syncroeleyvagon

For documenting and technical details of T25 restorations and major repairs
This section is for major restorations only.where to buy a panel or where to buy window rubbers belong in the bodywork seats and glass section.
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Plasticman
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Re: syncroeleyvagon

Post by Plasticman »

hmm ,well use a thin slitting disc to make the top cut dependent on how your joining it , like wise the vertical bit , if your seams and the panel are not too bad at the sides then make the cut say an inch in and then weld to this rather than opening a seam up ,
you could go purchase a 2 1/2 brick bolster (remove and silly knuckle guards) then flex pad to sharpen it fit for shaving , and cut through the lower panel JUST ABOVE the line of spots, take care and study my picks as there is stuff in the way behind.
once this is away you are left with the lip spotted to the deformation box, resharpen and chisel it of , then failing a finger file etc big grinder sideways on and clean it up and grit blast it again the job is tool dependent use what you have, there are other ways but this will do fine
mm

Plasticman
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Re: syncroeleyvagon

Post by Plasticman »

well all parts arrived, the lower fronts are abysmal tried 2 different suppliers and they are all dire, so mods we shall make
cut open the ns and at least got to the extent of the crap
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theres a little work to do behoind here
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ive cut some bits of 16g and am rolling a fold to replicate the sill back/btm as no need to fit the whole lot
inner B post
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ditto
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a bit more judicious cutting and 5 bags a blasst grit on oreder :lol:
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bluebus1987
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Re: syncroeleyvagon

Post by bluebus1987 »

Seeing the work you regularly do, and the parts that are available to do it, adds to my distaste when I see so many in similar or better condition, are still being stripped for parts and cut up.
I was looking to buy a Syncro that was obviously rough, but although I didn't get to see it in the flesh, I'm sure was saveable. Everytime I managed to make contact with the seller some other bits had gone missing, untill he said he was selling it all as bits and cutting it up.
I know it is hugely time consuming and therefore expensive, but I think the message should be not to buy one of these unless your willing to tackle the rust. It seems most are willing to take on any amount of mechanical problems but its bodywork issues, major or minor that kills vans.
Well done to you and the owner for keeping this one from the vultures.
Of course I would never buy any second hand parts or body cuts :oops: .

Plasticman
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Re: syncroeleyvagon

Post by Plasticman »

i hear what your saying but vans must be scrapped, by that i mean ,and no disrespect here but vans that are past it and do need £k's spending on them are simply not viable , well at least not when you can put that money plus your purchase price and go buy a nice van,last year i met a couple with a nice van worth 5 ish and told them i wouldnt repair it as to do as i wanted would have made the van stand at much more that its market value.
i believe they put the money to a newer van,
i like many others needs cuts and parts and the only way and often the affordable way is to break them , and if the bodies are nice in places then they command a premium,
what does get to me is the vans that are broken and folk want 2/3 retail for the parts, we cant all be philanthropic but try get into the spirit of the vw ........even a little bit, its not all about ££££££,
mini ranting over
mm :|

Plasticman
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Re: syncroeleyvagon

Post by Plasticman »

Well as i seem to be repairing a few inner sills that are salvageable ive run up a few of the following
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ive to add the pressings etc which will be shown soon
ok the original is 1.5 as near as dam , so made these out of 2mm , ive pointed to the radius of the inner fold, (appx 10mm) there is no technical reason to replicate but aesthetically it matters as i dont want the repair to stand out
mm

Plasticman
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Re: syncroeleyvagon

Post by Plasticman »

well its laid in place nice
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needs lots trimming and adding but main thing is to get the basic profile correct as all other items build off from it
ive only laid the outer sill on to confirm the above
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removed a bit more of the old inner and butt welded it in
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the rear arm mount is now tied to it and when i chop abit more hack away i can then box up the arm/jp mount with the closure plate that i removed to give access
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not the prettiest on the inside but nice where it may be seen externally
gassed the rear, much more pleasure in that , just a light disking and it will be good , the actual join to the X member/jp was with the mig
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a light coat whilst work is on going
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im happy with it and now just the b post inner/jp and its onto nice panel work
oh and this is for another quick project ........yes
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fluorescent ,dayglo pink powdercoat, more to come next week :lol:
mm

Plasticman
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Re: syncroeleyvagon

Post by Plasticman »

well closed the rear arm mount with 2mm samne as OE,
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as its not seen i have avoided grinding flat
coat for now
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so thgats all good as new and a nice base to do the wing/arch to, will rattle of a new c post lower and then wizz the front inner B post off and remake to the new sill, this way there is always a fixed reference point to work from
mm

Plasticman
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Re: syncroeleyvagon

Post by Plasticman »

Well a new section :shock:
im posting this up in the manner and way that we go about doing the repair, its make a bit and keep referncing it to known areas, or we end up with a gap too big or something dont fit, on that basis
this is all that was required above the nsf jp
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again made of 2mm i think also a small part to the front that forms part of the inner B post to outrigger its a usal corner to go
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trial the outer
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and from the inside
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this is to get a general idea that were in the right area
here i have added the outer sill where it would look to fit, and note the swages on the new side panel ,. hence do not tack on until you know the subsequent parts will all line up

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so we start by temp fixing the side panel "then" attatch the sill
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and work from there .
internal
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now i can mark the sill position and remake the inner B opost to suit then know the outer B will be in the correct position too ,
just got to be methodical

mm

Plasticman
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Re: syncroeleyvagon

