first time I've smiled tonight!death and corruption
Starter motor problems, Please help, end of tether
Moderators: User administrators, Moderators
- Hacksawbob
- Registered user
- Posts: 4445
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 07:11
- 80-90 Mem No: 1168
- Location: Lancs UK member 1168
Last edited by Hacksawbob on 11 Dec 2006, 23:37, edited 1 time in total.
member 1168
- Hacksawbob
- Registered user
- Posts: 4445
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 07:11
- 80-90 Mem No: 1168
- Location: Lancs UK member 1168
-
irish.david
- Registered user
- Posts: 54
- Joined: 31 Jul 2006, 04:14
- 80-90 Mem No: 3347
- Location: Belfast
You could try measuring the voltage drop down the main starter cable under load. When you say that the voltage across the starter was 12.6v i assume that it wasn't turning at the time.
First thing to do is measure the voltage across the battery terminals while cranking the starter. Then measure the voltage drop across the starter motor with it cranking. The difference is how much voltage is being dropped across the cable. An alternative way to do this if you've got some long leads for your multimeter is to connect one end to the positive terminal of the battery and the other end to the positive connection on the starter, then crank the starter. The reading on the multimeter is the voltage dropped on the cable.
Voltage dropped is proportional to current ( Ohms law V = I x R ) so a small resistance in the starter cable suddenly become a big voltage drop when the currents get high.
Another thing i've just thought of is how you're grounding the starter motor when you're testing out of the van. I assume you've got it bolted to the chassis somewhere.
If the cables ok then the only other thing i can think of is the main contactor in the solenoid is faulty or not being shut sufficiently by the solenoid.
Good luck
Dave
First thing to do is measure the voltage across the battery terminals while cranking the starter. Then measure the voltage drop across the starter motor with it cranking. The difference is how much voltage is being dropped across the cable. An alternative way to do this if you've got some long leads for your multimeter is to connect one end to the positive terminal of the battery and the other end to the positive connection on the starter, then crank the starter. The reading on the multimeter is the voltage dropped on the cable.
Voltage dropped is proportional to current ( Ohms law V = I x R ) so a small resistance in the starter cable suddenly become a big voltage drop when the currents get high.
Another thing i've just thought of is how you're grounding the starter motor when you're testing out of the van. I assume you've got it bolted to the chassis somewhere.
If the cables ok then the only other thing i can think of is the main contactor in the solenoid is faulty or not being shut sufficiently by the solenoid.
Good luck
Dave
-
syncroand101
- Registered user
- Posts: 1567
- Joined: 27 Sep 2005, 18:42
- 80-90 Mem No: 500
- Location: Somewhere in my Syncro
Re: Easy start!
Andy syncro-nutz wrote:Do you have a good earth via the box to chassis?
As Andy says - double check your earth lead, I had this when I swapped a gearbox and used the earth lead that was on it, swapped starters a few times, double checked all tightness of leads etc. Swapped the earth lead out for another one and hey presto...
- Hacksawbob
- Registered user
- Posts: 4445
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 07:11
- 80-90 Mem No: 1168
- Location: Lancs UK member 1168
- Hacksawbob
- Registered user
- Posts: 4445
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 07:11
- 80-90 Mem No: 1168
- Location: Lancs UK member 1168
take a look at the picture on this page, this is how I am testing it out of the van, I need to know if this is not correct as I am basing the assumption that the starter may be knackered on it. testing completly unconnected to the van just with battry Jump leads and a smaller wire to act as ignition key (jump from spade to main positive bolt)
http://wiki.80-90.co.uk/index.php/All_e ... t_starting
Not got my wallet today so no trip to Maplins, I have some Wire and croc clips I could use.
http://wiki.80-90.co.uk/index.php/All_e ... t_starting
Not got my wallet today so no trip to Maplins, I have some Wire and croc clips I could use.
member 1168
-
irish.david
- Registered user
- Posts: 54
- Joined: 31 Jul 2006, 04:14
- 80-90 Mem No: 3347
- Location: Belfast
- Hacksawbob
- Registered user
- Posts: 4445
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 07:11
- 80-90 Mem No: 1168
- Location: Lancs UK member 1168
-
Simon Baxter
- Trader
- Posts: 3157
- Joined: 08 Oct 2005, 19:36
- 80-90 Mem No: 1
- Location: Huddersfield, WeYo.
- Contact:
You can't test a petrol starter like that for the same reason they don't like starting when the starter bush is worn.
The armature is supported on one end by the bearing in the starter, the other end of the shaft is supported by the bush in the bellhousing, trying to get it wor work unsupported like that isn't going to yeild good results and could damage an otherwise serviceable starter.
By doing what you are doing you are sticking the armature to the stator, they are electro magnets after all.
If you want to test it off the van then use a spare bell housing, but it's not really a good test anyway, you need to put the motor under strain and test the current it draws.
So, the new starter you took back probably started out okay, could have been damaged by the way you are testing it.
The armature is supported on one end by the bearing in the starter, the other end of the shaft is supported by the bush in the bellhousing, trying to get it wor work unsupported like that isn't going to yeild good results and could damage an otherwise serviceable starter.
By doing what you are doing you are sticking the armature to the stator, they are electro magnets after all.
If you want to test it off the van then use a spare bell housing, but it's not really a good test anyway, you need to put the motor under strain and test the current it draws.
So, the new starter you took back probably started out okay, could have been damaged by the way you are testing it.
-
Simon Baxter
- Trader
- Posts: 3157
- Joined: 08 Oct 2005, 19:36
- 80-90 Mem No: 1
- Location: Huddersfield, WeYo.
- Contact:
- Hacksawbob
- Registered user
- Posts: 4445
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 07:11
- 80-90 Mem No: 1168
- Location: Lancs UK member 1168
-
Simon Baxter
- Trader
- Posts: 3157
- Joined: 08 Oct 2005, 19:36
- 80-90 Mem No: 1
- Location: Huddersfield, WeYo.
- Contact:
- Hacksawbob
- Registered user
- Posts: 4445
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 07:11
- 80-90 Mem No: 1168
- Location: Lancs UK member 1168
-
Simon Baxter
- Trader
- Posts: 3157
- Joined: 08 Oct 2005, 19:36
- 80-90 Mem No: 1
- Location: Huddersfield, WeYo.
- Contact:
- Hacksawbob
- Registered user
- Posts: 4445
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 07:11
- 80-90 Mem No: 1168
- Location: Lancs UK member 1168
so from o-level under standings of motors, current flows through outer windings attracting inner magnets in a rotational kind of way, how much space is there between them? isn't th cental shaft held at the rear in a bush and then at the point where it leaves the motor, (I guess not otherwise there wouldn't be a need for the bellhousing bush).
member 1168