Suspension lift

[v-lux]

Ive been doing a bit of searching around for information on suspension lifts and between the old and new forums i can only dig up a few bits and bobs.

So this got me thinking, would it be a good plan to collect together lots of peoples solutions so they can form a resource?
Could be either something like the wheel fitment guide, or a section in the Syncro wiki?

Just struck me that there are definitely a few lifted vans out there using a variety of methods to achieve the desired lift, but no pool of info on the advantages, disadvantages, cost of each method.

I would like to lift my van, not too much, perhaps just something like 30-50mm, but i have found it quite hard to find info on anything other than seikel, syncroservices or fitting 2wd springs and rear spacers.

Seems to me that spacers on the rear is the simplest solution, but im not keen on the 2wd springs on the front idea, ive heard they can be rather squishy?

So come on, what ya'll got in those wheel arches?

[syncrowjoker]

Mines got Go Westy lift kit, OME shocks,H&R springs,Baxters westy leveling kit.Shockers top out at rear,has a minor rear sit down.Overall not impressed when cost is taken into consideration,about 515 wheel centre to arch.

[syncroandy]

On my pickup there's 20mm spacers front and rear, fronts from Syncro-Services, rears home-made. Springs and dampers are standard, fronts are HD. Rear dampers top out, I plan to modify the lower bracket to fix this. It sits at around 50cm from hub centre to arch. Handles very nicely and the lift is worthwhile, for not a big outlay.

[syncropaddy]

Ive got standard front springs on Syncro Services spacers and 16" shocks. Rears are standard with Buschmiede spacers and syncro Services rear shocks. No fear of bottoming out at all. Trim height is 515mm

[KarlT]

Spacers have got to be the easiest, cheapest & probably best solution. (If not going too big....20/25mm at wheel) I think I remember somewhere talk of a kit to raise rear shock fixing bracket.

[syncrosimon]

I found this the easiest solution. Make a new top arm, replace the top hats with proper joints, and fit a moded and adjustable coil over. Simples.


( I wish)

[Simon Baxter]

I found this the easiest solution. Make a new top arm, replace the top hats with proper joints, and fit a moded and adjustable coil over. Simples.


( I wish)

Coil overs are do-able fairly easily, for not much money, and theres absolutley loads of spring choices, but the springs are fairly tightly wound and wouldn't leave much room for articulation compared to a standard spring that has massive gaps between the springs.
AVO already have the specs for the coil overs for the front as I started getting them done, but we didn't carry on for the articulation issue, not really gaining anything over stock other than it's adjustable ride hieght and damping, but less movement.

[Simon Baxter]

If someone can answer the question of how much from open to closed on the front end we can re-evaluate and see if it is possible again if you so desire.
Again, could be done on the rear also with beefed up chassis and trailling arm mounts.

[toomanytoys]

Si, is it poss to get a longer spring? then the added "turns" would allow a little more travel..

I have the original VW "TD" spacers in the back of mine.. std shocks, doesnt top out... (do carry a few tools in the locker!!!) I have some of Brickwerks longer rear shocks to go on, but have to fit the HD high angle cvs first...
The rear spacers made all the diference to mine.. it was always catching something, now rarely does... well unless its rough of course... hasnt lifted it massive.. but enough..

Front.. Want to lift a bit.. looks ok/right when empty, but it catches quite a bit when loaded with 2 adults, 2 kids and camping gear.... have std springs, and Monroe "van magnums" which feel stiffer than stock.. I have a set of Busmans front spacers, but they are too big IMHO... so want to try a pair of Brickwerks "westy lean" front spacers...

[v-lux]

So when using coil overs, are we talking about reduced travel?

I presume that the suspension arms and shock will still extend to the the limits available, but the more tightly wound spring will prevent use of the full amount of travel available?

Is that right?

[toomanytoys]

Yes... you can have a higher starting point... but less articulation (travel)... which considering they dont have huge amounts to start with.... could be a down side depending on what you want to do with it....

[syncrosimon]

After lifting the front end it becomes necessary to return the damper to the middle of it's travel. This can be done by sleeving the shock with an extender. May also need to modify top ball joint to cope with the increase angle.


Helps stop topping out of the damper.

[Aidan]

Had mine in at Brickwerks today to reset the front suspension as wear on ns tyre not even, I know I'm fat but.....

anyway it's SyncroServices 15mm lift kit all round with all new everything, standard vw except polybushed steering rack, I've spaced the front damper by 8mm and have no issues with that topping and with the box on the back and the overall weight and balance of the van the rears aren't bad, I plan though on modding the rear trailing arms to have a higher damper mount to prevent the topping and maximise articulation.

488mm wheel centre to arch - 1mm toe in on the chart
780mm ground to arch on 205R14C, will be a bit taller on the 15" MTs

the caster was a fair bit out (swapped to late lca's had to guess on the radius rod length a bit) so once that was correct the cambers as set weren't far out, but it wasn't possible to get it 100% correct, the offside is 20min out of spec (negative) at full adjustment but correct balance side to side and in spec; there was loads of adjustment required to tracking at the end but it all ended up right. Had to move the steering wheel back one spline, it had been moved when the suspension was swapped originally and set up then and wasn't right, and it had always been slightly off since I bought the van, now it's almost spot on, but with a slight whiff of steer left, but a right camber cancels it out easily so it's very slight. Van is power steering.

Steering is now a little lighter and less understeer , especially on right handers, eg roundabouts (lots of those in warrington) than before which explains the observed tyre wear.

The van shell is obviously not quite as perfect as when it was built, but it's a 21 year old sunroof van with some rust so it's to be expected really, it's close enough for me.
Simon was suggesting a strut brace as the way to get the camber more positive, not much room in there over the front diff but could be done

New upper wishbones with better camber adjustment and clearance and articulation of upper ball joint would be essential once you get past 20mm lift I reckon like those above but I guess they aren't cheap.

And don't forget to factor in bigger better rear cv joints too. I just had a price from SA for some 108mm 1/2 shafts, ouch. In fact almost as ouch as buying new from VW and that would really hurt

[v-lux]

Aidan,

Did you mention 108mm 1/2 shafts as they are longer than the standard ones?

Are longer 1/2 shafts a consideration when raising the suspension past a certain point? Are they the next limiting factor after CV joints?
Presumably the shafts run out of length once the suspension starts moving through a much wider arc?

Or have i missed the point here?

Simon, if you dont mind me asking, what sort of cost were those upper arms to have made? Or did you make them yourself?

[Aidan]

108mm cv's are used on the 16", to overcome the limit in the articulation of the 98mm ones, you can go porsche944turbo joints in 98mm which are a couple of mm deeper and have greater articulation, that's what Brickie and the others sell.
To go to 108mm you need to replace the output flanges on the gearbox and the driveshafts complete and the half shafts on the trailing arms, very expensive option. Just I know where there's a pair of shafts and the output flanges I can sort alternatives for sensible money, but the half shafts are £250 each from VW if they really exist, hence my enquiry to SA for some used ones, all the SA vans ran with 108mm CVs at the rear.