poss vapor lock

[kevtherev]

Running as rough as box of spanners though.

interesting ...you haven't mentioned this before, that it runs rough.
Could you expand on that

[djhammy]

HI kev guess its the air getting in changing the the mixer?

[kevtherev]

OK but what are the "rough" symptoms

[ermie571]

Right...this may sound daft, but...

you both have 1.9 engines. That are fine from cold....but dodgy from hot. Are you setting the choke properly when warm? According to the instruction book, warm 1.9's should be started foot flat to the floor....somehow this controls the choke. I know in the morning I dpress the accelerator and let up slowly - this too sets the choke. (dunno how - just know I need to do it! Particularly when really cold, at which point I do it twice...Just in case )

If for example the choke was on, and the engine warm....the air mix would be wrong, it would be rough as hell, and may even conk out.....(sound familiar ) From cold, the choke is operating as it should.

just a wild stab in the dark, seeing as you have done alot of other stuff.


Em
xx

[djhammy]

HI kev just sluggish no zip. Its not doing the kangaroo dance just a lack of acceleration. You get there in the end. Like I'm towing another van.

[kevtherev]

HI kev just sluggish no zip. Its not doing the kangaroo dance just a lack of acceleration. You get there in the end. Like I'm towing another van.

Then there's a whole bag of problems you might want to eliminate for lack of power

Ignition timing
filter choked
faulty pump
uneven and or low compression
wrong gap on plugs
vacuum leak on the inlet side
Misfire due to incorrect lead attachment

use a strobe to check the timing
change the filters air and petrol
check pump delivery
compression tested
vacuum leaks are from distributor, choke pull down unit, brake servo hose, vacuum lines to distributor and airbox, gaskets (carb, manifold and head) use a carb cleaner to check
firing order 1432

[poodlefaker]

Hi Dave

MY engine bay is very hot and i also need to run hose away for direct sources. i think the water pump is playing up I've just changed my fan belt but still getting a horrible squeak on start up hopefully just the belt slipping but it's been adjusted since fitting to take account of initial stretching.

Did you find any signs of cracks in the hard plastic hose? I think you can still get this hose but wondering if i can just replace it all with one continuous length of top notch rubber hose.

Strangely I have also been getting a bit of squeal from the water pup on start up but it stops almost immediately, don`t know if its a coincidence. The van hasn`t been runnning any hotter than normal??

I checked the hard plastic hose as best I could and didnt see any signs of cracking or breakdown of the plastic. I looked into clear fuel pipe and the run from the tank to the engine bay could be run in clear, but it does not have the temperature range to use in the engine bay.

I don`t have a problem with hot starting, I don`t normally use the choke (only to cold start in the morning) Each time the engine has stalled, it has started fine just before I drive off, I get 20 to 30 yards stop at a T junction and the engine dies and wont re-start. Cranking the engine on the starter motor doesn`t seem to pull the fuel up quickly enough and I only get round it by pulling the fuel hose off the carb and sucking fuel up to prime the pump (have now ordered a hand pump ) I guess I will end up replacing the whole fuel line from tank to carb just to be sure. I notice in the Haynes that the insulating block under the fuel pump needs to be packed with grease so I will check that next in case it is the pump getting to hot.

Thanks for all the suggestions, we`ll get there in the end

Julian

[BOXY]

I looked into clear fuel pipe and the run from the tank to the engine bay could be run in clear, but it does not have the temperature range to use in the engine bay.

The petrol will also leech out the elastomers in clear PVC and make it rigid, and then it will crack pissing petrol everywhere. If you fit PVC to check for bubbles replace it as soon as the problem is solved.

[djhammy]

Will reply to threads above asap but a quick observation.

Since the temperature dropped outside I've had no problems at all. No bubbles and no cutting out after restarting. ???

Having said that i'm sure this problem started in similar weather a month back.

[NicBeeee]

Not sure if this is applicable but I was reading through my pierburg/solex manual when I stumbled upon a chapter about the float chamber breather pipe. If there is a problem with the breather mechanism then a vacuum builds up in the float chamber which tends to flood the engine. Symptoms include poor starting when engine is hot, cutting out or irregular running when hot. It also states that it is more common when the weather is warmer. Probably due to the expansion of air. Perhaps someone more knowledgable could take this a bit further forward for you.

Nick

[NicBeeee]

Dave
Is there any chance of a pick of your engine

Nick

[Mickyfin]

I notice in the Haynes that the insulating block under the fuel pump needs to be packed with grease so I will check that next in case it is the pump getting to hot.

I only just noticed this too, and have not put any grease in my new fuel pump. What type of grease should I buy? Looks like I will need a new gasket set too.

Would this be ok?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15g-Copper-Gr ... 3f0c556c2a" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Mickyfin]

Ive now purchased the above grease, so hopefully it will be fine.

[poodlefaker]

Hi All,

Likewise, no stalling in the last week or so. Wifey thinks its due to the weather cooling down but we have been in hotter weather in Europe before and had no problem. The engine has only stalled once after I fitted the non-return valve and that was over a week ago now. I took the van for a run at the weekend, got the engine up to temperature and had a look in the engine bay as soon as I got home. The fuel pump didn`t seem excessively hot (I could keep my hand on it) but I noticed the fuel line was lying on top of the coolant hose going to the carb body, this was too hot to touch so could of been passing heat into the fuel line. I re-routed the fuel line so that it does not touch it directly but now has about 2-3 cm air gap between them. May have to wait a long time for some more hot weather to test if this is really the cure.
Just as a thought, and perhaps someone can correct me if I`m wrong but when I replaced the fuel pump over a year ago the new one has a much larger diameter inlet. At the time I renewed the hose from where it comes into the engine bay to the pump with larger diameter hose. Wouldn`t this mean that fuel will pass more slowly through this pipe and also that a higher volume of fuel could be heated?

Anyway, thanks for all your thoughts and suggestions, fingers crossed, the problem is solved( may be the kiss of death writing this)

....next job is to sort out the squeeling water pump.

Cheers Julian