1990 Singlecab II

Post by **DoubleOSeven** » 04 Apr 2021, 18:12

Got Spark from out of spec. coil

but no cough yet, getting closer ... I wonder if the spark isn’t strong enough. Anyway, nearly there.

Post by **DoubleOSeven** » 05 Apr 2021, 10:01

It wants to go, it really does. Had a cough but no joy yet, I’ll wait for the replacement coil now.

(Video of cough, on one man switch)

I took a shim out of the base of the distributor to help it spin more freely, I’m confident this part is ok now. If I was a gambling man, my money would be on the faulty coil, so in a couple of days, we’ll see. Hope.

Post by **DoubleOSeven** » 07 Apr 2021, 11:43

Humpf...

Old Coil: Primary 1.1 ohms, secondary 2.9k ohms
New Coil: Primary 0.5 ohms, secondary 4.7k ohms
Ideal: Primary 0.5 - 0.8, secondary 2.4 - 3.5k ohms

So, I'm getting spark - even with the new coil 'still' being out of spec., I've even come to putting fuel straight into the spark plug hole instead of down venturi on carb., so its there on the piston, but it won't start.

Oh, I did rotate HT leads, 1>3, 2>4, 3>1, 4>2...thinking dizzy was 180 out as 300CE suggested, but no joy there either.

I've run out of ideas now, I could swap out the dizzy I suppose but I am getting spark??

Suggestions on a postcard please;)

Dizzy or my wiring loom I suppose

Post by **300CE** » 07 Apr 2021, 14:46

What a pain in the backside - might be worth giving the hall sender wires a wiggle whilst your trying to start it just in case.

Also do you know what condition the ignition amplifier is in? These can just stop working with no warning.

I’m sure she’s nearly there!

Post by **DoubleOSeven** » 08 Apr 2021, 13:20

Build costs are less than £1400 so far so I'll just throw some money at it !

Ordered an Amplifier, Coil & Distributor - I know, extravagance.

I'll change them in that order too, so we'll know for sure.

If that don't work, I'll just close the garage doors and leave it for a few months

...then have a lightbulb moment about air/fuel/wiring or summink !

Post by **DoubleOSeven** » 10 Apr 2021, 14:36

Dizzy.

Bit rough at the moment, but it runs.

https://youtube.com/shorts/iNV0OHQ9OB8?feature=share

Post by **DoubleOSeven** » 18 Apr 2021, 18:04

Put a new fuel feed line in from tank to pump. Changed the wafers in the key barrel of the fuel cap to match ignition key. One less key required. Just two now, glove box & main key.

I changed all the spark plugs, used a battery booster pack and a couple of tweaks of anti-clockwise rotation of the dizzy & it ran like a dream for 2 minutes nice idle - smooth running...
...then it stopped; off, like a switch (ie not fuel) so it dawned on me, it’s the battery. It was. Wrong battery type. 0 CCA, it’s a leisure battery. So, glad that’s sorted, ordered a new one and that’ll be the engine sorted.

What’s left:

1, I’ve topped up the brake fluid reservoir, it was empty. But no clutch pedal to speak of, or a brake pedal for that matter, so I’m guessing brake master cylinder, hope it’s not the brake slave by the pedals, that’s a tough one in a bus lying on your back, so it must be a ‘mare in a singlecab.

2, Gear linkage thing, thanks ‘Slowcoach’ for the post on that.

3, OSF tyre is flat, so that’ll be fun, getting it out the garage I imagine, but when I get that far, I won’t care too much. I can’t get to it, in its current position.

So, nearly 4 months to the day of purchase and it’s coming along nicely.

Post by **300CE** » 18 Apr 2021, 19:29

Great stuff Martin, big weight off the shoulders knowing it’s almost there mate.

Have you decided on the decals yet and how they’ll fit on?

Post by **DoubleOSeven** » 28 Apr 2021, 12:28

I want patina effect text 'WATERBOXER' in white lettering, in this style you'll recognise from the telly we watched in our youf.
No idea how you go about getting that done, to be honest.

Post by **300CE** » 28 Apr 2021, 14:30

Nice!!

There's a few custom decal businesses on eBay that'll probably be able to do that for you - worth dropping a couple of them a message with your requirement (use the attach pic as an example).

I'm in the process of getting a slammed skateboard made up with Gulf graphics to go in the bus for shows - sounds strange i know, but they look good!!

Post by **DoubleOSeven** » 04 May 2021, 19:56

Running nice now...

https://youtu.be/QGAp6IROu74

Post by **DoubleOSeven** » 08 May 2021, 22:59

Post by **DoubleOSeven** » 09 May 2021, 16:20

Big day today. Wilbur popped round and advised, clutch needs bleeding. So, we bled it and the clutch now works & if the clutch now works it can have its first venture outside the garage

In rust, we trust. I’m quite enjoying these wear lines to be honest.

Post by **DoubleOSeven** » 09 May 2021, 16:41

Born again...

https://youtu.be/_jupAUFDX3k

Post by **DoubleOSeven** » 11 May 2021, 14:29

Gear linkage: Gears 2-3-4-5, like honey. 1, meh. Reverse, well it'll go in after a fight but the ball pops out the cup and I have to get underneath to push it back in. So, if I'm pushing the gear stick forward for reverse then the linkage is pushing the cup too far back. I'm thinking if I loosen the spline joint, and tap the linkage forward 2mm that might do it. I've read the wiki.

Wiring: I now know my T7a connector wires (cut off by previous owner) and where they go, but I don't know what x2 sensors I need for the thermostat, do you? I've got some spare incorrect sensors from my Mk2 in there at the moment.

T7a/1 = Blue / Black 0.3 bar oil pressure switch (Blue Switch)
T7a/2 = Yellow / Red coolant gauge sender (thermostat sensor, I presume)
T7a/3 = Blue / Green low coolant level switch (thermostat sensor, I presume)
T7a/4 = Brown Sender unit common grounds (where is this ground?)
T7a/5 = Green rpm / tacho signal (missing, probably not supposed to have this one, as there is no rev counter)
T7a/6 = Red / Black terminal 50 supply (no idea what this is, or where it goes)
T7a/7 = Yellow 0.9 bar or 1.8 bar oil pressure switch (Grey Switch)

I have a lilac wire...um, not quite sure - now.

Answers on a postcard please, Ta!

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