1981 2.0cu , distributor replacement, oh dear again, Update!
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- tobydog
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Re: 1981 2.0cu , distributor replacement, oh dear again, Update!
The outer electrode of the rotor arm looks bent down, should it be like that? Also, the outer part of the arm looks like it's been worn away. Is it the correct rotor arm for the cap?
Knowledge is power
1970 CU
1970 CU
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Re: 1981 2.0cu , distributor replacement, oh dear again, Update!
Hi again guys
The fuel pump relay is tachometric one that I bought and wired up ( as per diagram on here ) after reading some threads on here.
That's been on there a few months.
The Rev counter is a vdo one and was fitted around the same time.
I only put the dizzy on about 2 or so weeks ago and haven't used it at all but it immediately melted the rotar arm.
The one in the picture is the one that came with the dizzy and it's an optical illusion ( it's not bent ) but it's a bit scuffed from me scraping the melted plastic off.
I have put my spare one on to try that but it didn't make differance .
I will disconnect them and try it in the morning.
Sorry big herb, I meant to say yes, the rotar arm is turning.
The fuel pump relay is tachometric one that I bought and wired up ( as per diagram on here ) after reading some threads on here.
That's been on there a few months.
The Rev counter is a vdo one and was fitted around the same time.
I only put the dizzy on about 2 or so weeks ago and haven't used it at all but it immediately melted the rotar arm.
The one in the picture is the one that came with the dizzy and it's an optical illusion ( it's not bent ) but it's a bit scuffed from me scraping the melted plastic off.
I have put my spare one on to try that but it didn't make differance .
I will disconnect them and try it in the morning.
Sorry big herb, I meant to say yes, the rotar arm is turning.
1981 2.0 cu, westfalia.
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Re: 1981 2.0cu , distributor replacement, oh dear again, Update!
Hi guys, update !
I have removed the wire for the Tacho and the wires for the fuel pump relay.
But now I've made the school boy error and can't remember what wires go where.
Also all the wires seem to of been hacked about and joined etc in the past, how many wire should I have goi g to the coil and what cour should they be and where should they come from or go to ?
Cheers for your patience
I have removed the wire for the Tacho and the wires for the fuel pump relay.
But now I've made the school boy error and can't remember what wires go where.
Also all the wires seem to of been hacked about and joined etc in the past, how many wire should I have goi g to the coil and what cour should they be and where should they come from or go to ?
Cheers for your patience
1981 2.0 cu, westfalia.
- sarran1955
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Re: 1981 2.0cu , distributor replacement, oh dear again, Update!
Hello,
Photos always help..
You have several issues here..
1. The wiring is hideous...
2. The dizzy is sitting 90 degrees out of its best position...
3. The coil is a Bosch transistor type so should be OK
4. That is not a Powerspark rotor arm...
My video gives the details of the new loom.
Here's the linky:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkyBAMMHpa4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Let's get the ignition sorted before worrying about the tacho.
When you get used to the Aircooled bus..best rpm best gear..You will appreciate the little red dots on the speedo..
Cordialement,

Photos always help..

You have several issues here..
1. The wiring is hideous...

2. The dizzy is sitting 90 degrees out of its best position...

3. The coil is a Bosch transistor type so should be OK
4. That is not a Powerspark rotor arm...

My video gives the details of the new loom.
Here's the linky:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkyBAMMHpa4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Let's get the ignition sorted before worrying about the tacho.
When you get used to the Aircooled bus..best rpm best gear..You will appreciate the little red dots on the speedo..
Cordialement,