Post by Plasticman »

well, sorry been out of it a bit,
inner B post needed to add a little note i have scalloped out the reinforcing strip but welded the rest up , this way all i have to do it grind the shape out later and run a small bead round and it is very solid doing them this way

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try to keep as much of the original as is practical, i have spotted the lips as per OE and added the inner reinforcing strip , you HAVE to have this or the assmbly will not work. well it may do for a bit then it will collapse,
next we have the nerw side panel (schifields) and its a very good pressing, it is mated to the std B outer rep panel , so which swages shall we line up with
these
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or these
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i figure i will cut the B skin and refold it
a lot of thisd work is aligning stuff
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and B to side panel
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and side to rear wing
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im happy with it in general so can now remove the outer sill and drill it for spotting then refit up to side panel and tack in place, then when i remove side panel i can be confident that the sill and its associated bits will be in the corect place,
C post is repaired so i will tie this lot in tomoz
mm :D

Plasticman
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Re: syncroeleyvagon

Post by Plasticman »

Well that was a long break.................
as i said earlier, when doing this particular repair you really should start with the inner sill and B post as above, from this all other parts fit so get lazy and you suffer as more gets added.
i also like to keep as much OE metal as is practical ,some recent pattern parts are as near as dammit equal to OE, certainly the front and rear arches and center side panels as supplied by schofields (and others)
on this van the nsf arch is generally very good and i am loath to remove it all for the sake of the usual rear portion to B post, hence i cut the rear parts off and make a new return,
here is the part after a severe blasting together with a curved piece of return lip iv made to add to it
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this way we have new metal in the seam so should be a nice clean join
final check of B post rep skin
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it lines up nice,
i have drilled it ready to spot through, also not i have cut the remnant and will butt weld this join, the rest i have tapped in . reason being ,I dont want a great lump of weld and metal here as the seam has to be straight,clean and free from pod
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this shows what i mean, warts and all till i run a disc over it
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ditto
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this needs spotting and then i will gas up the small seam/join
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here is the top join of the B post repair, again as is and in need of a run over with a disc
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so thats all solid new metal inside and out and i will make the arch to B post tomoz then add lower outer sill,
just a thoiught without teaching egg sucking but when you need very accurate tapping ,hammering etc the try holding whichever hammer suits at the area needed and use another to smack it...... :lol:
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now for tea
mm :D

Plasticman
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Re: syncroeleyvagon

Post by Plasticman »

Well, missed posting for a while but ...
As i said earlier i try to retain as much OE material as is practical so to that end all of the arch is good save for the usual rear edge thus.....
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and
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a bit tricky to get right but
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fits good enough
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and
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now im happy with that its simply joining it to the rest of the arch
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vactan while it waits for next step
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ive not been too happy with the recent bottle of vactan so may go back to the hydrate from bilt-hamber
sill spotted on nicely and it all seems to line up good
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inside treated and will be painted prior to closures fitted
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upper front panal removed, yes it could be saved but it would not last that long, see the obviouse holes as well as the multitude of rust blebs that are not yet visible on the outside
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and
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ditto
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lucky i have a genuine panel to fit, note the cut-out for the washer jet , the definition is perfect and equal whereas the pattern ones are a bit hit and miss, also the vertical curvature on the OE is convex whereas the pattern ones are concave.
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with front panel removed we can look into the inside top of the A post and note NO sign of and past repair or accident damage
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ditto t'other side
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usual corner to reconstruct
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both sides :lol:
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but it will line up nice
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:D :wink:
mm

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nicq
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Re: syncroeleyvagon

Post by nicq »

Nice work
:ok
2.1 Twin slider

Plasticman
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Re: syncroeleyvagon

Post by Plasticman »

Well..
simle cut to remove rot in this corner , then a small fabrication to replace it
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same on the other side
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its very clean under the dash edge which shows minimal condensation run off and the screen seal has been good as well
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.....
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a few picks that might help others see whats in there
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always tape up the heater outlets
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footwells...
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on the face of it ,"minor surface rust" as often described in adds.....
but,after a quick wire brush
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front crusty
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so remove the bulk and this is the underside of the previous picky
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so no matter how much you treat you will never get rid of it without cutting..
as
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this needs blasting etc
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...
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here im pointing at the left part, i cut back an extra 1/4" on the right so i can butt weld the first part of the step and then when i add the outer part it will sit over a weld as per OE and look neater
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O/S is the same
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underside not as bad but still needed replacing
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the outer (seal faces) on both sides have been filled in the past so more may be cut out from that but its only a minor bit more work
am looking for a bare dash pod, pref with a whole in the plaggy for the mileage trip reset button, late type push on speedo
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..
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.
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..
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it has seen better days :lol:
mm :D

scottbott
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Re: syncroeleyvagon

Post by scottbott »

should be nice when it is all done
Nil carborundum illegitimi

Plasticman
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Re: syncroeleyvagon

Post by Plasticman »

indeed :D passat turbo cured,it was tiny hole in the vac pipe..... :wink:
well..
screen corners to be made next
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slowly insert
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placed
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nice little gap to contain the weld, this is the rough state as done
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a light clean up
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and its all new metal, the join under the screen seal will be brazed as OE
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ditto the other side, the gap im pointing to will be attended to when i add the inner return....
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happy days
mm :D

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