stripped engine ready for removal

[itchyfeet]

Ahh my first car was a 1300 mk2 in red
That was a cast iron engine
I imagine you were some what younger then

Anyway I said possibly the easiest engine YOU will remove I doubt he has a mk2

[pionte]

lol... yes young and stupid ! I built and raced Hot rods ( 1660 cc ) so was always taking them in and out... have you seen how much MK2 Escorts go for now ! I smashed up so many and Mini's

I still managed to take out my T25 Engine on my own, and did the clutch on my own, but my body isnt as forgiving as it was

[123-jn]

Well I've got the heads off, they look ok except for the mating surfaces around where the jacket seal goes. These are pitted in places which no doubt doesn't help with the leaks. there are small cracks between the valves on 2 cylinders but these look superficial. Can anything be done about the pitting? can I brush the surface with a brass brush to get the crud out of the pits and fill it with something? and then block it smooth? I haven't split the case yet it needs a good clean and the gudgeon pins taking out so I can see the wood for the trees. It's not rusty in there but 3 head studs need renewing and the water jacket seems full of powdery slimy deposits.

[itchyfeet]

Clean the surfaces with wet and dry the dirco on both sides of the seal will fill the pits when reassembling
I have read people have filled the pits with instant metal compounds but probably depeds on how bad it is

Time you got some pics up on this thread

Loads of rebuild porn and info here

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=120790" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[123-jn]

Well cleaned up the heads today, valves are ok as are the seats, lateral play in guides is in the worst case 0.8mm best case 0.6 max is 1.2 so looks ok. I cleaned up the valves and heads and lapped in the valves in head 1. I've taken some pics which I will post soon. I have filled the seal mating surface pits with plastic padding liquid metal which is apparently water and oil proof , and blocked it flat. Now for head 2. At present I've left the old top seals in place to protect the sealing surface until I,m ready to refit. I,m waiting for some new circlip pliers in order to get the pistons out.

[itchyfeet]

Ideally need straight and right angle circlip pliers
Straight for cly 2 &4
Right angle for 1&3

[kevtherev]

Clean the surfaces with wet and dry the dirco on both sides of the seal will fill the pits when reassembling
I have read people have filled the pits with instant metal compounds but probably depeds on how bad it is

Time you got some pics up on this thread

Loads of rebuild porn and info here

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=120790" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

yes I can vouch the filling of the pits with chemical metal, then wiping the excess off.

[Mocki]

What's all this stripping it down to get it out business? We have never taken more than tinwear off , mostly don't even bother taking the alternator off , one jack under the gearbox one under the engine van on halfords car ramps
Drop it down and out . 50 mins including catching coolant ! Deffo never taken the oil filler off .

[itchyfeet]

From my experience if the gearbox is left in oil filler must come off
I'm sure with experience there is the quick engine out method but most of us don't have that experience
Personally I prefer to remove as much as possible before removing the engine its all coming off anyway if the heads are coming off and I find it easier working alone with only a small shed t work in

Not saying its the only or best way but its what I do

[123-jn]

original plan was to drop the whole lump however the oil filler beat me. Couldn't get either nut off due to clearance and rusted nature. This required exhaust off to get at the engine bar nuts and bolts also corroded then engine support bar. I got carried away up to and took everything I could get at off. This left a manageable lump with no high bits sticking up so I could drop it just 18 inches to the floor. Nice and easy. Pictures are coming.

[123-jn]

Dont know if this works a few photos on here.
http://s1275.photobucket.com/user/123-jn/library/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
yes it does work. You can see the liners just about showing the cross hatching still visible. I intent to measure up and if within tolerance I plan to deglaze the bores with a hone in a drill, any advice? The last time I did this was not good and I never found out whether it was my glaze busting or a mates ring fitting but the fog behind my reliant was very thick!!!

[Mocki]

From my experience if the gearbox is left in oil filler must come off

We are talking about a wbx here, just to be clear?

[pionte]

I had to take the oil filler of mine, gearbox was left insitu , exhaust still on . one of the nuts is a real pain to get too... 1 flat at a time maybe with a hoist its possible to get the angle, but I had me and a trolley jack.....

[NicBeeee]

From my experience if the gearbox is left in oil filler must come off

We are talking about a wbx here, just to be clear?

Got to admit, I found that if the gearbox is left in place then the engine would not clear the input shaft with the filler tube still in, if I was able to remove the plastic outer from the tube then yes it would have done it, however it would not budge and I found that I was not able to pull the engine back far enough without the tube fouling the rear cross member if I lowered the rear of the gearbox or not. Would love to no how to do it otherwise.

[itchyfeet]

From my experience if the gearbox is left in oil filler must come off

We are talking about a wbx here, just to be clear?

Yes this i a thread about 123-jns wbx