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Re: 1981 2.0cu , distributor replacement, oh dear again, Update!
Hi Sarran
I quite agree, the wiring is a bit Frankenstein lol
The rotor arm was the one that came with the Powerspark dizzy that I bought from Simon BBC.
I have tried the old rotar arm, no differance.
I have also fitted a new Lucas coil today that was recommended by Simon to match the high energy dizzy.
Again no differance.
The leads are New Bosch ones but I have tried the old coil lead, again no spark.
I have a ignition switched live at the coil.
The fuel relay was a hella one which I have removed .
I have removed all wires apart from the live that comes from that little black box .
If I ground the lead from the coil and turn over, it dies a weak spark once when you turn the key and once when you stop turning it over ?
As for being 90 out, I don't understand that cos I put to tdc as per video and slotted the new dizzy in?
And it was running well until the spark loss incident .
I quite agree, the wiring is a bit Frankenstein lol
The rotor arm was the one that came with the Powerspark dizzy that I bought from Simon BBC.
I have tried the old rotar arm, no differance.
I have also fitted a new Lucas coil today that was recommended by Simon to match the high energy dizzy.
Again no differance.
The leads are New Bosch ones but I have tried the old coil lead, again no spark.
I have a ignition switched live at the coil.
The fuel relay was a hella one which I have removed .
I have removed all wires apart from the live that comes from that little black box .
If I ground the lead from the coil and turn over, it dies a weak spark once when you turn the key and once when you stop turning it over ?
As for being 90 out, I don't understand that cos I put to tdc as per video and slotted the new dizzy in?
And it was running well until the spark loss incident .
1981 2.0 cu, westfalia.
- sarran1955
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Re: 1981 2.0cu , distributor replacement, oh dear again, Update!
Richiee722 wrote:Hi Sarran
I have removed all wires apart from the live that comes from that little black box
There should be no remains of the old system..all you need it the ignition live to the coil +ve..which then feeds the carb electrics.
The dizzy connects + and - to the coil..that's it.
If I ground the lead from the coil and turn over, it dies a weak spark once when you turn the key and once when you stop turning it over ?
Should be a healthy spark.. you need insulated pliers.
As for being 90 out, I don't understand that cos I put to tdc as per video and slotted the new dizzy in?
The body is 90 degrees out..I hope you mean that you set the static timing at 8 degrees BTDC.
We'll get there..
Cordialement,


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Re: 1981 2.0cu , distributor replacement, oh dear again, Update!
Hi, yet again big herb.
I'm afraid I'm a bit unsure of it all now.
I'll tell u exactly what I did .
Turned pulley to tdc so timing mark pointed to 0 on scale and rotar arm pointed to No 1 lead.
Removed old dizzy, dropped new one in and made sure the lug was in the slot and nipped up.
Started engine, put the timing light on my spare battery , turned dizzy untill the mark moved around to 8 btdc.
Nipped back up, took for a run and all seemed good until the melty incident.
I'm not sure how to rectify it if the dizzy is 90 out ?
Do I just turn it ?
And not sure how to do static timing ?
I obviously need to watch some of your videos ( and leave things alone ).
Cheers for your patience and your help.
Regards
Richard
I'm afraid I'm a bit unsure of it all now.
I'll tell u exactly what I did .
Turned pulley to tdc so timing mark pointed to 0 on scale and rotar arm pointed to No 1 lead.
Removed old dizzy, dropped new one in and made sure the lug was in the slot and nipped up.
Started engine, put the timing light on my spare battery , turned dizzy untill the mark moved around to 8 btdc.
Nipped back up, took for a run and all seemed good until the melty incident.
I'm not sure how to rectify it if the dizzy is 90 out ?
Do I just turn it ?
And not sure how to do static timing ?
I obviously need to watch some of your videos ( and leave things alone ).
Cheers for your patience and your help.
Regards
Richard
1981 2.0 cu, westfalia.
Re: 1981 2.0cu , distributor replacement, oh dear again, Update!
hi i know this is a really old thread hope dont mind me asking question as im sort of in the same boat. swapping engines over both 2.0 Aircooled ones early with all the bits and my new engine has single vac its all wired from the coil to distributer and carbs but need to know where i get the feed for new coil so if getting rid of the amp and idle stabilizer is it a wire from ignition to + on the coil and if so where does the other wire i think black come from?. im sorry to hijack the thread been asking but getting nowhere so hope dont mind