engine rebuild trouble

[BOXY]

Set each pair on the compression stroke. Set the gap to six thou with a set of feeler gauges.

[ghost123uk]

Hi Nick, fingers crossed "we" are right and it's as simple as that.

I have to ask though, in view of :-

I took the whole thing apart for new rings, all bearings, oil seals, even put a new camshaft in

But :-

Only thing I would like to ask is should I screw the adjusting screws on the rocker arm until they are just touching or leave them quite loose? should I go around each cylinder on its compression stroke?

Makes me wonder how a man that is capable of doing a major engine re-build has to ask how to set the tappets

[toomanytoys]

No compression on any cyl would indicate yiu poss do have solid lifters and by setting the tappets to 2 turns in you have valves always open..
I never use the 2 turns in on hydro's.. half a turn is all thats normally needed.. 1 max..
also.. new camshaft?? And you are reusing your old followers without refacing them????? Not a good thing to do I am afraid..

[itchyfeet]

new camshaft?? And you are reusing your old followers without refacing them????? Not a good thing to do I am afraid..

not ideal but its done now and no point taking it appart, it'll be allright, probably not doing a high mileage

Half to one turn may be ok but whats wrong with 2 turns?

[toomanytoys]

Because 2 turns always seems to hold the valves open..
seen quite a few heads with scorched valves and seats (from being held slightly open.. )
And seems the adjuster screws are always mullered on high preloaded engines that I have dismantled..
And VW changed it late on..

On all the engines (wbx) I have done I usually set them to half a turn.... install and run them up.. once they have done a test run and everything has settled down.. go round and recheck..

[itchyfeet]

Interesting, mine are 2 turns and compression measured is very good but im going to readjust them as i never did it after the test run last time heads were off.

[agnew1985]

Right. It didn't start! Starter motor turned but not a sausage. However, I have been having trouble with the starter motor which I thought I had fixed but I noticed this morning that when the key was turned to the ignition position no battery light or oil light appeared (they both came on when turned all the way to the start position). I then payed more attention and the lights didn't come on to main beam and the indicators and horn didn't work. By the time I had unplugged the ignition switch and plugged it back in again the starter had stopped turning again. So... new ignition switch needed and see if that helps.
Hadn't realised I needed to have the tappets refaced. Cam shaft is recon not brand new although I don't suppose that makes much difference. Could I get the van started and worry about it in a few months time without any adverse effects?! As for being capable of rebuilding an engine... I'm only learning! I've had no training or instruction so picking up new skills all the time. I knew it was a pretty silly question about adjusting the tappets but I was pretty fed up and just wanted some affirmation that I wasn't completely losing my mind!

Anyway thanks again, I'm slowly, slowly getting there and I do appreciate the advice.

[itchyfeet]

Have you got compression now?

assuming you do....

If its turning over then you can by pass the ignition switch to see if you can get it started then look for the ignition problem
to do this you need to connect a temporary 12v to the coil + terminal with a fuse in line, say 10A you can pick 12v up from the stud in the black box

yes you could measure voltage on the coil but if you have a bad connection or faulty switch then the voltage only drops off when you are cranking and most of us dont have enough hands to measure and crank

dont worry about lifters unless you plan a very high mileage id think you will be ok

[agnew1985]

Thanks itchyfeet. I didn't get a chance to check compression as the starter stopped turning the engine before I got there! I still can't feel any pressure on my finger through the spark plug hole as I turn the engine by hand I guess I can't try what you suggest until I get the starter turning again. I'm really struggling with the wiring diagrams - it really is a new language!

[itchyfeet]

I can help with wiring
but first you need compression, get the batt charged for 12 hours and check compression then we can go from there

[agnew1985]

Well I managed a bit of time today. Since adjusting the tappet screws I've now got about 3bar compression on 3 and 4 but still nothing on 1 and 2. I looked through the spark hole on cylinder one compression and was relieved to see the top of the cylinder! Also managed to replace the ignition switch. The starter motor is now turning over fine, but... There are still no warning lights with the key in the on position, no spark, no horn, no wipers and now when I have the lights on and and put the indicators on or the full beam, the starter motor turns actually the lights/ indicator combo turns the starter even without the key in the ignition. I have no idea how I have done this as I have only unplugged and plugged stuff back in!

[itchyfeet]

Mmm thats a challenge
do you have a volt meter and know how to use it?

disconnect your ignition switch then turn on your lights and hazards and see if the starter turns

also check your trigger wire connection at the starter motor (black red), does it have just one wire or two?

what year van?

is the old ignition sw giving the same symptoms?

[agnew1985]

Yes I do have a volt meter and know how to read voltage with it. With the ignition switch disconnected the starter wont turn so definately to do with the switch. There's a pic of the back of the starter below. There's the main live from the battery with another red cable on the same bolt and then a red and black on the spade on the solenoid. The van is an 88 dg engine. Just been out and put the old switch back on and i think symptoms are the same. Starter wouldn't turn when key in start position (but then thats why i got a new one as i think its faulty), nor with the lights and indicator combo, but did turn with the lights on and full beam on.

[itchyfeet]

Going to be hard to fault find that remotely but im up for it if you are

i wonder if you have shorted something and so i think you must tread carefully

Ok take the ignition switch connector off and make up a shorting link with a male spade on each end and an inline fuse of 15A
insert one end in the red wire terminal of the ignition switch connector and the other in the black wire connector
this is the same as position 1 on ignition ( no fuse normally but im concerned you may have a short)
Ignition powered items should work except lights

do that and see what happens, remove the link once you have tested it

[BOXY]

Before you go too far looking for an electrical problem. The first time I tried setting my tappets as if they were hydraulic my starter wouldn't turn my engine over either. I could turn the engine over by hand using a socket on the fan (CU engine), but it wouldn't turn over on the key. When I gapped the tappets the engine turned over as normal? If you've still got no compression on two cylinders I would guess you haven't set the gaps correctly.