Zig cf8 makes clicking noise

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oscarvandriel
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Zig cf8 makes clicking noise

Post by oscarvandriel »

My zig cf8 makes clicking noises when hooked up on 240 mains.
But, when I pull out the 2amp fuse it stops clicking and everything still works fine.
The part that's clicking is the black plastic part soldered to the trafo inside the panel.
Any ideas what to do ?

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Re: Zig cf8 makes clicking noise

Post by Bubble Meister »

Are you referring to the thermal cut out switch? With ref to the other thread: http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=127867" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
On this thread it's the blue device wired onto the transformer. Once the 2A fuse us pulled no mains power is charging the battery hence the thermal switch isn't working.
The question is why is it clicking? Are you using the zig to top up the battery? Are you using it to power light, water pumps etc? Each of these services should be protected by a 10a fuse. It seems the system is drawing more power than its designed for, or the thermal switch is knackered.
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oscarvandriel
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Re: Zig cf8 makes clicking noise

Post by oscarvandriel »

When I'm on site and hooked up to mains the only things I use are the internal lights and water pump and sometimes I connect charger for mobile etc.
So the zig is there for keeping the Leisure battery topped up yes.
Last weekend I had an extra camping fridge wich I had left on too long .
Normally I would have turned it off but I was away too long and forgot about it.
That's when the zig unit got hot and the black or blue thingy on the trafo started clinking
I've never had the problem before.

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Re: Zig cf8 makes clicking noise

Post by oscarvandriel »

My leisure battery is not empty right now because it will still charge of course while driving

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Re: Zig cf8 makes clicking noise

Post by Bubble Meister »

It seems strange that the fuse didn't blow. It is a specified 2A fuse fitted? That should allow around 480W which is more than enough.

I'd try hook everything up again minus the fridge and see how the system is. Then try again with the additional fridge.

Maybe Ghost can explain why the thermal trip would operate without blowing the fuse.
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Re: Zig cf8 makes clicking noise

Post by Oldiebut goodie »

I have an extractor fan in my shower room and the fan kept failing but no failed fuse. After the second one went (same make) I stripped it and found a thermal fuse in the transformer windings. Replaced this and all good again.
I think that the same sort of thing is happening here - the transformer is building up heat due to continuous heavy use although the current draw isn't enough to blow the power fuse, the heat is tripping the thermal fuse. May be just a case of needing cooling assistance via a computer fan to fit. 12v source is there somewhere!
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Re: Zig cf8 makes clicking noise

Post by Oldiebut goodie »

From the manual.

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oscarvandriel
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Re: Zig cf8 makes clicking noise

Post by oscarvandriel »

I opened the black thermal trip and hookup to mains.
It clicks right away.
Most likely it got so hot that it broke.
If I bend it a little bit it seems to work but I'm not taking the risk.
As mentioned in the manual about to much appliances attached that could be the reason.
I hooked up an extra small fridge and left it on too long, this causes a lot of heat an d also the weather here last week wasn't helping. 38 degrees Celsius.
Checked everything else today and all is working fine as it should.
Now I only need a new thermal trip to put on the transformer. Anyone knows where to get one?
I can't seem to find it online.
thanks so far for all the help

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Re: Zig cf8 makes clicking noise

Post by Oldiebut goodie »

Do you mean that it doesn't trip when you bend it away from the transformer? If so there is nothing wrong with it, you just need to sort out the reason for the overheating.
What is the part number on it?
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Re: Zig cf8 makes clicking noise

Post by oscarvandriel »

No part number
Just saying G65

It clicks right away away when you turn on mains.
Also when not used for a while so the transformer is not hot.

If it clicks, it sparks, maybe that's is.
I try to bend it a little and that seemed to help.
That's why I think it can not really break.

Just need to find out which position is on and off

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Re: Zig cf8 makes clicking noise

Post by Oldiebut goodie »

Sparks aren't good!
If it is 65 degrees C it seems a little low.
You can use a more modern version like these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KSD-9700-Temp ... 4188e6e93f. Note that if it is a metal cased one that the case is live when connected - they say that a plastic case is included though. 65 degree available + plenty of others. Rated at 5A (cf8 is mains fused at 2A) and resets at 15 degrees under rated trip temperature. These can be soldered in but I use a heat sink to protect the fuse from excess heat, you can buy crimps for them if your soldering skills are non-existent.
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Re: Zig cf8 makes clicking noise

Post by ghost123uk »

Yep, just sounds like a knackered thermal trip switch. Fit a new one (as per OBG's link) and you should be good. I would sugest the plastic body version at 70 degrees C. Remember you are dealing with mains electricity and it can kill you if you ain't careful. Also remember the trip switch has to be in good thermal contact with the transformer to work. If it's not, you risk the transformer overheating (under excessive load) and again, as we are dealing with the mains, that ain't good!!! Please take care and if you're not sure, get an expert to do it ;)
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Re: Zig cf8 makes clicking noise

Post by Oldiebut goodie »

Just noticed that I forgot to put that you need a NC - normally closed type.
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Re: Zig cf8 makes clicking noise

Post by ghost123uk »

Aside = I recently fitted a NO version of those to my Propex, as it is an early one and did not have the cool down cycle. I didn't strip it down, I just secured it inside the warm air outlet. It holds the fan on after the burner is extinguished until the temp drops to a safe level for the internal components (I chose 60 degrees C for this application).
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Re: Zig cf8 makes clicking noise

Post by Oldiebut goodie »

You should see what the real old Webastos used - it was a 6 inch rod that sat in the heat exchanger with a microswitch mounted on the top that is positioned so that it is NO, as the rod expands with the heat the switch makes contact and vice versa. Simple but effective only requiring change of microswitch on failure usually. Example of 4 inch one for later models.

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