Advice on replacing/repairing exhaust

[timski]

Hi Guys,

On Saturday we had our first official breakdown We returned from near Oxford on the back of a recovery truck Fortunately Footman James covered the cost, but we're left with a broken exhaust pipe where the manifold pipe meets the elbow cast (I'm a complete novice so please bear with me ).



I have a 2.1 petrol watercooled 1991. As far as I can tell from photos on JustKampers and Brickwerks it looks like a standard late exhaust system
The relay man reckoned it would be easy to drop the old exhaust and bang a new one but admitted he hadn't had any dealings with T25s before. I toyed with the idea and then checked the WIKI and forum only to read about sheered/corroded studs etc. It sounds like it is a BIG job even for an experienced mechanic if the studs are corroded. As you can see from the photos (http://s1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee3 ... 20project/) they look pretty corroded to me, but I've nothing to compare them to. Do they look like they could be released with some PlusGas (read about that on the forum) and/or a blowtorch?

Another obvious route is to get a new one fitted by a pro. I saw in previous threads there are options out there (mainly built and fitted to order as far as I can gather?) but I didn't see any in the Reading/Berkshire area apart from longlife (Basingstoke). I gave them a call and they only do exhausts from the middle section out (presumably because they don't wanna get involved in those sheered/corroded studs?).

If there are recommended fitters further afield (happy to pay to have it done properly) how do you go about getting your van to them. Presumably it's illegal to drive my van in this state?

Finally, would replacing just the manifold pipe between the cast elbow and silencer be an option or does the corrosion look too bad to be able to get a clean connection? I wouldn't mind this as a temporary solution, so it would give me some time to do some research.

Cheers,
Tim.

PS. I haven't even finished my previous project yet

[Ian Hulley]

1) go stainless not mild steel ... Brickwerks or JP Exhausts

2) DO NOT let the baboons down at "pooh"-Fit near your van ! All together now ... "You Can't Get "pooh" than "pooh"-Fit Fitter"

[California Dreamin]

Both ends of this 'intermediate pipe' are olived (have an olive seal between two 3 bolt flanges) It is very likely that you could cut or grind off one bolt head on each flange, knock the bolt out and the flange will turn allowing easy access to the other two bolts on each flange.
Even with the rust, the intermediate pipe is the easiest part of the system to replace....about an hour..... the flanges could be re-used after cleaning, then all you need is a smear of exhaust paste to seal and six new nuts/bolts/washers (split copper lock nuts are best)

You may choose to do the 'whole exhaust' but you'll be into £595 minimum for stainless steel (£475 for mild steel) plus fitting charge or just repair the section for now...it's up to you.
The can of worms is real BTW, I was told 1 to 2 studs snap on average, this by one of the well known and recommended SS manufacturers.

Martin

[KINGPRAWN]

its a given ..if you are planing to try to do it ,or getting help to do it ..studs WILL break off!!! no question. DONT try unless you have the time and the kit to deal with drilling out bust studs..also make sure you have all the new bits you'll need BEFORE you try...nothing worse than getting to the point where you can neither go back or forward

[timski]

If I decide to replace the intermediate pipe for now with a view to getting a complete replacement when I can find a good supplier/fitter, what is the difference between these two intermediate price ( ) :

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... ory_id=103

and

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... ory_id=103

and is it OK to replace a mild steel intermediate pipe with a stainless steel one?

I like the idea of gradually replacing the whole system piece by piece but I doubt I will even have the courage to take on those corroded studs on the engine block so will probably get the whole system replaced in the mid-term. In which case, would the justkampers intermediate pipe be an adequate stop-gap (I know they've get a bad press on here but if it's just short-term?

http://www.justkampers.com/shop/exhaust ... 10108.html

I appreciate all the advice.

Tim.

[Ian Hulley]

The beauty of Mr Baxter's system is that it's a striaght knock-off of the standard VW one and therefore the parts can be mixed and match. If it's just the intermediate pipe that's gone just swap that for a Brickwerks stainless piece. JK stuff is crap, the GSF stuff a half step better but still doesn't last long.

