The units are modular and can be easily and quickly installed or removed. No three way fridge as I use a compressor fridge and the idea for using compressed fibreboard for the floor was taken from ‘Grand Designs’ . It is sanded and six coats of Diamomd Glaze applied. Also opted for embossed vinyl rather than carpet for the lining material.
Rear modules removed……..
Pine work surface treated with 6 coats of clear Acrylic. The Plastimo SS combi Hob/Sink is intended for Marine Galleys but I have seen this model fitted in German Motorhomes.
The kitchen unit is fully self containedf and houses the leisure battery, ZIG, relays, Water tank and gas bottle……….
Acces to battery and wiring is made easier by having the ZIG mounted on a hinged panel secured with draw bolts. This panel is part of the van as you will see later……it stays put but, if ever the need arises, the floor and entire interior can still be removed!
Access to the gas locker is via a 'slot and slide' panel construction . Battery is partitioned and relays housed. The plastic rear cover for the zig is not shown as I haven’t made it yet
The gas vent was replaced with a plastic type that doesn’t require screws…..and doesn't rust.....
Similar to the original but a new side cupboard was made with removeable fascia and the size reduced in length and depth……
Another feature of the Karisma retained. This module covers the LPG tank. The naff cushion cost me £2000 so its staying to remind me that you can’t trust anyone…..
The forward locker has been opened out and a drop down restraining panel inserted…..
Drilling holes in Vinyl is a problem for items that may not be required in the future. The hooks and TV stand are mounted on the rear side of the panel instead…..drop it down and there they are......
The entire van was insulated using plastic carpet insulation from B&Q and cost just £8-00. The underside of the floor is sealed with PVA as well as insulated. No adhesive used for the body panels, just slap grease on them, press the lining onto the panel and it forms a vacuum, they ain't fell off yet! The main console, that supports the ZIG (and from which all the wiring is routed) is bolted behind the drivers seat and is part of the vans structure. Everything else can be removed but this stays in place.
The trim panels were also insulated at the rear…….
The work counter hosts the Gas switches, gas hoses, copper piping, water.pipes, etc and is the main part of the assy, remove the top and basically everything comes out with it making removal fairly simple and quick….
Stage 1 is to bolt the lower section to the floor into the captive receivers in the floor, cut-outs in the base are to locate the battery and gas bottle in their repective locations. (The gas/.battery locker was made after this picture was taken but is part of the base unit. The gas bottle is later strapped against the panel within its locker and the battery secured to the floor.)
Stage 2 is to simply place the shelf into position (which also has the lower slider rail fitted), no screws are needed as the top unit locks the shelf down into pl;ace……….
The work surface has end cappings and two guide blocks which locate the top into position. The pipes, loom for the tap and 12V outlet are dropped behind the shelf. Once in place the work surface is secured with six bolts, two eiter end and two to the vehicle side structure. The lower quadrant shelf is then fitted using two bolts and two screws. From there on its just a case of fitting the various items and connecting them. Waste water pipe fits onto a quick fit union on the end panel.
Masterials and Applied finishes.
Apart from the pine worktops the main material for the panels is 6mm MDF. Depending on the panel three techniques were used to create panels to accept the T-Edging. There is probably a tool but I haven’t got one and probably a better way of doing it!
Method 1. For panels where both sides are visible Using 6mm material, make the panel twice. Set the router to cut a depth of 1.5mm and run the router along the edges that require T-Edging. You can also hollow out any unwanted sections if you want….glue and clamp when finished.
Method 2. Where only one side of the panel can be seen I used edge laminating. The centre section is about 3mm thick. The panel appears to be 12mm thick at the edges but is in fact 6mm thick. You will also need 4mm or 3mm MDF for the sandwich otherwise your panel will be 15mm,
Finish. Bathroom and Kitchen grade Emulsion applied with a roller before the units/panels are assembled. Three coats, sanded and a final coat. I wouldn’t use it if it didn’t work or if it looked naff! You would be hard pressed to see that it is emulsion which is extremely durable, easy to apply and maintain. . If its good enough for my home its good enough for my van! I may in the future face the units in melamine veneer but for now I'm happy just the way it is!
Postscript......
The final bit arrived......the 'Westy' type swing out table support (from CAK Tanks) which are so versatile and simple to use, may be I should have just bought a 'westy'........
