Eberspacher D1L no heat.

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maxstu
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Re: Eberspacher D1L no heat.

Post by maxstu »

davidoft1 wrote: 15 Aug 2020, 11:59
maxstu wrote: 15 Aug 2020, 11:40 No. Im sure it locks out power to pump too, to prevent flooding heater box

There’s a fuse in the silver control box
Do you mean the ECU? Only silver control box l can find. Above heater box. Thats a sealed unit surely?
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Stuart
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davidoft1
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Re: Eberspacher D1L no heat.

Post by davidoft1 »

Yes is have a small knob looking type thing on the bottom, that’s a replaceable fuse

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maxstu
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Re: Eberspacher D1L no heat.

Post by maxstu »

Thats what l thought. Yesterday l disconnected one long and one short terminal at bottom and removed ECU from bulkhead.

Nothing as you suggest though. I was expecting a fuse holder there too. Least thats what internet shows.

Regards
Stuart
MaxStu
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davidoft1
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Re: Eberspacher D1L no heat.

Post by davidoft1 »

maxstu wrote: 15 Aug 2020, 13:12 Thats what l thought. Yesterday l disconnected one long and one short terminal at bottom and removed ECU from bulkhead.

Nothing as you suggest though. I was expecting a fuse holder there too. Least thats what internet shows.

Regards
Stuart

Got a picture of your control unit

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maxstu
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Re: Eberspacher D1L no heat.

Post by maxstu »

Let me know if better quality required (likely)?
I need to empty transom locker


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MaxStu
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maxstu
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Re: Eberspacher D1L no heat.

Post by maxstu »

Moved on to depth transducer Simrad IS15.
Manual says l can check strength of signals by pressing a certain button for ten seconds. Did that and nothing comes up close to diagram.
Oh well! :roll:
Shaver light working though :D
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Oldiebut goodie
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Re: Eberspacher D1L no heat.

Post by Oldiebut goodie »

All the manuals state that heaters should be run monthly. No one appears to RTFM!

First thing that I would be looking for on a marine installation is corrosion anywhere, thermostat/ecu/motor. Symptoms sound a bit like the motor brushes are worn out/stuck - if the resistance is incorrect start up will not happen, intermittent contact could be happening.
Regarding number of attempts - the heaters should make an attempt to start, if fail it should then make a second attempt on its own - this is where the number of attempts doubles. You do one start up the heater does two and so on. ( Some heaters have no lockout, some after 3 attempts and others 5 )

Don't listen to anyone who tells you to apply a constant 12v to pump, they don't know what they are talking about and will possibly burn your pump out for you. :shock:

Mocki has got the heater fuse at the wrong end - it should be at the power source end, possibly a fuse box in that set up as I would expect to see a hefty main cable to the instrument area.

Motor fuse should be in the ecu - if your ecu has one there should be a cap on the bottom and a diagram with the fuse rating printed on the face of the ecu. They don't all have a motor fuse.

Transducer quite often fails due to a nick in the cable sheath, water can fill the coaxial screen which then messes up the signal.
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