Camper Jam Fail, Bearing? :(

[CovKid]

Whack the breaker bar with a club hammer. The shock normally does it. Similar technique doing them up the last bit (ie one smart whack) gets them to correct torque. Good that they are hard to shift - if you think about it.

[silverbullet]

Remember to put an axle stand under the bottom balljoint, so all your effort goes inyto undoing the bolts, not compressing the spring damper rubbers.

[pionte]

It seemed a fairly certain response regarding overtightening by Silverbullet, I was sold! What can I do to not overtighten these myself?

This is a write up that i did a couple of years back when I changed my front bearings, it explains how I was taught as an apprentice mechanic to tighten tapper wheel bearings, may be of help .



https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=122485" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[silverbullet]

Front wheel bearings should be set with end float 0.06 - 0.08mm, once set the nut has a lip that is punched down into a groove in the stub axle to fix the setting (do not re-use an old hub nut)

A dial indicator is essential unless highly experienced

[pionte]

Front wheel bearings should be set with end float 0.06 - 0.08mm, once set the nut has a lip that is punched down into a groove in the stub axle to fix the setting (do not re-use an old hub nut)

A dial indicator is essential unless highly experienced

well I am highly experienced,qualified, trained certificated etc etc... I have never once seen any mechanic use a dial indicator to adjust a wheel bearing , I doubt most home mechanics will have one, if people dont feel confident tackling the more advanced jobs then perhaps they should take them to a garage . I think I suggested in my original post that it was a feeling that you get with experience, but the technique I suggested will work well. If in doubt I expect Halfords sell the gauges relatively cheaply.

[Omegaman]

Gents. Thanks for your help. The passenger side was the same but less rounded. I have tonight borrowed a breaker bar and impact socket so full ahead tomorrow hopefully.

Fingers crossed back on road to mot shortly

[HarryMann]

Definitely hark Ian's words about using heat in those areas... I've never known the need.
It does show that the wheels haven't been removed recently!
unless they were done back up far too tight (100-130 ft-lbs is about right).

Always carry a 2 ft powerbar and 19mm black impact socket in case you need to remove a wheel. 22mm flank drive also good for those brake carriers and 24 for the rear bearing carrier

[Omegaman]

Well the good news is, my super grip impact socket arrived and lo and behold a little heat and a breaker bar meant I could loosen the caliper carrier.

The bearing is well and truly knackered! some melted mess which was the bearings innards meant removing the disc was difficult but manageable. The inner race was even bent - complete failure!

Hopefully get the other side off tonight and refit ready for MOT. Finger's crossed!

Thank you all for your advice.

[Omegaman]

Slightly early celebration, when the bearing collapsed, it has obviously damaged the stub axle thread which meant my shiny new brake disc and bearing assembly wont go on. The hub nut won't bite with the thrust washer, so looks like I might need a new steering knuckle unit. I don't think there is enough metal left to use a thread file on.

Like this one: -
http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic ... b73bd17517" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

This guy never seemed to get a conclusive answer as the forum thread descended into a slanging match. I couldn't see him resolving it.

Also to add to the fun the caliper piston wont push back for the new brake pads, are there any tips? I have read about possibly it is skewed in the pot meaning if I push the brake pedal it might sort itself out a little (cap is off the reservoir btw), either that or I might need a new caliper.

Therefore there are some questions,

How easy are these to do yourself? It mentions in the Haynes about a 'special VW tool' which looks like a press. What needs pressing in?

will I need to do the ball joints while I am there?

Any help greatly appreciated before I give up and find a garage to get it to (but without a thrust washer I don't want to risk the wheel falling off). Whilst mechanically competent, when they start mention special tools etc I get worried, can anyone put me at ease? I couldn't find a steering knuckle replacement guide in the wiki, so Haynes is the only way!

[silverbullet]

Lets try not to go there eh?
If the new nut wont pull up then yes you need another upright, a pic might help to be 100% sure.
Does the van have PAS or not?

[Omegaman]

Lets try not to go there eh?
If the new nut wont pull up then yes you need another upright, a pic might help to be 100% sure.
Does the van have PAS or not?

It is none PAS, will try and get a picture up but looks more or less like those in the pictures shown in the linked thread.

Just trying t25direct for the part.

[Oldiebut goodie]

The outcome was never posted as we continued by PM! Docklad's was usable safely as mine was. ( I posted that he had it all done and dusted but the debate had continued whilst he sorted it!) That isn't say that yours is though.

[Omegaman]

Quick update: -

Upon further inspection, the calipers are both duff so I have ordered some new ones and taken the decision to refurb properly so will delay the MOT to Sept/October, so that the MOT wont fall 'mid season'.

Going to try a thread file later this week on the stub axle and if not order an additional one.

Thank you for your assistance so far.