Speedo cable replacement

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itchyfeet
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Speedo cable replacement

Post by itchyfeet »

Did this today, pics to share :D

Spare wheel out, grill off hub cap off

ImageP1080284a by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

remove circlip from speedo cable( mine was missing)

ImageP1080310 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

make a note of where the cable ties are placed on the spare wheel rods and cut clips, I used tape to mark positions

ImageP1080286 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

undo p clip nut 10mm socket, probably need mole grips to hold bracket or you will rip it off

ImageP1080288 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

pull cable from hub, note cable route

ImageP1080291 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1080292 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

pull through note route

ImageP1080297 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr



in cab, remove binicle cover and release speedo clip, pull cable through a few feet so it can't fall back inside dash by it's weight (this is a late push on type)

ImageP1080299 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

attach new cable, I used tape

ImageP1080302 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

remove gromet and pull new cable through

ImageP1080301 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1080303 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

pull gromet into position from new cable

ImageP1080305 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

clip onto speedo

ImageP1080307 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

underneath, route cable back as noted, add some lube to cable and push through hub

ImageP1080308 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1080309 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

make sure protective sheath is in position slid down to hub

ImageP1080311 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

To get the cable through the grease cap hole you will need to jack and rotate wheel, I use a small screwdriver you can get one hand behind to push cable while using the screwdriver to encourage it through, not too hard.

Made a temporary clip from 0.6mm welding wire until I can order one.

ImageP1080315 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

fit pclip but don't tighten until cable ties fitted back where they were

ImageP1080313 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Job done.
Last edited by itchyfeet on 10 Feb 2018, 15:24, edited 1 time in total.
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edoh
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Re: Speedo cable replacement

Post by edoh »

thanks so much for sharing :D :ok :ok

makes everything so much more obvious with photos and clear text instructions -

hope it's heading straight to the wiki :ok

edoh
Owner of a red T25 fixed hi top campervan - colour - spikey red - petrol - water cooled - 1.9 dg engine rhd - 1990 g reg n still going strong!-

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CJH
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Re: Speedo cable replacement

Post by CJH »

itchyfeet wrote:
pull cable from hub, note cable route

Image

Yes, very useful. My speedo needle 'bounces' between about 30mph and 40mph, so one of the first jobs I attempted when I first bought my van was to replace the cable. I failed miserably at the above step - I simply could not get the old cable out because it appeared to be jammed in with a rubber sleeve. I didn't fancy cutting through it since I wasn't sure about the rest of the job. My new speedo cable has been on the shelf ever since, and recently I've been thinking about giving it another go. Was your old cable difficult to get out? If I cut it off behind the hub so that I can drift it out, is there easy access to the remnant under the speedo drive cap?

I suspect my bouncing needle is due in part to an improper routing of the cable - if there are unnatural bends I think the inner cable will rub and catch on the outer, so I was planning to make sure the cable follows its natural curve as much as possible when fitting the new one.
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itchyfeet
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Re: Speedo cable replacement

Post by itchyfeet »

Cable was easy to pull out but you could use some mole grips if tight.

I oiled ( E D I T don't do this http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=164830" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) the new cable by dripping oil in both ends before fitting, forgot to mention that, I also cured a bouncy needle on the poptop by dribbling oil down from the cab end, slow progress, probably just as quick to replace.

deffo don't want any sharp bends which is why you should tighten pclip after fixing cable ties so you get the alignment right.
Last edited by itchyfeet on 03 Apr 2019, 17:45, edited 1 time in total.
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CJH
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Re: Speedo cable replacement

Post by CJH »

Yeah I tried as much mechanical force as I could manage to shift it. I'll have another go, and maybe cut that rubber sleeve away first -
based on your post I now suspect that was a bodge by a previous owner. Timely post - thank you.
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bigherb
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Re: Speedo cable replacement

Post by bigherb »

CJH wrote: I suspect my bouncing needle is due in part to an improper routing of the cable - if there are unnatural bends I think the inner cable will rub and catch on the outer, so I was planning to make sure the cable follows its natural curve as much as possible when fitting the new one.
Yes too sharp a bend can cause it also the cable should be fitted above the carrier rails otherwise there is a chance the cable will be crushed between the spare wheel. The cable should also run downwards from the stub axle and the rubber seal must be in good condition to help stop water ingress into the bearings, finally the cable end should be sealed at the grease cap. Failure to do can also corrode the outer cable into the stub axle which then has be drifted out.

Image

Image

Image

Image
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itchyfeet
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Re: Speedo cable replacement

Post by itchyfeet »

Thanks for the tips Bigherb, I wonder if they were above the wheel rods from factory? neither of mine are.

Didn't see any seal at the hub either?
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RobH
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Re: Speedo cable replacement

Post by RobH »

Realise it's an old thread but my cable end had silicone over it, is there any need for this?
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Nathanb
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Re: Speedo cable replacement

Post by Nathanb »

RobH wrote:Realise it's an old thread but my cable end had silicone over it, is there any need for this?

You don't have to put a silicone seal over the end of the speedo cable, the main reason for doing so would be to stop grit and water making it's way into the wheel centre cap and mixing in with the grease that you put inside.

Another possible reason would be to help keep the end of the cable in situation, however that's really the job of the speedo cable circlip so shouldn't be required.
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DoubleOSeven
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Re: Speedo cable replacement

Post by DoubleOSeven »

They do suggest silicone. Water ingress, as you say.

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itchyfeet
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Re: Speedo cable replacement

Post by itchyfeet »

Ha Ha Ha

never occured to me to read a manual to do this job, thats typical of me :lol:
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nsjtaylor
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Re: Speedo cable replacement

Post by nsjtaylor »

Excellent! A timely demo on how to do it properly. My speedo "bounces" just a little bit at all speeds; if you glance at it for too long it makes your eyes wobble too :D So, definitely on the To-Do list.
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bigbadbob76
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Re: Speedo cable replacement

Post by bigbadbob76 »

[quote="CJH I failed miserably at the above step - I simply could not get the old cable out because it appeared to be jammed in with a rubber sleeve. I didn't fancy cutting through it since I wasn't sure about the rest of the job. My new speedo cable has been on the shelf ever since.[/quote]

You're not alone there CJH, I pulled and twisted but it wouldn't budge, I didn't want to do more harm than good so my new one is still on the shelf. :-(
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kevtherev
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Re: Speedo cable replacement

Post by kevtherev »

Perfect timing
I'm doing mine this weekend
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itchyfeet
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Re: Speedo cable replacement

Post by itchyfeet »

bigbadbob76 wrote:[quote="CJH I failed miserably at the above step - I simply could not get the old cable out because it appeared to be jammed in with a rubber sleeve. I didn't fancy cutting through it since I wasn't sure about the rest of the job. My new speedo cable has been on the shelf ever since.

You're not alone there CJH, I pulled and twisted but it wouldn't budge, I didn't want to do more harm than good so my new one is still on the shelf. :-([/quote]


What harm can you do, it's going in the bin anyway?
get some mole grips on it and pull hard or use the mole grips with a bit of wood packing as a fulcrum then lever

Don't forget to drip so eoil down both ends before fitting, much easier than later, I used a battery drill to spin the cable to help it work down.
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