Syncro 4&4 Discussion and Q&A last answered over 2 years ago.
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Call me sad, but i went out for one last drive as i hate sleeping on a problem.. Still makes the noise if you pull the handbrake up, Feeling a little annoyed i pushed really hard on the brake peddle, the noise then stopped, it did return after about 10 mins, but pushing hard on the brake peddle stopped it again? So that must mean, what?
Maybe something on the pads? as the noise was replaced with a slight squeek. I'll check the caliper bolts tomorrow as well as the front hub nut. Do front wheel bearing make that sort of noise then when they start to go?
Progress! Backed of rear shoes and tested, no joy.. checked for any rubbing parts, no joy. Checked caliper, tight. Checked Hubnut, tight. Was contemplating fitting spare wheel and trying that, when I had a peer into caliper..... One of the pads has lost its spring thing. Really hard to understand that as they are less than a year old and from brickwerks, hardly poor quality.
At gsf now buying their best quality, hoping I can fit the pads myself as they defeated me last time. Any top tips?
Top tip, clean the carrier where the pads sit very thoroughly, a file is often required to remove the build up of brake dust and rust, the pads should float with a little free movement so they can slide easily, a little copper slip on the contact points with the carrier and on the back of the pads where they contact the carrier or the caliper.
A thin 17mm spanner for slider pin, most modern spanners are a bit thick (assuming girling - allen key for ATE), only remove the lower bolt and pivot the caliper on the upper bolt, pry bar will allow you to lift the caliper to clear the pads
G clamp to push cylinder in, piece of wood to protect it if required, be aware of brake fluid level, may be necessary to remove some from the reservoir if the pads are much worn
position new pads and lower the caliper back over them
don't forget a little threadlock on the lower caliper bolt when refitting and nip up the top bolt if loosened, shouldn't have needed to
pump them up a couple of times before test driving and recheck fluid level
No that's definitely a crack. Only really old, thin pads that have been fried do that. Fish 'em out of the bin and get them returned for investigation, Simon won't mind as it's a QA matter. The last thing anyone wants is fake parts entering the Brickwerks supply chain, it's happening all the time elsewhere.
1985 Oettinger 3.2 Caravelle RHD syncro twin slider. SA Microbus bumpers, duplex winch system, ARC 7X15 period alloys
My pads look exactly the same, and to be honest it's not the first time I have seen it either....its quite common and doesn't seem to cause any issues, more of a problem is the pad peeling away from the metal backing plate as that can cause the friction material to shoot out the calliper causing brown pants moments...let's see what Mr B has to say on the matter.
I've only seen it when the friction lining gets worn down to the same thickness of the backing plate or thinner. Lloyd said that these went in relatively recently so they'd still be good and thick. Cracks in braking materials are never a good thing.
1985 Oettinger 3.2 Caravelle RHD syncro twin slider. SA Microbus bumpers, duplex winch system, ARC 7X15 period alloys