1600 ct overheating

[benlawlor85]

Serran is the man on these engines. Watch all his videos. watch again, and then watch once more you will learn so much. As for the flaps ditch them. The thermostats never work anyway. I have recently bought a SVDA dissy and beru blue coil from Simon BBC not fitted it yet tho. Mine is a 2l Cu tho. These engines are very basic. Check timing, check valves. and away you go. As fo it overheating how do you know its overheating? If the dipstick test is passed. id suggest its not overheating and could be something else. Also its worth getting the carb setup properly if its not been done so far. Im sure serran has a video on it.
Good luck and dont listen to the people saying swap it out those engine are fine, just take is steady.

[988mick]

I might be way off but I think you need to sort the timing I'd say.a lot of mechanics know nothing about these type 4 engines and set them up using the principles of the upright type 2 bay engines.

[fatboytrev]

Hi again, thanks for all help. Have been watching the vids Sarran. Think I'm getting my head round it now. Had a chance to take some pics of the engine bay today. One thing I noticed when comparing my pic to Sarrans video for the svda dizzy is I appear to have only one vacuum pipe attached to it, but 2 outlets. The one from the rear if you like goes to the carb but nothing on the other. What would this do to the running?

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[SILVERFOX2013]

hi m8 looks like you pipe from distributer vacume advance is not conected if you have a haynes book this shows a diagram the pipe should go from left side of carb to vacum on distributer look at my engine before retro fit this is how halls ignition is vacume advance is set this could be way engine is over heating
it effects timeing at higher revs

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[SILVERFOX2013]

in fact looking at your engine the most of the vacume tubes/pipe are not correctly conected you must get/ look up in hayns manual its in the carb section
your ignition has no advance timeing set this way so dont drive or start up till sorted i scaned a picture if you can see it go by this this is for 1600ct halls electronic igntion only NOT RETRO FIT VDA DISTRIBUTER

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& the garage defo dident get your engine timeing correct with the pipes conected like yours

[SILVERFOX2013]

fatboy trev if you get stuck pm me and then phone me i will try my best to help iv been to hell and back with my 1600ct engine but have learnt a lot from this site & sarran

[fatboytrev]

Hi silver fox. In the photo you posted of your engine, I notice a pipe on the top left corner. It comes out of the rear bulk head in cream coloured pipe and then goes into a larger rubber pipe, it then looks like it goes into the left hand side inlet manifold....from what I can see in the photo. I don't have this in my engine bay, what is it fella?

I've ordered a whole new set of vacuum pipes as they are all over the place, and so loose. I have traced them all except I can't figure out where the hose from the rear of vacuum unit on the dizzy goes, according to the diagram in the haynes manual, it goes somewhere on the left of carb just above the by pass cut off valve, but that's where the idle screw is?? Also the hose from the rear of the vacuum unit on the dizzy in the diagram on page 63 goes to the rear of the carb and splits attaching to the vacuum unit on the carb with the hose from the throttle damper going to bottom right corner of the carb. However on the pic on page 73, the throttle damper connects to the carb vacuum unit??? Im confused which is the right way?

[sarran1955]

Hello,

Good thread...

Looks like you are getting along fine....

A connected up vacuum advance will help....

You will need to look at the number of hoses to the plastic big box air cleaner..

2 or 3..

Because there are 2 models..

Take a photo please...

Cordialement,

[fatboytrev]

Hi sarran

It has 4 outlets on the airbox as per the diagram in haynes manual. That bit im ok with, its the confusion with the carb connections. In your video for fitting the svda dizzy you show a std car setup factory spec right at the start. This shows the throttle damper connecting to the carb vacuum unit. Where the haynes manual diagram is different. Ive googled pictures and every ct engine has a different vacuum hose setup. Which is right? surely the haynes manual? Or not.

[sarran1955]

Hello,

Yes the Haynes is a bit confusing...

This is because all the photos are of their 2 litre works vehicle, and all the CT stuff is a pretty poor manual cut and paste job..

