Compressor for air sander needs to be about 9CFM min. You and get a good one from Screwfix. About £25.
As for paints Etc. as I said I have been out of the trade for ***years, so with modern paints, cant help you there.
I am sure some one will come up with ideas. If not you can always ask your local body shop.
If you run Air tools remember to fit an inline oiler
Paint stripper?
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Paint stripper
Last edited by OLD ONE on 07 Aug 2006, 15:34, edited 1 time in total.
Health has now stopped me camping Etc.
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purplechugster
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Re: Paint stripper
OLD ONE wrote:Compressor for air sander needs to be about 9CFM min.
Yes... mine runs eight
And works brilliantly... for about thirty seconds.
One T25 in London, another one in Sydney.
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speleobod
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Had an isocynate problem with the front of my camper. no amount of Bar coat would remedy the bubbles so stripped it down to metal or in VW case the etch primer with Nitromors Auto Paint remover. You need to mask carefully and wash off properly but it did the business for our 'Herbert' who now has a lovely coat of apint on this front panel which hasn'r blistered.
Distant cousins...Theres a limited supply,
We're down to the dozens and this is why...
BIG EYED BEANS FROM VENUS
Member No. 2134
We're down to the dozens and this is why...
BIG EYED BEANS FROM VENUS
Member No. 2134
Paint stripper?
purplechugster...Another couple of points came to mind this morning.
Forget your bucket of water and washing up liquid when wet rubbing.
Most washing up liquids contain salt, in one way or another. If this gets trapped in any nooks or crannies, it in time will absorb water. And don't use it for washing your van.
Instead of bucket use a spray of some kind, IE garden bug spray. All the time you are working you are using clean water with no bits of grit Etc.
And use a good toilet soap instead of washing up liquid.
If I think of any thing more ill let you know. Unless your are getting bored
Forget your bucket of water and washing up liquid when wet rubbing.
Most washing up liquids contain salt, in one way or another. If this gets trapped in any nooks or crannies, it in time will absorb water. And don't use it for washing your van.
Instead of bucket use a spray of some kind, IE garden bug spray. All the time you are working you are using clean water with no bits of grit Etc.
And use a good toilet soap instead of washing up liquid.
If I think of any thing more ill let you know. Unless your are getting bored
Health has now stopped me camping Etc.
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purplechugster
- Registered user
- Posts: 124
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 12:23
- 80-90 Mem No: 0
- Location: London, or chuggin' along the A303
Re: Paint stripper?
OLD ONE wrote: Unless your are getting bored
No no, keep it coming!
Lots of things coming out in this thread that I hadnt thought of - one of 'em (or more likely a combination) will hold the answer!
Its a shame its looking like a showery weekend - otherwise I'd crack on and update with progress reports! (Or whinge about how much I ache from sanding)
One T25 in London, another one in Sydney.
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"WEAZLECHIN"
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its not just the cfm you need to think about, its the tank size and hp of the compressor motor, i think the minimum of 3hp ? or more for a DA gun, 100ltr tank, in laymans terms £300 ish. if you use 180 grit wet N dry (3m)with water with washing up liquid in you can sand anything flat, you dont just paint over primer, you need to flat it out first (1000) grit. if your using synthetic primer the cellulose top coat will react but celly and 2k paint will go over 2k or celly primer. kurust is as good at converting rust as anything.. use that poundland primer if you want, put loads of coats on, flat it out and spray your top coat(s) on, flat it with 1500, then g3 paste, then t cut, then top quality polish...... BINGO everyones a winner.
just throwing my penny in
if the paint is sound and just rough work your way through the grits until good base
i would never wet flat any more you can get da discs down to 1500 grit now! they are lubricated with zinc sterate so no clogging and you can get velcro sanding blocks for them from SIA plenty fine enough for celly even with the shrinkage mapping etc.
trouble with paint stripper is washing it off with water, unless you have a booth to dry all the seams etc the seams will be damp and the same goes for primer if you wet flat primer is pourous
you can only delay rust with treatments and as said before both sides have to be treated.
had a 150 3 phase twin compressor and at times you still had to wait to use the d/a they require a lot of air!!
do not use 2k isocyante products they are as nasty for you as they sound
body shops use foam mini rollers for primers to reduce their emissions they work excellent and save materials but get ones from paint factors that are solvent proof!!!!!!
if your paint is flat not glossy your thinners are too fast finish your last coats with premium thinners they take longer to dry and stop blooming etc your paint will be well glossy but.........
if you spraying outside be prepared for every insect in the neighborhood to be atracted to your fresh wet paint especialy yellow and white (if their big they just crawl through until they die!)
your best source of information is your local vehicle refinishing factors
2007 solvent based paints will no longer be available!!!!!
so get painting now!!!
good luck with the project
if the paint is sound and just rough work your way through the grits until good base
i would never wet flat any more you can get da discs down to 1500 grit now! they are lubricated with zinc sterate so no clogging and you can get velcro sanding blocks for them from SIA plenty fine enough for celly even with the shrinkage mapping etc.
trouble with paint stripper is washing it off with water, unless you have a booth to dry all the seams etc the seams will be damp and the same goes for primer if you wet flat primer is pourous
you can only delay rust with treatments and as said before both sides have to be treated.
had a 150 3 phase twin compressor and at times you still had to wait to use the d/a they require a lot of air!!
do not use 2k isocyante products they are as nasty for you as they sound
body shops use foam mini rollers for primers to reduce their emissions they work excellent and save materials but get ones from paint factors that are solvent proof!!!!!!
if your paint is flat not glossy your thinners are too fast finish your last coats with premium thinners they take longer to dry and stop blooming etc your paint will be well glossy but.........
if you spraying outside be prepared for every insect in the neighborhood to be atracted to your fresh wet paint especialy yellow and white (if their big they just crawl through until they die!)
your best source of information is your local vehicle refinishing factors
2007 solvent based paints will no longer be available!!!!!
so get painting now!!!
good luck with the project
honestly darling it wont cost much to fix.