Brilliant Orange Project, bodywork advice

For documenting and technical details of T25 restorations and major repairs
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937carrera
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Re: Brilliant Orange Project, bodywork advice

Post by 937carrera »

Well, I have taken your advice and started wielding the tools.

First job today was to remove the interior, which only took me a couple of hours.

When the rock 'n roll bed was removed a fair sized chunk of metal became detached. Since taking the photo below I have taken the grinder to the bubbled areas to the right of the hole which I think lines up with the main chassis leg. There's some rust present, but at this point I'm thinking some rust converter can take care of that. The carpet trim is now also removed.

Image

On the other side of van I set about removing the sealant under the wheelarch and it there's a little holing on the (not used) battery box

Image
Last edited by 937carrera on 09 Feb 2018, 13:41, edited 3 times in total.
1981 RHD 2.0 Aircooled Leisuredrive project, CU engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine

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New Kentish Campers
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Re: Brilliant Orange Project, bodywork advice

Post by New Kentish Campers »

Personally, and bearing in mind this all a bit new to you, I'd begin on one small part first, like for instance that battery tray. I'd do it from start to finish, apart from final colour coat. That will give you confidence to start the larger repairs.
I do think, and it's only my opinion, it's not a good idea to grind away random areas only because you might get overwhelmed with the tasks ahead and loose interest. Obviously, you need to know so as to budget and get an idea of what you will be needing to do but as you appear to have access to a ramp then that will give you a good helping hand to see just how good, or bad, it is. Read up on previous threads, as has been suggested so you can learn where the usual rusty bits lie and that will aid you a lot.

I don't know if you can is petrol or diesel but if petrol, then I would remove the fuel tank seeing as you are grinding and welding next to the filler neck. I know many people who poo - poo this but better safe than a set of sorry relatives afterward. :shock: and of course, the fuel tanks are often rotting merrily away; lines perishing, etc so one good job out of the way whilst you are about it.

Good luck with the project :ok

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937carrera
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Re: Brilliant Orange Project, bodywork advice

Post by 937carrera »

Moving to the front wheelarch I started making my first cuts. I am not sure how tall the replacement body sections are so have been cautious in my first cut on the B post and only removed a portion of the front wing to allow access / photography. The inner part of the B post looks in decent condition except at the base where it joins onto the inner sill.

Image

This photo was taken from a little further forward so you can see the inner wheelarch. After removing some of the sealant I noticed that there has been a previous repair at the bottom of the wheelarch. As on the inner sill repair the weld has held, but the replacement metal has rusted through

Image
Last edited by 937carrera on 09 Feb 2018, 13:41, edited 2 times in total.
1981 RHD 2.0 Aircooled Leisuredrive project, CU engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine

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937carrera
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Re: Brilliant Orange Project, bodywork advice

Post by 937carrera »

Many thanks for the interest and advice New Kentish Campers.

It's CU engine so 2.0 petrol Aircooled. I'm aware of the situation with the fuel lines / tank etc. As you saw, I am fortunate in having a workshop with a ramp and would quite happily remove the tank etc, but I need to keep the van driveable so I can put my other cars on there as well. The fuel level is very low and I do have extinguishers handy so have taken some precautions.

I have been reading the other threads and am beginning to get an idea of the approaches to be taken / work involved. Part of the reason I am doing this is to develop my skills, there's no fixed deadline, though it would be nice if I could get it done before the end of the summer. I have built cars from a rolling shell before so understand there's going to be a fair bit of work involved. I don't think I'm going to get overwhelmed, especially with all the help available around here. I feel better now than I did this morning (thanks CovKid)as I have made decent progress, That said, I know it's going to take me a lot longer than someone who has done this type of work before, the second one is always easier :)

For that reason I am leaving the left hand sill, with the sliding door until later, as I suspect that could be a lot more complex to deal with

That said, if I start going off track, I'm more than open to someone pointing me back in the right direction, so all advice gratefully received
1981 RHD 2.0 Aircooled Leisuredrive project, CU engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine

restoman
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Re: Brilliant Orange Project, bodywork advice

Post by restoman »

I can send you some pics of some I've done with similar "issues" if it helps?
They are the pics i send my customers as progress updates , so may be of use to you

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937carrera
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Re: Brilliant Orange Project, bodywork advice

Post by 937carrera »

Please do send me the pictures restoman, that will be very much appreciated. Are you going to send them through the PM system, or do you need an email address ?
1981 RHD 2.0 Aircooled Leisuredrive project, CU engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine

Plasticman
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Re: Brilliant Orange Project, bodywork advice

