T25 Trident 1991

For documenting and technical details of T25 restorations and major repairs
This section is for major restorations only.where to buy a panel or where to buy window rubbers belong in the bodywork seats and glass section.
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JonathanR
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Re: T25 Trident 1991

Post by JonathanR »

A lesson learned - don't grab a sliver of freshly cut metal with bare fingers. The good news is that there is no blood as it cuts and cauterizes in one go :lol: Just don't ask why I was using an angle grinder without gloves.
I've also come to a full stop as all advice is not to work around a vapour filled fuel tank and removal seems like an over complex job with all various pipes, coupled to which I have snapped 1 screw and can't move a 2nd on the filler cap. Everything currently soaking in WD 40.

I was told yesterday by my neighbour that a good friend of his blew himself up welding near a fuel tank so enough said but as the following pictures might indicate I could not resist some cutting but that has all now stopped.

The posts (I think they might be B & C) don't seem too bad although the rear vertical seam on the panel is not brilliant but I will just treat this time round. Two other ponderables is whether I should weld in a strip along the bottom inner sill as the metal is quite pitted with rust - as a newbie welder I would rather avoid but suspect the outer sill wont stick.


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The second debate is how far I should cut in on the closures (MM :ok ). The metal is good and in some respects I rather butt weld or do a bit of joddling to make a flange. Also on the rear section there are a couple of plates which I would like to keep intact if possible.

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Turning to the front section - seams are good - yet to remove last bit of outer sill - and inside is filled with thick paint - again question how far I should cut in.

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1991 Auto Sleeper Trident High Top
Water Cooled 1.9 Petrol

Plasticman
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Re: T25 Trident 1991

Post by Plasticman »

remove all the closures, theres no good reason in your case no to, the very front and rear portion are not welded by vw, they merely form a support and "closure" to which copious amounts of sealer were and are added. all you have to do is drill a few spots out they come away real easy here.for the sealant then use a few sizes of wood butchers chisels, (4 for about £7 from screwfix)
ref the outer sill , you have to remove both bits left at either end that abut the B and C posts respectively
by the look of the lower outer sill , that looks fine from your picky and prior to welding run a cutting dist over it end on and this will scuff it well enough to weld to , (wind your mig up ) any thing more email or pm
mm :wink:
oh anmd ref the tank removal , from your lineage it appears you are trying to undo the 3 screws holding inner neck to outer shroud ? dont. just remove jubuilee clip holding filler tube to rubber, then get a large opoen end spanner or other impliment and insert into filler neck , the correct size will no go right in but sit in the notched bit that the cap locks to, thern rotate anti clock about 3/4 inch and ity come away.oh and mark the 12 oclock position prior to removal to aid refitting as it will only go one way due to differing size tangs

JonathanR
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Re: T25 Trident 1991

Post by JonathanR »

Thanks for the comments Mike. Working on the closures. The reason for taking the outside petrol filler off is to tackle the rust.

Well they say practice makes perfect so clearly I have a long way to go. My joggler arrived today and I made a flange. Popped in some holes and all went downhill from there - or more correctly off piste as the following shows.

Left hole was too little power, upped it for the middle 3 and then more for the final hole which is probably the right power but a pity I missed part of the hole - the joggler comes with a punch but quite small holes.

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I don't know whether I need to put a bead along the join but clearly I should avoid doing it until I learn to run in a straight line. :oops:

Underside to show penetration and a picture of the flange.

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Will have another go but reasonably satisfied that the join held - but next one I will grind down the plugs.
1991 Auto Sleeper Trident High Top
Water Cooled 1.9 Petrol

Plasticman
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Re: T25 Trident 1991

Post by Plasticman »

yes doing as i said will remove the outside plastic thing and the metal neck bit will still be attatched and come away with it, tyou can thren sepparate the lot on the bench.
the punch ius handy for setting the holes but then drill out to the sizes i suggested, , no need to run a weld all along the edge , the spots you have done will suffice and as long as they show the penetration as in your picks it will be fine, and it doesnt matter in this instance if you miss part of the hole.
your doing fine, what mig have you got
mm

JonathanR
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Re: T25 Trident 1991

Post by JonathanR »

I have a Portamig 185 which should be man enough for the job any problems can be put down to the guy holding the torch :D
1991 Auto Sleeper Trident High Top
Water Cooled 1.9 Petrol

Plasticman
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Re: T25 Trident 1991

Post by Plasticman »

a fine machine , with hole say 7mm dia start weld at one side and work in a circular motion , bit like filling a cornet with a whippy machine :lol:
mm

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kevtherev
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Re: T25 Trident 1991

Post by kevtherev »

metalmick8y wrote:...... start weld at one side and work in a circular motion , bit like filling a cornet with a whippy machine :lol:
mm
Perfect description :D
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JonathanR
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Re: T25 Trident 1991

Post by JonathanR »

Well back from a camping trip in far away places.
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Met this little chap - Pachydactylus rangei

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Returned to a demolished greenhouse thanks to storm Katie on Easter day so have been dismantling that - now back to dismantling Buzz. My children named him based on Toy story. They decided that the relationship between my Landrover rebuild - now neglected whilst concentrating on the campervan is a bit like the relationship between Woody and Buzz in Toy Story. The old and the new.

