Starter motor lesson required...

[what2do]

Was it really £180????? I was none too pleased about that I can tell you. Old vehicles make for twice as much work just trying to diagnose a problem. If it were a more modern van, you would probably not suspect dodgy wiring, thus, eliminating half the reasons for failure straight away - gotta love 'em!!!

[itchyfeet]

Don't you know somebody local with a wbx you can borrow the starter fit it and that will prove the wiring is ok?
Just make sure you give it back within the year
If you were local I'd lend you my spare

[CovKid]

Cost of starter motors on modern cars is ourtageously expensive. Unfortunately some rebuilders now just throw us into the same bracket and don't even blink when they wave the bill at you. I wouldn't pay £180 either, especially when you consider that the bearings and brushes are easy enough to source and you can just buy new solenoids. Where it gets difficult is when the case is badly corroded and/or solenoid screws won't budge.

By and large its the brushes that go - about £5-£7. You do need a beat of a soldering iron for the brushes fitted to the starter case, but its not rocket science either.

[what2do]

The £180 refurb is an in ident that happened to me, I'd explained that it was to be a spare for an old van and suggested that it needed a checking over. Blow me, when it came back, I nearly died. The refurbisher is Bosch registered, all Bosch parts were used and I was told that it was the same as new. To which I insisted it was nothing like new as it didn't come in packaging or with any hardcopy warranty. A total misunderstanding, fortunately, I got a full refund but did lose the original Bosch starter so I was somewhat out of pocket. You live and learn.

[CovKid]

I find it pays to source a S/H one (ebay whatever) and rebuild it as a spare. Its not as difficult as you might think. Dirt inside from the brushes can be a problem but not that much hassle to clean out and fit new brushes. Heck, even the one I got from GSF was £100 (after haggling) but thats cheap in comparison.

Some places will do bearing kits at reasonable cost. Plenty on youtube on starter rebuilding too.

Euro Car parts charge a whopping £303 for a 1.9 starter. Frankly thats taking the pee.

You can pick up a working S/H for about £40-£50 and rebuild that.

I'm old school so this kind of work is easy. I guess we've bred a nation of numpty fitters in recent years.

[what2do]

I find it pays to source a S/H one (ebay whatever) and rebuild it as a spare. Its not as difficult as you might think. Dirt inside from the brushes can be a problem but not that much hassle to clean out and fit new brushes. Heck, even the one I got from GSF was £100 (after haggling) but thats cheap in comparison.

Some places will do bearing kits at reasonable cost. Plenty on youtube on starter rebuilding too.

Euro Car parts charge a whopping £303 for a 1.9 starter. Frankly thats taking the pee.

You can pick up a working S/H for about £40-£50 and rebuild that.

I'm old school so this kind of work is easy. I guess we've bred a nation of numpty fitters in recent years.

I did look at videos on youtube but couldn't find any that helped in the way I was hoping for. Also, I couldn't undo the screws (slot heads) which were on the outside of the casing, I did try an impact driver - no luck and I didn't want to use heat as I wasn't sure of the damage it might do internally. Still fancy getting a spare to rebuild, may have a look on eBay!

[The Bishop]

Well I have ordered a new one for £94 will swap it over and refurbish the old one.

Martin, I've ordered a gearbox bush, how easy is it to get to that?

[what2do]

Well I have ordered a new one for £94 will swap it over and refurbish the old one.

Martin, I've ordered a gearbox bush, how easy is it to get to that?

The oilite bush is simple as long as you can operate your hands/tools without being able to see the part in question. I just took pics with my phone to make sure the rawlbolt was located properly and then continued. No more than a couple of minutes really.

[ghost123uk]

I've ordered a gearbox bush, how easy is it to get to that?

The oilite bush is simple as long as you can operate your hands/tools without being able to see the part in question.... No more than a couple of minutes really.

Gosh, you're good, it took me ages of squirming about, dropping the torch, skinning my knuckles, hammering (tricky), chipping away, levering, swearing etc etc. Mind you, at the time I did not have a Rawlbolt so did not try that method

[The Bishop]

So you screw a rawlbolt into it and pull it out?

[itchyfeet]

Do your self a favour and stick a rag in the bellhousing so you can't drop stuff in there like the new bush, not done it myself but read of it before
remember bush needs soaking in oil before fitting, 24hrs Iirc

[what2do]

The rawlbolt method dorks a treat as does a large screw extractor. Pretty sure it was Itchy that posted pics of the rawlbolt method. Job done.

[The Bishop]

Well I bought a new Starter Motor with Solenoid and no change!

So I got a thick wire and connected it between the trigger and the main wire and it started - so there is a dodgy connection between the battery, via the ignition, to the trigger on the back of the solenoid. It was dark at the time but replaced the spade connector on the trigger wire where it connects to the solenoid (20amp connector- is that enough?). The wire was copper but dull. I sanded it to get a shine. The starter turned when I turned the key, fire up and then stalled (it's been sat 2 weeks so cold) and wouldn't turn again. Took the spade off and reattached it and it fires once and then back to the click.

Now the sun is out I am going to cut the wore back further to see if it is bright or dull throughout. Will also try to trace it back and check other connections.

[itchyfeet]

Ideally need to determine if its wiring or starter.
so it needs some confidence and care but you can briefly short the trigger terminal to the main bolt with a suitabe sized piece of metal, taking care not to touch anything earth.

another safer method is to make up a short lead with an m8 ring on one end, stripped the other and attch to the stud with main cable ( disconnect batt when you fit it) insulate the other stripped end temporarily
then another short lead with a spade terminal on one end, stripped the otyer and connect to the trigger terminal

Reconnect batt then remove the temporary insulation from the stud lead and briefly touch it to the trigger lead.

if you make the leads just long enough you can do this from the engine bay or wheelarch, 1.5mm2 is ok as its short and temporary

both methods provide 12v to the trigger terminal, as happens when you turn rhe ignition key but this eliminates the ignition switch and wiring, if it turns over starter is fine, if not it's probably at fault (assuming earths are ok)

one more thing, whats your battery voltage?

[what2do]

Well I bought a new Starter Motor with Solenoid and no change!

So I got a thick wire and connected it between the trigger and the main wire and it started - so there is a dodgy connection between the battery, via the ignition, to the trigger on the back of the solenoid. It was dark at the time but replaced the spade connector on the trigger wire where it connects to the solenoid (20amp connector- is that enough?). The wire was copper but dull. I sanded it to get a shine. The starter turned when I turned the key, fire up and then stalled (it's been sat 2 weeks so cold) and wouldn't turn again. Took the spade off and reattached it and it fires once and then back to the click.

Now the sun is out I am going to cut the wore back further to see if it is bright or dull throughout. Will also try to trace it back and check other connections.

Be careful trimming that trigger wire, it may be green a lot further back than you'd like it to be!!! Follow Itchy's post above first.