Paint Your Wagon - with a roller!

Post by **Pepperami** » 30 Jul 2008, 19:49

I started mine at the weekend doing panel by panel. Acquired plastic cups from work to mix.

Website · Post by **syncrosimon** » 30 Jul 2008, 22:49

Nice paint work pepperami, did you roll out those yellow lines whilst you were at it

It looks like you got an excellent finish on one(?) coat. That black looks like it covers really well. Mine is still only one coat, but has covered all the different colours.

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 30 Jul 2008, 23:26

Anyone seen their bus during or after a spot of rain? The water just runs off. I found it was almost a waste of time even washing it within first few months as nothing really adhered to the paint.

Come to think of it, its almost as easy to put another coat on as to wash it

Post by **desmond** » 31 Jul 2008, 00:21

Thanks for your replies guys.

I have read the Wiki many times and when I tried mixing 15% thinners, it was too watery and literally dripped down the Van so I thinned it out to the best possible amount, at least I thought I had. I've flatted back between every coat, but perhaps I didn't do it enough?

I realise it will have an Orange Peel effect either way, after each coat, but when I flat it back it takes the gloss off it. I was just wondering if there is some kind of alternative where you could use a polishing machine to get a better finish. Anyway, thanks for your replies.

Post by **Joloke08** » 31 Jul 2008, 09:28

Just an idea but since everybodys experimenting a bit couldnt somebody(maybe CovKid) mix up a batch of paint using something like a measuring jug and give acurate measurements of an acurate measurement of rustoleum + an acurate measurement of thinners/white spirit to make up a batch to fill a paint tray?

Im not critisizing just though there are some who have got the mixing technique off to a T and others are struggling with it

I realise Covkid may not need to mix any up cuz his vans now done but maybe somebody still painting whos mastered their mixing technique could use a jug next time and let us know what exact measurements where used to make up the batch of paint?

By using a specific measure it would make mixing it up pretty much foolproof

Huggz
Jodie

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 31 Jul 2008, 10:52

The trouble is, ambient temperature plays quite a part in this which is why the proportions can't be exact. Temperature not only affects the 'flash' (going off) time, it also affects the mix proportions. Even when spraying, some adjustment has to be made for conditions.

In the WIKI I recommended that anyone doing this get some practice in on an old panel or door before they engage with their bus as this enables them to establish the right mix and technique.

We're now at the end of July. Its so hot at the moment, paint is likely to dry or skin before having time to level out. May/June is way cooler which is when I did mine. Again, all this is in the WIKI but I've pulled out these points so people are aware. I don't think anyone will be able to come up with the perfect forumula because of the issues i've highlighted.

In fact when Rob and I did the white bus in the video, it was around this time of year and was much harder to do because of the heat and we had to thin appreciably more than normal. What you're effectively doing is baking the paint before its had time to level and dry off naturally. Thats partly why we managed to get two coats on in the one day. In my view it was too hot and is why I recommended May/June.

Its important when reading the WIKI to absorb all the minor points I raise, not skip to the 'meat' or you could run in to trouble. Its a lengthy article based on what I discovered through trial and error and through issues or ideas put forward by others and does get added to from time to time. In fact I was very much the laboratory rat in all of this and possibly saved major errors for others simply because I made mistakes myself. Personally I wouldn't paint with the temperature as high as it has been - its not good for the finish, or you. Too many bugs as well.

If you're trying to salvage a mess, let it dry completely, flat down and paint when its cooler - end of August or into September possibly. Some 80/90 members say November was good because the cool air allowed for a much longer drying time but as I say, I did mine in May/June so added their thoughts into the WIKI just in case.

PS: As an added comment, it doesn't have to have an orange peel affect. This again is down to how much paint you're putting on and how warm it is. I've certainly had entirely smooth finishes at times. Avoid the temptation to put too much paint on. It simply doesn't pay. Oh, and don't forget to start at the beginning of this thread - theres a LOT in it. First page talks about finish and drying times.

