Brake pipes (again). Can you join new copper to old steel?

[1664]

Simple enough, the two pipes that exit the brake master cyliner are in absolutely tip top condition right up until a few inches away from the tee piece where they branch off to the front calipers and a few inches away from the pressure regulator for the rear brakes. I would sooooo like to avoid having to replace them all the way back to the master cylinder as it looks a right pain on top of what is already turning out to be a right pain so I would like to join them with couplers over the spare wheel area (or LPG tank in my case).

I will shoot the first person who uses the word "doddle"

Thanks in advance

[Mocki]

You can, but I’m pretty sure that the copper will cause the steel harm over time
( it’s a long time since school, but I’m sure the steel won’t harm the copper )

[davidoft1]

You can but , flaring steel pipe is much more tricky than copper

[1664]

Yeah the old 'dissimilar metals' syndrome but the coupler will be brass (hopefully, haven't actually sourced one yet) and the steel and copper (well Kunifer) wont be in direct contact. I doubt the fluid itself will transfer any nastiness from one to the other. I know you need moisture for the dissimilar metal syndrome to take place and over the spare wheel doesnt appear to get wet as such but damp is unavoidable.

The brake pipes were obviously one of the first thing fitted to the chassis at the factory as they are obstructed by pretty much everything else. I was hoping to replace the Tee Junctions at the front and the back too but I cant even get the old ones off. Rusted round tiny bolts. I can see they will require destroying to get the tee's off.

Oh is it Dave? I have a flairing tool so it should be ok, they used to use steel all the time so it might take a bit more elbow grease.

Thanks both, I'll go for it and thanks not for using the "doddle" word

[937carrera]

..or take the approach that Brickwerks use for the clutch pipe repair kits.

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/d ... pling.html

Buy a spare, the second one is a doddle

[1664]

..or take the approach that Brickwerks use for the clutch pipe repair kits.

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/d ... pling.html

Isn't that too big though? Brake pipe is 4.75mm (3/16")

Buy a spare, the second one is a doddle

Not if they don't fit. Nevertheless, you shall be hearing from my hit man. Actually thinking about it you won't, you won't hear a thing

[937carrera]

..or take the approach that Brickwerks use for the clutch pipe repair kits.

Isn't that too big though? Brake pipe is 4.75mm (3/16")

...I said the same approach....... use a straight joiner. You'll need to find a source for the part for brake pipe diameter. I believe it's pretty much impossible to put a flare on steel pipe with hand tools.

[1664]

Yes that was pretty much what i was thinking, sorry, I thought you were linking to the actual part required. I was rather hoping to find a straight through fitting like the Tee junction that you simple fit flaired pipes into, I would rather avoid olives if I can but if needs must. Will have a look on ebay, if it ain't on there it don't exist.

I didn't realise steel pipe took so much uumph to fair it so I won't try doing anything before I have replaced a section of brake pipe elsewhere so i have some steel pipe to play with

Thanks for the advice

[937carrera]

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1038675

Getting a flare on a steel brake pipe may not be as difficult as I thought

That'll be a better solution as thinking about it I'm not sure that joining with olives is an acceptable repair from an MOT perspective so have a word with your MOT guy as well.

[1664]

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1038675

Getting a flare on a steel brake pipe may not be as difficult as I thought

That'll be a better solution as thinking about it I'm not sure that joining with olives is an acceptable repair from an MOT perspective so have a word with your MOT guy as well.

Cheers, that's put my mind at rest and I have sourced a straight coupler that just requires flairing into like the ones in the picture on the pistonheads thread.

Fair point Re the MoT and olives, never even occurred to me

[Simon Baxter]

Steel is hard to flare, especially with DIY tools.
You ideally need to strip the paint back then anneal the end of the pipe with a blow torch, this will usually ignite the brake fluid and will drip burning brake fluid to the floor or spit flames out of the end of the tube.
I wouldn't use compression fittings on a brake system.
I'd use something like this.
https://www.cohpro.com/brake-clutch-pas ... emale.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[1664]

I'd use something like this.
https://www.cohpro.com/brake-clutch-pas ... emale.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I think if you check your webshop records you will find I ordered two this morning along with Tee adaptors and brake hoses

I will see what happens with flairing the steel, it either works or it doesnt and if it doesnt then I wll have to move on to plan B (clean them up and hope nobody notices) and if they do notice then Plan C (do it properly all the way to the master cylinder)

[Mocki]

We usually stop lettering plans and go to numbers about "z"

[1664]

I never get past plan D which is to give it to Marcus