Club 80-90 Forums

I'd like to funnel some heat up to the pop top too, where would you have the outlet though?

I fitted a ts2000 12v timer, that I got for a steal from ebay, to my propex.



It has a multitude of timers so I can have a toasty van every morning

lloydy wrote:I'd like to funnel some heat up to the pop top too, where would you have the outlet though?

would need to see the set up you have buit it would also be possible to build something in if it was say ,stripped to a shell for some reason
there are many ways,
I used 2 of these http://www.olearymotorhomes.co.uk/air-o ... 1210-p.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
drill hole,poke through and spin the big retainer back on,
and some of this to feed it http://www.olearymotorhomes.co.uk/air-d ... 1213-p.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
and a Y bit from them as well, i just pop in and have a root as they have so much stuff they dont/cant list.lol
mm

metalmick8y wrote:it would also be possible to build something in if it was say ,stripped to a shell for some reason

mm

spooky, you must be a mind reader
mines like this at the moment

Hmm, im sure something can be arranged once you decide on the interior format,, decisions decisions
mm

lloydy wrote:At the moment i only have this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBERSPACHER-D ... 1c2592607b" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; I could possibly interrupt the switched supply to the heater from the stat with that remote garage opener, but then i would always have to use the remote. But that could work ok...
Otherwise i'd have to buy the timer to use in conjunction with the stat and wire it up how you did.
Looks like the yellow wire is the switched live

Try just putting 12v to the yellow - should give you a start signal - it should come on as the controlled heat output signal from the switch will not be switched off as it is just a potentiometer between terminals 1 & 2.
Is yours wired like this?



It should be no trouble doing it but you may need to use a double remote relay to switch power on depending upon how your power is switched on normally.
(I only have a switch to play with here - no heater) You shouldn't need to bypass the stat as the relay would take care of that. It looks as though you are using two conflicting systems there, the control knob should vary the heat output and the mechanical stat just switches it on and off. (I am assuming by stat you mean thermostat here not rheostat as the control knob is the rheostat) That control knob wasn't really meant for that heater if the thermostat is not a mechanical one and is actually a rheostat that varies the heat output also. The number and colours of the wires into the thermostat would be of help here!
Bejaysus... does that make any sense?? It would be so much easier if it were in front of me!
Using a mechanical thermostat is a bit wasteful of battery power as the heater has to start up afresh each time the set temperature is reached with its associated hefty glow plug drain.

Cheers for that, mine is actually a d1lc (sorry) and yes it's a rheostat, it modulates the temp by reading the thermister on the air inlet.
You can use it two ways depending on the backplate. 1, like I have with a positive off, or if used in conjunction with a timer you switch around backplate and the on/off is controlled by the timer. I'll keep my eye open for a second hand clock and probably do what you have done. Cheers for getting back to us.