Really make sure you have got the right picture..

The 1st CT engine in my SVDA video is a'82 model 2 pipes on the side of the main air box (held with a metal gripper thingy)..

With Hall effect and so on.... but not for long..( this will be the second part of SVDA retrofit video)...

The second is mine.. an '79-'80 model..(one of the first imported to France)) with 3 pipes...

Check to see what you have got....

Cordialement,

[fatboytrev]

Saran, check the air cleaner box. My box has 2 sets of 2 outlets for vacuum hoses so 4 in all.

[fatboytrev]

Have now replaced all of the vacuum hoses. They were all over place. Hadnt started her up for a couple of weeks since we came back from chill and grill. Started lovely which is good. Compression test and timing on sunday....will tell by compression test if vavles have stayed as set. Then ill take it for good run sunday afternoon and she hiw she fairs. Hopefully next update will be food news. Also checked all the air intakes etc with a squirt of wd 40. No changes to the running so thats another thing ruled out.....getting there slowly.

[fatboytrev]

Hi all. Another day with head in the engine bay! Firstly compression test was all good at around 140 on all 4 cylinders. However, I do have the short NGK spark plugs fitted, halfords didn't have the long ones so will order some tonight and get them changed. There's even a bloody great sticker on the tinware showing only use the 19mm plugs

As for timing, well that was fun! Firstly it appeared to have been set at 18btdc! So loosened the carb, then got distracted by kids....whilst my back was turned the carb must have rattled loose and the engine just stalled, wouldn't restart no matter what I did...idiot .

Couldn't get the bloody thing started so the timing must have got properly screwed...anyway 1 hour later, a bit head scratching I managed to reset the timing back to zero, hey presto started first fick.. then preceded to set at just around 5atdc.

Have been out on a good run down to the beach for a few hours, all seemed good. Engine did appear hot so did a dipstick test when I got home. Hot and hurt a bit but not burnt my fingers, so assumed ok. Popped back into house came back and noticed puffs of smoke coming out of the side cooling vents on the rear qtr panels. Burnt oil by the smell, lifted engine cover all looked ok but did notice small wafts of smoke around van interior for a while after. Hopefully just burning off some old oil from around he engine...will take it for another run on Thursday when I've changed the plugs, might do the ht leads too and see how she gets on and if there's anymore smoke. Anything I need to worry about

Anyway thanks for all the advice guys, this sites great , hopefully the more I'm learning the more ill be be able to add to other posts too .

[fatboytrev]

Update. Had a look at ordering new plugs last night. It would appear I do in fact do have the correct plugs fitted. According to NGK website engine codes before ct065010 have short plugs mines something like ct045..so that should be ok. Think I will still replace plugs and leads to be on safe side though. Was reading through silverfoxes posts and I seem to have the same running problem when accelerating ie slow to pickup through gear change a little flat. Wonder if thats why garage set timing so badly as it was a lot spritelier when I first drove from their.

More work to do me thinks...

[SILVERFOX2013]

hi fatboytrev you are getting thier may i suggest a test i have found out for testing your distributer halls ignition firstely remove dizzy cap and see if any movment anti clockwise by grasping rotor arm this will indicate worn distributer needs replacing . and then check clocwise it should move & spring back .
the other method is when you check timing with strobe and its halls ignition 4/6 deg ATDC just blip the throtall and note the timing mark if it goes retarded ie
8 or as mine did 12 deg ADTC for a split second this indicates worn/faulty electronic igntion parts. now i tryed to get a replacment ditributer but none are avalible and as most of the other halls ignition parts are around £60 each ie igntion control unit /idel control/ magnetic contacts sender /your beter off fiting retro dizzy ie svda distributer contact points ect as i did as you know . one last note that the differnt lenght plugs just have a look at amount of thread in the head long or short as most replacment heads are for long reach plugs and if running short reach plugs this can make engine run hot.