, surrendering faster than the Italian Army.

Ian

[/quote]

Good luck with it Mark, I took my last mild steel one off on the work bench ... of the 8 there was every size from 14 down to 8mm heads except 13mm 3 sheared off, 1 came out with ease-outs but 2 had to have nuts wended onto them ... they came out immediately, surrendering faster than the Italian Army.

Ian[/quote]

Cheers Ian

weimarbus wrote:

blacky wrote:It may be advantageous to drill into the nuts on one side just enough to avoid damaging the stud thread ( though a midges dicky wont hurt ) to weaken the wall on one side whereby it may just break through, or a tap with a good quality sharp chisel will possibly persuade it to split then you can run a die nut up the stud if needed and fit new nuts
That way you're not putting any strain on the stud whatsoever. Though I do agree with the earlier post that these jobs can very easily escalate

I'll second that approach, it has always worked for me

Thats cos you and me's the biz Weimar Coulsdon?

I realy don't know what all the fuss is about , mine came off easy and new one went back easy peasy
I must be a jammy git

Dazco wrote:I realy don't know what all the fuss is about , mine came off easy and new one went back easy peasy
I must be a jammy git

Better born lucky than rich etc

Hmmm. I changed an original exhaust quite recently - blowing, with several previous welded repairs. I wondered at the time why the previous owner hadn't fitted a new system, the test of the van was A1. Soon found out.

After the first two studs broke despite heat penetrating fluid and care, it was engine out, off to a machinist to get the totally rusted suds drilled and rethreaded and then a top-end refresh seeing as it seemed daft not to at that point.

At the end of the day, you'll have to replace the system some time so there's no hiding from it in the long-run. Might be easy, might not but either way it's a bullet that must be bitten! Good luck anyway, and whatever happens it's always worth it the next time you're heading to the coast in the evening with the windows open and the engine farting away at the back with a shiny new pipe.

Has this been fitted yet? Just wondering the outcome and the quality/fit of the JK stainless system.

I did this job earlier this year with the speedshop system. I literally soaked all the studs in plusgas for two weeks prior to the job, tapped them with a hammer and blasted them with a hand held blow torch until they were really hot. They came out fine, although it was VERY nerve wracking. I think in the restrospect I was lucky and probably a bit foolhardy to attempt it myself. Consider these two things: are you capable, prepared and equipped to make the necessary repairs if the worst happens OR, can you afford to pay someone else to clean up the mess? If the answer to both of those is No, then I would bottle it and pay a garage 100 quid or whatever to fit it for you. Having said that, if like me you like living dangerously have a go!