Petrol Tank question.
I've drained the petrol and removed the filler pipe, disconnected the small tubes that run from the plastic containers under the wheel arches (are these attached with one or two bolts?)
Removed the petrol pipe leading to carb and the its return on the opposite corner of the tank.
Undone the clamp bolts.
Nothing happens - it hangs suspended by something so what have I missed?
The support bars are bolted at the front and slot into a crossbar at the rear - I can't remove the bars since the ends are bent over - can I remove by "unbending"? Or should I just leave in place and slide the tank out.
Thanks
1991 Auto Sleeper Trident High Top
Water Cooled 1.9 Petrol

Plasticman
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Re: T25 Trident 1991

Post by Plasticman »

use a jack and a small board to support thee tank , then the 2 straps will drop down at the front, give them some stick i9f they dont, one problem you may have is that if you havent got the van raised high enough they wont drop low enough to slide off, bend the tangs at the rear a bit till they come free,
now youve got them off, lower the jack a touch and give the tank a bit of effort, they do stick as they are a snug fit............
mm

JonathanR
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Re: T25 Trident 1991

Post by JonathanR »

Another day and a new word as mm continues to educate me on correct metalworking terms - tangs - don't look it up in the slang dictionary or you won't look at another tang without thoughts wandering :rollin

Straightened the tangs - picture before and the straps pulled off easily. It was suspended on the vent tube that runs across the tank and a tug pulled the plugs out and out it slipped. Not too heavy!
Image

Unfortunately a lot of fine dirt and I spent a little time reflecting on whether to risk using the hoover.
Image
1991 Auto Sleeper Trident High Top
Water Cooled 1.9 Petrol

JonathanR
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Re: T25 Trident 1991

Post by JonathanR »

Doesn't allow me to post too many pictures - may be too large.
Initially condition looked OK but found this ...

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All the rubbers need replacing and I am contemplating a new tank - any recommendations - JK do a Klockers?
1991 Auto Sleeper Trident High Top
Water Cooled 1.9 Petrol

JonathanR
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Re: T25 Trident 1991

Post by JonathanR »

With petrol tank removed I can now do more cutting but first had to remove this. Not sure what it is but putty like in texture.
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quite thick
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This looks suspiciously like blue tac
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All clean just need to find the last few spot welds.
Image
1991 Auto Sleeper Trident High Top
Water Cooled 1.9 Petrol

JonathanR
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Re: T25 Trident 1991

Post by JonathanR »

Had not noticed before some damage so suspect filler the other side so will cut above.
Image

Did some more cutting of the sill but at either end there is a lot of metal which still needs to be cut away to allow the bottom flange of the new sill to sit nicely - not able to align the edges at the moment. Hard to use the angle grinder in a right angle so am grinding with the file.

This picture doesn't quite show the problem clearly enough but its where about 3 folds all meet by the B & C posts.
Image
Image
Image
1991 Auto Sleeper Trident High Top
Water Cooled 1.9 Petrol

Plasticman
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Re: T25 Trident 1991

Post by Plasticman »

your doing fine, the areas at either end ,B & C are as they should be, you must swage the lower lip of the outer sill so it fits over this area, if you dont and try to do "as is" then you will create a large innward curve into the lower outer sill and this in turn will screw you up when fitting the lower side panel i sent you,
mm

JonathanR
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Re: T25 Trident 1991

Post by JonathanR »

Thanks Mike. Its been great reading your current inspirational thread as I follow behind. I suspect I have the advantage of working with slightly less rust whereas your advantage is you know what you are doing :D.
Have looked at your pictures can you confirm that the flange for fitting the side panel is put in the existing panel as in diagram 1 below
Image
Do I plug weld on the outside or inside - assuming outside as I would be drilling the holes in the new piece.

Looked at your picture of fitting closure panels and estimate your plug hole centres are around 30 mm.
1991 Auto Sleeper Trident High Top
Water Cooled 1.9 Petrol

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