Club 80-90 Forums

itchyfeet wrote:Yeh Halforeds eh
head stud corrosion is a well known issue with waterboxers so you need to keep a high 50% mix for corrosion resistance not freezing and re do it evey two years...

Cheers Paul - I've already read a lot about these vans (considering how we found our van and how quickly we decided to go after it) and if there's one thing that is etched on my mind (if not my crankcase) it's "look after the coolant young man"

Cheers

Chris

(sorry about the crankcase quip for members who didn't read my outpourings earlier in the week)

And to get the website prices at ECP you need to click and collect on line, pay in shop, if you dont they will charge more over tge counter, took me a while to realise i was being ripped off at the counter

Brakes and tyres should really be your first priority in servicing /checking not the engine

itchyfeet wrote:And to get the website prices at ECP you need to click and collect on line, pay in shop, if you dont they will charge more over tge counter, took me a while to realise i was being ripped off at the counter

Brakes and tyres should really be your first priority in servicing /checking not the engine

At least I got the first bit right - I'm planning to collect 8 litres of nectar tonight on my way home - lucky for me and a great tip for anyone who didn't know that. I take the point totally about brakes and tyres - the van has standard size steel wheels with Michelin Agilis tyres looking very good with no cuts or bulges that I can see. The van passed its MOT a couple of months ago and the brake discs look fine but I should check the pads and calipers. Never stripped drums down but this would be a good time...

Cheers

Chris

Tyres can pass an mot with cracks and very old date codes, check your date codes, just changes my spare recently looked great but it was 27 years old
also passed my mot this year then a week later i noticed one rear wheel locking under heavy braking, rear wheel cylinders leaking, mot is only good for that day
brake fluid should be changed every 2 years tgat wont fail an mot either but old fluid could cause brake fade down a long steep hill

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... e#p8002307" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Br ... _servicing" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

thecyrusvirus wrote:Smosh, you must have more nimble fingers than me! Didn't matter which way I oriented the ratchet or which extension bar I put on I could not get a decent turn on the plug in number 1 without removing the airbox.

Or missing parts! haha!

Ah, I bought the plug socket I need online today. After I remembered that the perfect plug spanner was one I had nicked a few years ago - in the boot of my Honda Civic...

I also staggered out of Eurocarparts in Trafford today with 8 x 1-litre bottles of antifreeze. Pretty stuff, but heavy.

It's going to be a busy weekend.

Chris

Once you have drained and run a hose through best you can, refill with all the antifreeze first, then top up, if you premix it you wont get it all in as there will be water left inside
a mistake i have made before

itchyfeet wrote:Once you have drained and run a hose through best you can, refill with all the antifreeze first, then top up, if you premix it you wont get it all in as there will be water left inside
a mistake i have made before

Makes perfect sense. Looking forward to doing this job. I need to get out more...

Thanks!!

Not one single reply to the OPs question.

R0B wrote:Not one single reply to the OPs question.

Yeh was answered in the first reply,
i will translate for you, op got the message

take the airfilter box out for the only difficult plug the rest are easy, you dont need a special scoket

itchyfeet wrote:take the airfilter box out for the only difficult plug the rest are easy, you dont need a special scoket

I have ordered a socket that fits the NGKs (still building that elusive "complete" toolkit) and know just how I plan to do this job - and it will definitely include removal of the aircleaner, which I already did to get the exact measurements of that yellow and orange thingy that I'll be replacing too (gettin' cheeky now).

Again, everyone's advice has been useful.

Chris

itchyfeet wrote:Antifreeze you say
dont waste your money on g12 this is equivilant as said in the listing, you need 50% so 8 litres
Cheapest in small bottles, who would have thought that
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-a ... &0&cc5_866" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
£21.44 all in
can do it evey two years for that no problem

Holy thread revival! I was searching posts to find out if Comma G30 coolant was any good when I stumbled across this little gem - fantastic

Just placed an order for 8 litres of this and with it being only £1.99 for 2 day delivery I should be replacing my coolant this weekend. Now to read the wiki guide again, and again!!!

One question - Is tap water OK to dilute with or should I be getting some de-ionised water?

Gavla80 wrote:

itchyfeet wrote:Now to read the wiki guide again, and again!!!

Gavla80, it's well worth reading this before you start http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/bleed ... 29710.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Many owners think of this as the definitive guide to refilling and bleeding the system. I followed it and it worked for me. I used tap water, but I'd be interested to read what other owners use.

Thanks handsmann... I'll use that then!

itchyfeet wrote: brake fluid should be changed every 2 years tgat wont fail an mot either but old fluid could cause brake fade down a long steep hill

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... e#p8002307" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Br ... _servicing" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Absolutely agree but on a technicality, brake fade has nothing to do with brake fluid, vapour lock on the other hand has.

Brake fade: The reduction in friction between the brake lining (pad or shoe) and the disc/drum contact surface. This is due to the brake temperature exceeding the designed operating temperature of the friction lining, (there is much more I could add).

Vapour lock on the other hand is: Caused by the vapourizing/boiling of the water content in contaminated brake fluid. This leads to gaseous bubbles forming which are 'compressable' as apposed to the fluid which is not. Starts with spongy pedal followed quickly (as the bubbles form) by a 'total pedal failure' foot to the floor.

Martin