Post by Plasticman »

ok in no particular order, the following is the rear corner /battery box call it what you will. on yours you say a little rust and hole in it, sorry its shot and far easier to replace
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=119181" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
vactan type products are useful but you dont kill rust you have to cut the crap out or you will be back in no time doing the job again and its always harder after a patch or two,
just do each part at a time and dont keep cutting stuff away until you have either the replacement part or an understanding of exactly what and how uou are going to tackle it, trust me its the least arduous way and less tears
Kevs here is good for most areas and rear inner arch and rear 1/4 amongst other stuff
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=93497" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Helens here had bad side from front to rear , note the front jp B post, same as yours,
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=110336" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Clares here had all the usual areas maybe done in a slightly different way
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=114490" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Ange's van again all usual spots plus note the filler area as genuine arch i didnt have in and the pattern stuff so bad as to be useless
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=106511" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Lloyds i think youve seen
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=126173" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
and the lanka im on with so you have about 5000 pickies there, there are more but you will go onto overload :lol:
thing is as others have said, dont hack the van to bits, do an area at a time and unless your doing to learn then sell or your happy to redo like the Forth bridge then cut out and replace , it is also the easiest way to get it right
mm :ok

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937carrera
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Re: Brilliant Orange Project, bodywork advice

Post by 937carrera »

Restoman,

Many thanks for the pics I'll take a good look at those

Metalmick8y,

metalmick8y wrote:ok in no particular order, the following is the rear corner /battery box call it what you will. on yours you say a little rust and hole in it, sorry its shot and far easier to replace

Ok, that's just the sort of clear direction I am looking for :)

metalmick8y wrote:Lloyds i think youve seen
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=126173" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Yep, i spent pretty much all of last night reading through that, nearly got to the end as it was back in blue

metalmick8y wrote:and the lanka im on with so you have about 5000 pickies there, there are more but you will go onto overload

Yeah, been following that one too

I'm doing this to have a decent van for myself at the end of it. I know I could have got a useable one for less than it cost me for the project plus repair costs, but I intend to keep it for quite a few years so want it to be something like right. I'm happy to take a bit of time to try to get to a decent standard, even if it aint a patch on your quality of work, or some of the other experienced posters on here. I'm not interested in a Forth Bridge approach.

Today I did a little more general prep work and found some more holes:

I removed the plastic bottle above the fuel filler and tapped on the recessed area that acts as a mount for the bottle :(
Image

I also snapped the seat belt bolt (partly because someone had put an extra locking nut on the thread which I wasn't looking for) which allowed me to remove the mat and reveal more rust. Is the plate original here or a previous repair - I suspect it's a repair as it had a red oxide look to it but really don't know

Image

Having another nosey at the rear left wheel arch and i spotted a hole at the rear of the inner sill
Image

inside of the right hand body panel. Some signs of rust along the bracing piece. I assume the advice is going to be to get the extended outer sill from Schofields and replace up to the bracing line ? I have yet to remove the trim and insulation above the brace.

Image


and finally here's a pic of the rear of the van, just so that can remind myself that not every section needs extensive work

Image

I think I'm just about at the point where I can do my shopping list :)
Last edited by 937carrera on 09 Feb 2018, 13:43, edited 2 times in total.
1981 RHD 2.0 Aircooled Leisuredrive project, CU engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine

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New Kentish Campers
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Re: Brilliant Orange Project, bodywork advice

Post by New Kentish Campers »

937carrera wrote:Many thanks for the interest and advice New Kentish Campers.

It's CU engine so 2.0 petrol Aircooled. I'm aware of the situation with the fuel lines / tank etc. As you saw, I am fortunate in having a workshop with a ramp and would quite happily remove the tank etc, but I need to keep the van driveable so I can put my other cars on there as well. The fuel level is very low and I do have extinguishers handy so have taken some precautions.

An almost empty fuel tank is lethal compared with a full one. Reason being is the fumes inside the tank are at great risk of being ignited by just one spark. I found this out by bitter experience and can write this only because the fuel tank that went up on me was full so the petrol simply lit as it left the tank ( I'd accidently cut through a plastic fuel line with an oxy-aceteleyne torch in the days before using mig welders though these can also ignite fuel). Had it been less than full, as told by the fireman who had come to put out what was left of the car I was welding, plus garage, etc :roll: then it would have exploded and taken me with it.... :twisted:

So stay safe end enjoy getting stuck into the job :ok

Doug.

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937carrera
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Re: Brilliant Orange Project, bodywork advice

Post by 937carrera »

That's one hell of a source of ignition Doug.

Sort of thing you would remember, glad you came through alright :)
1981 RHD 2.0 Aircooled Leisuredrive project, CU engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine

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937carrera
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Re: Brilliant Orange Project, bodywork advice

Post by 937carrera »

Managed to spend a bit more time on the camper today. The remainder of the interior has been stripped out.

