Loss of power when changing gear...

[KR1S 76]

Just 1

[ewenmaclean]

Hello,

if they are from the ECU, the brown is almost always earth, the green is the tacho speed signal and the grey/white is the dianostic plug. Do you have an immobiliser box fitted? If so the grey/white wire will go to this too. If you want to wire up the OBDII plug, then this should help for wiring - the grey/white is a K-line...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I can't see the intercooler on your picture but I may be missing something. Is your problem now sorted now you've fixed the cracked injector line? I'd have a good look to see what might have caused it - definitely loosen the 17mm bolts on the pump and retighten - and check the seating of the injector pump - mine did work its way loose once.

Ewen

[KR1S 76]

Thanks mate!! will definitely read that!!

Going back to the injectors!! No more fuel leaks!! BUT!! Problem still there!! Still loss of power when I change gears and takes a few seconds to accelerate. Now... Im thinking... Could it be the fuel pump? And could it be that making the extra noise!!?!! Will check the seating.

[ewenmaclean]

Hi,

failing fuel pumps can make a nasty noise, and if it were failing it might exhibit similar symptoms. I've got a 985 and a 971 series pump here spare - both are fine if you need another one and that'd help. If it is the pump check the bosch number on the flat plate on the side - should be something like 0460 404 971 - if you replace the fuel pump it's important the numbers are the same. Some pumps are interchangeable, but others aren't matched to the ECU.

Ewen

[KR1S 76]

OK!!! After a lot of work dealing with electrics, which was a mess, changing the MAC unit and the potentiometer The problem is still there... What a bummer!!! ECU was sent to be checked but is chipped so they could not do anything with it.. But could it be a faulty ECU???... Still slow pickin up when changing gears and looses power when revs are high... Something is wrong and the mechanics dont know what it is!!! Basically they say they cannot do anything more about it?¿
Will get a breakdown tomorow so will post it ere...
Any ideas?? Save me please!!!!!!

[KR1S 76]

OK.. got a bit of info from the garage...

Diagnostics found that multiple faults are present, air mass g70 short to positive, accelerator pedal position sender implausible signal g19, fuel temp sender open or short to positive g81, brake pedal monitor implausible signal, intake manifold temp sender open or short to positive, coolant sensor implausible signal.

Auto electrician checked all the engine sensors and wiring to and from ecu, investigation found corroded terminals to throttle unit with additional wiring broken from throttle unit to waste-gate. rewire and replace terminals to valve, stop light and clutch pedal switch wires have both been disconnected and switches have been installed with incorrect pins, advice that clutch switch is faulty.

still no power over 2500 rmp.

Any Ideas of what is going on....

[ewenmaclean]

it's a bit difficult to help here from a distance, but not all of that makes sense. I would just go through it all and wire it all correctly from the diagrams Phil and I and others on other forums have been sending you.

The statement "additional wiring broken from throttle unit to waste-gate. rewire and replace terminals to valve" isn't quite right for an e-tdi. The wastegate is controlled by the N75 valve which is connected to the ECU directly - the throttle unit also is connected to the the ECU. There is a common +12V feed to all sensors from the ECU - this is the only common connection between the two - it's clear on the diagram I sent you. The wastegate is controlled on an AHU/1z via a pressure feed from the N75 valve, whose actuation cycle is controlled by the ECU.

It sounds to me like you have limp mode. I would check your red and blue pipes to the wastegate, check the wastegate moves, and also check all the wiring.

[KR1S 76]

Still dealing with this issue.

Been trying to save some money to start dealing with this again.

Just looked at a few things I want to do next...
The tube that goes from the turbo to the air filter has a crack, so I imagine that this could be one of the problems.
Just have to change the setup anyways as the one at the mo was leaking oil and was bodged up...

Another thing that I have come across and cannot find info about is about this part


Think it is the MAP pressure sensor. It has like a kind of little pipe sticking out and the pipe connected to this is just hanging down... Would anybody know where this goes connected to?

Hope this gets sorted soon.... it has cost me a bomb to try and fix but still no good results...

Any suggestions.... thanks

[KR1S 76]

Similar to this one...

[ELVIS]

Should connect to ecu.

Did you ever get an OBD Plug wired to k-line?

[KR1S 76]

Thanks E... Had someone to install the OBD so no idea about the K-line... why ask? Would that matter?

Gona check cause the tube hanging down doesn't seem to reach the ECU. And from what I can remember the ECU doesn't seem to have where to connect it to.

This problem seems to be a hellish thing to sort out...

[ELVIS]

sorry, k line is the OBD. So you have fucntioning vagcom/VCDS?

Will have a shuftie on google this afternoon but IIRC there is an early and late 1Z , one has a fully electrical MAP and one is connected to the ECU via the tube/port.

Sounds like maybe you have one 'late' part and one 'early' part

your MAP has the port the ECU should have the port to plug the map into via the tube.

[KR1S 76]

Managed to look at the setup and it's like this


Hope it makes sense...
I was previously talking about the red line...
SETUP....
From the ecu it was connected to the S.V. Valve.
Plus there is another thin tube that leads to somewhere at the front (No idea where to).
The MAP (Red) line was hanging loose and I found that it could have been connected from the S.V. Valve as it had a pipe to connect it to. Hope I was right!

Engine starts well. But the problem starts when I press on the accelerator... it takes a while to pick up. I can sometimes press on it and nothing happens... if I leave it pressed down it takes a few seconds for it to rev up. If revs are high it is not an issue and I can press the accelerator and does ok. (I have taken a video and try and post it up, if I can).

Have not driven it in a while but I can remember that when I changed gears it took a while for the revs to go up when I changed gears and when I got to speed up it seemed as it was going into limp mode and could not speed up... engine sometimes used to judder, but not all the time.

Not even a mechanic could sort this out...

[KR1S 76]

OK here's the link to see what I mean when I press down on the accelerator.

http://s1152.photobucket.com/user/Chris ... 8.mp4.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[ELVIS]

Did you do conversion or did you buy 'as is' ?

Just wondering if you didn't if its worth checking part numbers of throttle pedal if fully electric and/or cable operated throttle pot?

Clutching at straws but wondering if compatibility issue. I know (unfortunately from experience lol ) not all electric vag pedals work with each other.