Post by **desmond** » 31 Jul 2008, 12:18

Thanks for taking the time to reply Covkid, greatly appreciated. I did read everything several times, but there are a few things there I am going to try this time around; IE - I will make the paint thinner and not go back to add more when it's drying; which I have been doing to thicken it up. I think you're right about that and that could be where my problem has been.

I've got a measuring jug again and I'm onto the second half today, so fingers crossed.

Thanks again.

Post by **ashman** » 31 Jul 2008, 12:50

I have to agree with Covkid on the temperature making a big difference to how the paint behaves and it isn't the end of the world if it seems to go horribly wrong.

When I put the fourth coat on last weekend I was up at 5.30am masking up and painting, before the sun came up and the bugs started commiting suicide. This seems the best time at the moment if you know it's going to be a hot sunny day.

If you have problems then let it dry right off, rub it down and try again. I made the mistake initially of going back to an area when it dried off too much as it had a couple of runs I had missed and it turned into what I can only describe as Artex - it was head in the hands stuff! The worst at the time was just having painted a whole side on the third coat when the heavens opened and my paint turned and dried into a lovely kind of snakeskin effect - another head in the hands I'm going to cry moment!

I must admit Covkid that I did manage the odd area that didn't have a slight orange peel, but I couldn't get it consistantly though. I'm going to keep practising now when I get the time as that is a challenge for me.

Ashman

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 31 Jul 2008, 17:10

All well said.

Without covering old ground, theres no magic formula other than a 'feel' for whats happening and being aware of the conditions on the day and even they can change quite quickly. Being consistent, whilst a target, is actually very difficult to maintain - I'm no exception there.

I guess theres a certain amount of balancing here. Not everyone drives a £12k+ camper. Some of us have the best we can afford within budget and some are in far worse condition than others so even an orange-peel finish is better than some of the scabbier vans I've seen. Painting should be at the same pace we drive them - as and when.

I was very lucky with mine - bought for £460 on fleabay two years ago - belonged to a local church and had just had a recon engine. Underneath was totally immaculate (impresses the MOT guy each time) but body definately very untidy. In my view the expence of a respray (whilst a nice thought) was just too much for what it is plus I rather liked the concept of a body coating i could come back to if need be and treat accordingly. At worst, if you really do screw up, you can flat and do it again and heck its cheap paint for what it is. I kinda see the process as akin to maintaining a narrowboat and if you get totally bored, heck you can paint it bright yellow if you want to.

I accept (having been in the Aircooled scene for possibly 30 years) that no two owners are alike and many are purists. They're the ones that waxoyl every month, clean out the sliding door runners after each and every trip to the beach, and are in there polishing everything. Each to his own and I love mine but I also expect it to do a days work too. There does come a point, even with type 1's and 2's when you end up spending way more than its actually worth and you should just let your bus/camper/bug live a little too. That is after all, what it was designed for. Compare it to the hi-fi enthusiast that gets wrapped up in technicalities and simply forgets to really listen anymore.

Today I had to meet someone who failed to show up. It was a longish trip and on the face of it was a wasted journey except I got a couple of hours sitting above everyone else and enjoying the ride - nothing wasted in that

Post by **woodola** » 31 Jul 2008, 18:32

Well said covkid we could'nt afford £3000 spray job. It's been a journey but been our own, and whats wrong with a little orange peel, you could always set your wind breakers 10ft away from your bus to stop anyone getting to close. Alternatively you could do as we have and call your bus marmalade

Post by **Joloke08** » 31 Jul 2008, 18:57

I gotta Agree CovKid

The car i currently drive is on lease if i had to buy it i wouldnt of,i think new or newer cars are overpriced,likewise some old classics too

Im also into minis and once upon a time minis were all about cheap motoring and keeping them on the road yourself but no thesedays its not uncommon for owners to spend £5k on an engine rebuild the worlds gone mad i tell you!

I just cant wait to try this on a van of my own but i guess like most others right now were finding things a bit tough so we will get a van but just not yet

Id never say that i myself could do a better job than a paint sprayer but as you say £100 max paint job or £1000 minimum i know which id rarther go for

The thing i like most is that in this day n age if some oik keys ya paint you just flat it down pix up the paint n fix it yourself and your no claims stays intact

Also as you say in much they way we freshen up our homes with a fresh dab of emulsion every soo often we can do the same with our vans;)

Im guessing if your just refreshing the same colour theres no reason why after a couple of years just a flat down and 1 or two coats shouldnt make it look new again?