Found a small hole on the inside of the rear side panel, rust towards the base of the right hand battery box and corrosion / a 6"x 1" long hole on the front of the front left hand side wheelarch. Sorry no pictures yet as I forgot my phone.

When the repray was done in 2005 there was obviously a new right hand side rear panel fitted............. I could tell by the silver unpainted metal and white "grab it" that is holding it in place. :roll: Not quite the quality job I have been reading about on here.

I think I'm at the point where I think I need to see the replacement panels to know where to start cutting back to. Here's my shopping list :

Component .......................... Supplier ............................... Quality
Left hand inner sill.................. Schofield .............................. 1.5mm same as original
Left hand outer sill ................. Schofield .............................. Schofields
Right hand inner sill ................ Schofield .............................. 1.5mm same as original
Right hand outer sill ................ Schofield .............................. Schofields
Right B post ......................... Schofield .............................. 1mm mild
Right wheelarch front .............. Schofield .............................. Top Quality
Left rear wheelarch tall ............ Schofield .............................. Schofields
Rear right battery box ............. Schofield .............................. 1mm as original
Lower rear 1/4 panel .............. Schofield .............................. German
Cargo floor repair .................. Schofield .............................. 1mm as original
Seat belt repair panel right .........Schofield.............................. 1mm
Sill & side panel ..................... Schofield.............................. "Not klokkerholm" :roll:

Rear wheel arch liner, left ........ VW Heritage ........................... Repro
Rear wheel arch liner, right ....... VW Heritage........................... Repro
Front of wheel housing.............. VW Heritage ......................... VW Classic

My T25 is an early one so doesn't have wheel arch liners so I want to put some on, if they fit. I'm also not sure if I have properly identified the correct replacement part to cover the big hole where the rock n roll be used to be fixed, above the rear wheelarch to the left of the engine cover

I would be grateful for any comments about my selection of replacement panels. Are they going to be of decent quality, are they likely to fit properly, any tales of joy or sorrow using these parts, or suggested alternatives much appreciated
1981 RHD 2.0 Aircooled Leisuredrive project, CU engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine

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937carrera
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Re: Brilliant Orange Project, bodywork advice

Post by 937carrera »

Well it's been a while since I was on here ( 2 years !) and a lot seems to have changed....

metalmick8y appears to have turned into Plasticman. What 's that all about :?:

Lots of the old links appear not to be working, never mind, maybe the forum structure has changed. I have finally been able to turn my attention to the T25 again, so will be looking for some more help and advice on my first project. I'm hoping to spend quite a bit of time on the T25 over the next couple of months.

As advised I started on an "easy" bit, the rear right battery box. I have cut away the original metal base, together with a rectangle which looks like it had a repair section inserted previously and also drilled out the spot welds. Though I have a full replacement section, I didn't fancy going all the way up to the top and dealing with the various bracing pieces if I didn't have to, so have just cut out the bad bits.

Access does not seem so easy for this job, still some progress was made today thanks to a 90 degree drill attachment and electric finger file.

This is part way through the removal

Image

I then removed the rusty section on the upright. After doing that I cleaned up the metalwork and protected it using a zinc primer

Image

I think the next task is to figure out where to cut the replacement piece, and most importantly get it into the section to allow it to be trial fitted / welded.

I also need to look at doing something with the bracing piece that goes across to the rear wing

Image
Last edited by 937carrera on 09 Feb 2018, 13:43, edited 2 times in total.
1981 RHD 2.0 Aircooled Leisuredrive project, CU engine
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Re: Brilliant Orange Project, bodywork advice

Post by Itsblue »

These things can take a bit of time, ive been doing welding repairs to mine for 3 and a half years off and on , started at the back corner just were you are and worked my way round ,keep at it is all i can say ive just got all the way back round to the rear again :D
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Re: Brilliant Orange Project, bodywork advice

Post by 100leelee »

There's a great app called trello
It's basically a task organised, for me I have 'to do', 'in progress' and 'done'.
It organises you and really helps prioritise and break everything down into smaller tasks.
And it's free

Really helps me on those 'bad' days..!

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Re: Brilliant Orange Project, bodywork advice

Post by bigbadbob76 »

I must say I agree with all on here who say do one little bit at a time, if you cut all the rusty bit's out you end up with no body below the waist line.
if you're replacing bottom of B pillar for example, cut the old one out but don't go too far and don't cross the seam.
As long as you've got some good steel to weld to it doesn't have to be all round at this stage,
Weld in the new bit before you forget what shape it was, you can tack it to crap temporarily if you have to.
The new steel then provides you with something to weld to for the next section.
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