It's a no-brainer.

Ian

[kevtherev]

Great post timski
well described question.
with some succinct and direct answers.

Sure beats "my exhaust is broke, what can I do"

[California Dreamin]

As Ian explained...Brickwerks are the only supplier to do a straight copy of VW's system BUT in stainless steel. The difference in price between JK & Brickwerks for the complete system is around a £100....one will last 2 - 4 years the other well.....??? alot longer ...it is a no brainer.
If the van is a 'Keeper' then it would would make sense to buy the first piece of you new SS system then add the rest when finances and your understanding of the job are better.
Finally...If you register with Brickwerks as a full member of this club, you will see automatic discounts everytime you visit Mr Baxters site (about 5% on this system)

Martin

[timski]

Brickwerks intermediate pipe and required bits and bobs ordered and requisite brother with plenty of mechanical experience booked in for Saturday Oh and an 8090 discount despite not being a confirmed member yet - thanks Brickwerks

Michael at Brickwerks was very honest too and warned me BEFORE ordering that replacing a section can lead to a bigger job due to corroded nuts etc for which he offered some advice (plenty of penetrating fluid and a grinder). Oh well fingers crossed we can manage it. If we do, I may well book a trip up north and pay a visit to them to see if i can get the rest done with them en route.

Thanks for all your help so far guys. Will keep you posted!
Tim.

[timski]

OK can of PlusGas bought this morning to try and release those rusty bolts. I doubt they will shift given how corroded they are so I'm thinking of getting a blowtorch too - any suggestions for what would be suitable?

Anyone used Shock and Unlock? A guy in halfords recommended it.
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165594


Also, I'll have my angle grinder at the ready if that fails - not sure what kind of disc to use though as I've only ever used it for chasing channels in plaster. Any advice welcome.

Finally, what would you recommend for cleaning up the flanges? Wire brush?

Cheers,
Tim.

[Ian Hulley]

Use a thin cutting or slitting disc to whip through the middle of the 3 nuts & bolts, using the correct PPE of course.

Ian

[timski]

Use a thin cutting or slitting disc to whip through the middle of the 3 nuts & bolts

Ian, do you mean to cut between the two flanges so the bolt shaft is cut in the middle? I hadn't thought of doing that. I was gonna cut the head off the bolt.

using the correct PPE of course.

At the risk of sounding stupid (don't worry there's no risk of that, it's a dead cert i hear you all cry) what does that mean?

[Ian Hulley]

Ian, do you mean to cut between the two flanges so the bolt shaft is cut in the middle? I hadn't thought of doing that. I was gonna cut the head off the bolt.

Yes

At the risk of sounding stupid (don't worry there's no risk of that, it's a dead cert i hear you all cry) what does that mean?

Personal Protective Equipment (i.e. a faceshield or at least grinding goggles and something to stop a red hot ember dropping in your ear .. DON'T laugh it happened to me and it hurts (a lot !)

[timski]

[Personal Protective Equipment (i.e. a faceshield or at least grinding goggles and something to stop a red hot ember dropping in your ear .. DON'T laugh it happened to me and it hurts (a lot !)

Ouch!! Sounds like sound advice. Actually got grit in my eye looking under the van the other day because I didn't put my goggles on. Lesson learnt!

Thanks,
Tim.

[timski]

Hi Guys,

Some guys on the forum have warned against mixing stainless steel with mild steel due to the galvanic reaction between any 2 differing metals.

I've also read about a product called Duralac that according to it's website is a "compound alleviates the galvanic reaction between any 2 differing metals i.e. it stops the rusting process caused by the different electrical properties of the structures"

So given I'm replacing a part of my mild steel exhaust system with a SS part, do you think it might be a good idea to use some? If so, do you just smear some on the contact areas of the flanges?

Cheers,
Tim.