CJH wrote:and it's still hose where it passes through the sharp-looking hole in the engine bulkhead.
OK, somebody's been playing beforehand, then - ours has a plastic joiner bolted to the bulkhead, for which BW sell a stainless replacement.
since I'm assuming the R6's lesser resistance to ethanol will show up over time and is not an immediate problem.
If it's decent quality hose, and reasonably fresh, you should be fine. Last summer I replaced a section on ours with some hose left from a length I'd used on my Saab a couple of years ago. That lasted just fine on that car, but on the van lasted a couple of days. The replacement I bought from a hole-in-the-wall car spares place lasted HOURS before it split. The bit that was replaced with is still on the van.
AdrianC wrote:OK, somebody's been playing beforehand, then - ours has a plastic joiner bolted to the bulkhead, for which BW sell a stainless replacement.
Yes, I saw that. Not sure what access is like, but that seems to put a hose clip behind the bulkhead where it might be difficult to get to. I may go for that, or I may simply bring the Kunifer up through that hole via a grommet.
AdrianC wrote:The replacement I bought from a hole-in-the-wall car spares place lasted HOURS before it split.
You've got me worried now - fresh hose, but from a hole-in-the-wall spares place!
"I'm a man of means, by no means....King of the Road!"
AdrianC wrote:OK, somebody's been playing beforehand, then - ours has a plastic joiner bolted to the bulkhead, for which BW sell a stainless replacement.
Yes, I saw that. Not sure what access is like, but that seems to put a hose clip behind the bulkhead where it might be difficult to get to.
Access is better than you might expect, either through the wheelarch or by reaching under the bulkhead.
AdrianC wrote:The replacement I bought from a hole-in-the-wall car spares place lasted HOURS before it split.
You've got me worried now - fresh hose, but from a hole-in-the-wall spares place![/quote]
...in Belgrade...
I spent this evening running rigid 8mm cupro-nickel pipe on both sides - from the filter by the tank to the engine bay via a grommet in the hole where I assume the plastic joiner used to be, and on the other side from the engine bay to the tank return via a grommet in the bulkhead hole. The fixed lines are cable-tied to the chassis with protective sleeves of old rubber hose at those points. While I wait for my new SAE J30 R9 pipe to arrive I reconnected everything with short bits of existing hose.
The cupro-nickel ("kunifer") was easy to work with - quite rigid, perhaps more so than copper, but easy to bend by hand without kinking and easy to cut cleanly with a normal plumber's pipe cutter. The outside diameter is 8mm, the same as the tank connections and the pump inlet, and I didn't attempt to flare the ends, since the tank and pump connections aren't flared. I just made sure I had a good long overlap of hose over the pipe ends.
Kunifer's apparently highly resistant to corrosion, so should last for a good while, regardless of what they start putting in our fuel in the future. The remaining hose runs are all quite short too now, so future hose renewals won't cost quite so much (although it'll take me many years to recoup the cost of 1) the R6 hose I bought in error, and 2) the kunifer!
I also changed the jubilee clips for proper fuel hose clips. So there. Please don't make me do it all again.
"I'm a man of means, by no means....King of the Road!"
My R9 hoses arrived yesterday, so yesterday evening I finished the job by swapping all the short hose connections for the proper stuff. I had plenty of the 5.6mm hose left over to replace the four short pipes to the petrol expansion tanks too, which looked as though they were the original 30 year old pipes. There you go - if you don't have the right type of hose for today's fuel, you'll barely get 30 years out it before you have to replace it.
The petrol filler neck looked good, and there was no sign of petrol sloshing down the sides of the tank, but I couldn't see an easy way to check the top of the tank for signs of corrosion. Do I just wait for the tell-tale signs (petrol smells and water in the fuel) or is there an easy way to check the top of the tank?
"I'm a man of means, by no means....King of the Road!"