Even though i aint got my van yet i might get a cheap panel from the breakers and a litre of rustoleum n just practice to perfect my technique for the future

Huggz
Jodie

Post by **carrotman** » 31 Jul 2008, 19:23

Hi, finally got round to posting. I have a VW LT 28 that I bought just under a year ago, great van but like so many older vehicles the dreaded rust is creaping in to bodywork. I have been reading the original thread for some time and have finally got round to sorting the old girl out. Currently sorting out rust and flatting original paint back. Interestingly the skirt had been looked at previously and had been coated with a bitumen based paint over the original, a real pig to remove. Anyway skirt is now rubbed, filled and primed and combicolor RAL 6011 arrived today!! Final sanding to do tomorrow and then hopefully weather permitting get some paint on at the weekend. Total cost to date under £100 including Vactan, Combicolor paint, primer, etc. really pleased to have found this means of painting the van as spraying would have cost over £1000. Will post some pics as soon as I get a chance.

Cheers

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 31 Jul 2008, 21:35

Not so many of the old LT's about and they have more than a passing resemblance to the T25 - just more brick-like. Agree, they're big 'uns and the roller method would be absolutely ideal. Keep it going - not so many around now. Please do post the pics as you go. The techniques are the same and it'd be cool to see an LT get the treatment.

I love the suggestion that there should be a special area at VW events for 'hand jobs' - maybe even VW Roller 2009 or something.

Joloke08's remarks on the spruce-up approach is actually spot on. After I rollered mine, I left it this year to see if any troublespots reappeared so that I could sort those and apply extra coats next year and you're absolutely right about minor scrapes - its very easy to put right without claiming on the insurance. None of this is possible with an expensive spray job which will ultimately be hit with the ravages of british weather and roads anyway.

Also, given the properties of Rustoleum, it probably protects the body better than these two-pack jobs and as Joloke08 has hinted, if you get fed up you can try a new colour scheme - at a price you can afford and at a time/hour/day that suits you rather than months in a spray shop.

Wish someone would do a matt camo job - that'd be a good project with Rustoleum and again, very easy to repair/patch in the event of a scrape.

Post by **Mr Bean** » 02 Aug 2008, 08:14

billymaya wrote:hi covkid cracking job on your van like it alot looking spanking just out of interest could this be done out side? im just imagining dust and flies sticking all over the way paint grrrrr,im seriously thinking of going down the route you have taken as i cant afford to splash out £2000 for a spray job

I do most of my spraying outside as this is the way to get really good light and space to work. I see no reason for this not to work for rollering also. I take the following precautions:
Check the weather and if in any doubt just don't start.
Do all your prep, masking and cleaning before you commence.
Have a good sweep around and pick up all dust and loose rubbish.
Most important dampen down a wide area of the ground around your vehicle with water so dust can't blow in the wind.
And if a mozzie lands on it don't touch. All you will be left with is six (or is it eight) minute footprints when you polish him/her off.
I used to be a celulose nutter but have moved over to coach enamel. With cellulose I found that the sunny (warm) side flashed off quicker and was less prone to run/sag. Conversely with coach enamel the dark (cool) side was less prone to run/sag. I imagine this is the same for roller application. My problem now is that whereas the celulose dried to dust within a metre of the gun the coach enamel stays wet for ever and finishes up on my neighbours property. So maybe this roller application isn't such a bad idea. Although I do like to spray the finish on rather than achieve it by polishing/compounding.

Cheers
Ken
PS I sprayed my mates Corvette with two pack in his converted church building and when we returned to see the finished job all the bugs in the roof had died and fallen onto the wet paint. Bugger1

Post by **urbantreemonkey** » 03 Aug 2008, 11:13

Just got my paint and cant wait to start but i have a question.......
What would be the best thing to use to remove a black tar type paint( think its underseal) thats been painted about 18 inches up the sides of my van?
Thanks shaun