RUSTPROOFING AND TOP COAT ADVICE

Thin bits of metal and bright blue light. Including glass & trim.

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BigAitch
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RUSTPROOFING AND TOP COAT ADVICE

Post by BigAitch »

Apologies to moderators if this has been covered but my first search attempts didn't really show the details I need. If it has, please point me to where.

I'm brand new to the forum having just purchased a 1990 T25/T3 Autohomes 'lacework' camper. 
It is currently on the road with valid MOT but needs immediate attention to outer sills, O/S side panel and wheel arch, both front steps and definitely a tailgate.  All if these will be cut out/new panels fitted and there are other panels that I have to patch weld.

I will be taking the repair areas down to bare metal and want to kill any rust that I cannot cut out then ensure the optimum primer is applied.

I'm out of date with modern paint and rust proofing products and would very much appreciate advice regarding these. 

I will then be spraying her myself, although I am far from that.  I have used isocyanate two pack (a lot) many moons ago but having read horror stories of the nasty side effects and not having a spray booth I think there may be safer modern equivalents that deliver the same quality finish that lasts.

Any suggestions as to what to use will be much appreciated and as I progress I will share my efforts/pics in the correct section.

RogerT
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Re: RUSTPROOFING AND TOP COAT ADVICE

Post by RogerT »

'88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.

BigAitch
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Re: RUSTPROOFING AND TOP COAT ADVICE

Post by BigAitch »

Thanks for the steer!  Quite a bit of reading there and a lot to get my head around, so a slow read over the weekend.  However, the more I know, the better equipped I will be when the time comes to top-coat.

Not immediately obvious though is how to KILL rust that isn't worth cutting out and that can be subsequently sanded back filled and painted.....?

 

RogerT
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Re: RUSTPROOFING AND TOP COAT ADVICE

Post by RogerT »

Vactan gets the best write ups here. Latex based? So the coating is waterproof after application and the rust beneath is cured. Available on eBay. I have some but not used yet, working my way through a couple of other substances before starting the vactan bottle. Probably a false economy but nothing I’m doing is going to be visible yet.
'88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.

BigAitch
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Re: RUSTPROOFING AND TOP COAT ADVICE

Post by BigAitch »

Thanks Roger, I'll read around that too.  I have also been pointed to Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 and have a litre on order.

I also think I have a 2K solution for primer and top coat using the Jawel non Iso system. Not sure what plasticizer I'll need for the bumpers and mirrors, but I'm about to call their tech support line now.

Just need to decide on colour now... If I can find the original paint code (white, not sure which though) I may opt to put her in original livery.....

  

 

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300CE
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Re: RUSTPROOFING AND TOP COAT ADVICE

Post by 300CE »

Hi Hal,

I also use keep areas topped up with Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 as a coating:

https://www.bilthamber.com/dynax-s50
'86 DG, Weber Carb

BigAitch
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Re: RUSTPROOFING AND TOP COAT ADVICE

Post by BigAitch »

Thanks Justin, that looks like good stuff and seems to come with a handy applicator pipe, useful for at least two areas I am about to weld: below the windscreen and on the front wing/nose corner by the top grill.  I think I'll need a few litres to treat my lacework, even after I've cut out as many of the nasties as I can though.

As it happens I have just found 2 gallons of unopened Wax Oil that I bought in the late 80s to treat a Landrover Chassis..... so I may play with some of that too.  Quite fitting that if I do, the rust treatment will be at least a couple of years older than the T3 itself!!  :D

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